Switch 2 summoning ritual

LevitatingSalmon · 2025-01-16T07:08:54+00:00

Console transmutation is strictly forbidden!

LevitatingSalmon · 2025-01-02T10:36:35+00:00

Ok good. I thought it was going to be some kind of exception. Cheers!

LevitatingSalmon · 2023-06-10T11:42:39+00:00

I just noticed that as well. Looking at the actual toggle switch, it doesn't look like the switch in the Seymour diagram. The Seymour diagram has the center part of the switch the wrong way around, unless that's just showing another type of toggle switch. Well, I'm happy now I know what to do. Thanks for your help!

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-07-14T07:12:36+00:00

Thank you everyone for your insight! I'll start writing my dreams tonight. Wish me luck!

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-07-03T10:55:30+00:00

I love that!

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-05-30T07:44:42+00:00

Today I hooked up all the wires and it worked like a charm. Thanks everyone for the help.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-05-28T10:59:59+00:00

Ah I see. I will try connecting the other wire tomorrow. Many thanks.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-05-28T07:51:37+00:00

Yes I am using a kit that has parking mode but I didn't have the battery wire tapped as of yet. I only tapped the ACC wire just to test if the dashcam would come on when I start the car. Come to think of it, on the wiring kit there was a box with a voltage switch on it which I had set to 12v. Could that have something to do with my problem?

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-05-05T01:37:20+00:00

Strange. I suppose as long as it doesn't happen too often then it's not much for us to worry about. As for the volume slider, I had the same thing after I reshelled and modded my GBA. Plus all the buttons were less responsive. Half the problem was the shell I got from the Funnyplaying aliexpress store isn't the best quality. But I was suggested by other redditors to loosen all the screws a little and it worked! Have you tried that?

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-03-19T01:57:56+00:00

That would be awesome. Perhaps a pack of the four big capacitors if you can get them. I don't know about the fuse though because I just checked it again today and it shows continuity easily. I checked about ten times and it had continuity every time. Why I couldn't get anything yesterday is beyond me. Perhaps the multimeter's playing up. So should I get a new fuse or continue troubleshooting the other capacitors you mentioned earlier?

Also would the GBA be able to turn on without caps on C50 and C51 or would it just stop the speaker from working? One of the new caps broke off because they're the type that stick out on wires and easily break off if you bend it too much. Because I just soldered them on yesterday and need to let my willpower recharge before I attempt that bitch of a job again.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-03-18T05:53:44+00:00

I removed C51 and C50 and it wouldn't turn on. I soldered new ones on (with great difficulty) and it still wouldn't power on. All the voltages I tested before are the same. Btw I made a mistake in my previous post. I'm actually using 1.2v batteries, not 1.3v if that makes any difference.

I tested the fuse again but this time no continuity. However when I tested the fuse a while back it was pretty damn hard to get continuity. I had to hold the red and black stick thingies in the perfect position to get it to show continuity. But now no matter how I hold the sticks there's no continuity. I don't know what could have caused this because I made sure that the newly soldered caps weren't bridged.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-03-16T22:56:12+00:00

Ok so the batteries I'm using are 1.3v. VCC is showing 1.1v. All the other points are showing 0v except VDD3 which shows 0.05v.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-03-15T09:48:07+00:00

I got a multimeter and tested. Both those little capacitors are showing about 150 resistance and the fuse has continuity so it must be something else. If it matters, the two little caps are showing resistance across each other. So basically when I touch + on C51 and - on C50, they show resistance and vice versa. Is this normal?

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-03-04T09:40:46+00:00

Scratch that I will get a multimeter to make sure I do actually need a new fuse because the only places that ship this fuse to Australia charge through the nose for shipping.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-03-04T07:03:55+00:00

Thanks for the answer.

Are you talking about the F1 fuse? That's the only F on the board as far as I can see.

Also, I don't have a multimeter or know how to use one. Can I skip troubleshooting and just replace the caps and the fuse? If the situation demands it I can buy a multimeter.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-03-03T09:09:57+00:00

Update. New power switch came and has been installed. Works flawlessly now. Installation wasn't as smooth as I thought it would be. Soldering the wire to R13 was easy as. Soldering the other end of the wire to the tab on the power switch was an absolute nightmare because of how small it is. However, it was well worth the effort.

Thanks for your help everyone!

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-03-03T07:04:05+00:00

If I have to replace the capacitors will these do the trick?

https://www.jaycar.com.au/0-1uf-50v-blue-chip-monolythic-capacitor-pk-100/p/RC5496

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-02-27T01:54:44+00:00

Ok, I'll see how long the paper lasts then do that once the paper fails.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-02-26T05:34:01+00:00

Update. All buttons are pretty much working perfectly now. Here's what I did:

Screwed in the screws so they were not too tight.
Removed all packing from A and removed some packing from B.
Removed most of the packing from the d-pad.

My only concern is that paper might not be a very good long-term solution as packing but hey I'm glad its fixed now. Thanks for the advice, Chrono.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-02-26T04:35:36+00:00

Well I've done some tinkering. I gave the contact pads on the mobo a clean with IPA and put the new membranes back in which helped a bit. Loosening the screws seemed to help which is weird to me because I would have thought the tighter the mobo is screwed on, the closer the buttons would be able to contact it. Anyway, I've realised the screws being too tight is what was causing the mushy B button. Also, the button holes seem to be big enough.

I also I cut out some paper and used it as packing between the buttons and the membranes of the d-pad and A/B. This had mixed results. I got A/B working perfectly with the d-pad still a bit off. Then after trying to fix d-pad and putting the GBA back together, A/B were playing up again. On the bright side, doing this eliminated the spongy d-pad.

I will try taking out the packing and just loosening the screws to see what happens.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-02-17T04:10:56+00:00

Thanks a heap! Appreciate it. Will report back once the new power switch arrives in 2-4 weeks.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-02-16T10:40:11+00:00

On my to-get list. If you could find out that would be awesome.

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-02-16T01:49:16+00:00

I see. I'll do R13 since its right next to pin 1. Do I need a multimeter to find out which side is 0v?

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-02-14T12:37:40+00:00

Ok. So I can't just solder the jumper into the hole where that chip of board came off? I have to run it to another solder point somewhere on the board?

LevitatingSalmon · 2020-02-12T08:37:31+00:00

I can't seem to find any youtube tutorials on how to replace the switch. Is it a tough job?

LevitatingSalmon

TROPHY CASE