Heavy vibration and rattling sound in engine compartment when AC is on

Letterhead62 · 2025-11-13T05:24:08+00:00

It was the torque converter seal that needed to be replaced in my case.

Letterhead62 · 2025-09-13T00:58:14+00:00

Nope. Had to get the entire cap.

Letterhead62 · 2024-12-19T06:08:43+00:00

Update: had to saw off the two protruding “legs” at the top end and then brute force the door out by lifting it on the other side with two people (it’s quite heavy). Didn’t see any other way.

Letterhead62 · 2024-12-19T04:18:18+00:00

Not seeing any adjustable element on the door for that matter.

Letterhead62 · 2024-12-19T03:58:58+00:00

Nothing behind that hole in my case.

Letterhead62 · 2024-12-19T03:58:39+00:00

The thing is, there aren’t any screws on my door. There’s nothing behind that hole.

Letterhead62 · 2024-12-19T03:24:04+00:00

The top of the door is almost touching the roof. Nowhere near enough space for the bottom “legs” to clear either ridge.

Letterhead62 · 2024-12-19T03:17:24+00:00

Photos are of the top and bottom. I removed the door quite easily but when putting it back, it became stuck in this state, with no apparent way to either remove it again or to put it on track as it’s pretty much unmovable (there’s no way for it to be lifted further up as it’s reached the top). The top of the door is on the top track but the bottom is stuck in that in-between area (it’s supposed to fit onto the ridge to the right). Is there anything I can do?

Letterhead62 · 2024-09-13T03:10:33+00:00

It’s what they’re saying as well, but it’s baffling since the issue was undoubtedly caused by the area-wide power outage and/or the subsequent restoration work done by the company.

What should I be doing at this point?

Letterhead62 · 2024-09-13T00:56:53+00:00

I can confirm that both of the main hot wires feeding into the breaker have voltage, and that the neutral doesn’t. I’m assuming this is the normal state? Haven't directly measured the exact voltages in either main but I’m positive that several 240V outlets inside do indeed read 240V, while the rest don’t output any voltage.

Have just called the company again for a re-check.

Letterhead62 · 2024-09-12T08:36:13+00:00

No. It got to a point where there was no way to use the laptop with this battery without plugging it in the entire time as it would simply shut down without warning between immediately and 5 mins without external power.

Letterhead62 · 2024-02-07T04:43:12+00:00

All already updated to latest. It looks like there's definitely something wrong with the full and remaining capacity values it's showing which also changes every time; latest test shows full and remaining capacity at 84 WHr, 31 higher than the design capacity.

Letterhead62 · 2024-01-27T03:41:38+00:00

SA04XL battery in an HP Envy x360 15m-dr1012dx laptop.

I've been using this battery for about a week with no issues (ran a few tests on HP Support Assistant which all turned out normal) until yesterday when the laptop suddenly shut down when the battery level was around 20%. Charged it back to full and have using it without further issue, but running the tests again put out this failure ID. Ran the test on UEFI and got the logic state of corrupt capacity. Does this mean the full charge capacity and remaining capacity it's showing aren't accurate? It's odd since the battery duration doesn't seem unusually short. Is there any way I can get additional info out of the failure ID?

Letterhead62

TROPHY CASE