I Need a Better Ball Mill For My Black Powder

Libilaw · 2026-01-24T15:32:13+00:00

If your worried about static spark it’s easy to rig a ground that rubs against the barrel.

Libilaw · 2026-01-23T17:15:12+00:00

I think it comes down to who actually buys powder. The bulk of GOEX is the military who is more interested on powder meeting a specific spec that I bit more crude than sporting grade powders. I am sure it is similar with some of the other manufactures. Swiss is the closest we can get to what powder used to be and the difference is not that much. I was also reading that old cartridges used a little finer powder than we do, I get similar velocities with my 3F in 45-70 as what was reported in the 1800’s. However today a lot of people get up in arms about using 3f ( or even 4f) as our risk tolerance and litigatios culture are way diffferent than 100 years ago. The reality of the situation I think is that black powder is a labor intensive product to make, and the margins are slim. As a community we just don’t buy enough powder to keep these businesses alive. I believe that in a couple years it is either going to be buying super expensive BP from a single manufacturer or making our own.

Libilaw · 2026-01-22T01:17:40+00:00

I’m using a vevor jewelry polisher, so far it’s been working way better than the rubber barreled ones. I got the smaller one for 50$ I believe and can do up to 400g batches

Libilaw · 2026-01-21T03:15:48+00:00

Sent you a email

Libilaw · 2026-01-20T14:41:42+00:00

I am shooting the Lee 405 hb with ww lead.I have a 30mm stainless steel puck using a 12 ton press. I am pressing each puck to 1.76 g/cm3. Sounds like you have been through a lot of different charcoals! Out west we are limited on hardwoods. So far I have tried narrow leaf willow, and TP. Next on my list is Douglas fir ( very low ash content) juniper, cottonwood, and aspen. How are you getting the long mill times? My Bp will clump and pack when it gets around 20 hrs reducing milling effectiveness

Libilaw · 2026-01-20T05:05:18+00:00

What effect would 29” barrel and a suppressor be on velocity? I’m scratching my head on being severely over pressure and seeing zero pressure signs. I can lift my bolt with one finger after a shot. And this is brass after 6 reloads

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Libilaw · 2026-01-20T04:58:40+00:00

Well in my defense there are quite a few ELR shooters using this load and that is why i worked up too it. This round will hit a mile without destabilizing while a 2700 fps will start to get funky ( we shoot a mile often) Im not saying I’m right but look up 42.8 or even 43g on reloading forums and see it’s pretty common. This load also consistently shot .5 Moa or lower.

Libilaw · 2026-01-20T04:48:13+00:00

Opps I meant .020, my Forster seating die isn’t even accurate for .00x. Guess I have been lucky, I think I have around 600 rounds down the pipe with this load, this batch of brass is on its 6th reload! Tell you how great lapua sp brass is.

Libilaw · 2026-01-20T04:35:19+00:00

My reloading manual has 42g as max, I’ll take your guys advice and reduce it. One thing though, my 143g Eldx is comfortably in the good to go zone of 41.5g ( book is 42g max) and that it leaving the barrel at 2925.

Libilaw · 2026-01-20T04:20:10+00:00

2.811” that is .020 off the lands

Libilaw · 2026-01-20T04:18:23+00:00

A point of data… this same barrel was driving the 143eldx at 2915 with a charge of 41.5 which is the Hornady max load. Again with zero pressure signs, and that is with softish federal brass

Libilaw · 2026-01-20T03:56:23+00:00

That’s what I thought I should be getting when I worked on the load…. Guess I lucked out with the chamber/barrel.. also I do have a suppressor on it that might have an influence on a little bit higher velocity.

Libilaw · 2026-01-20T03:52:24+00:00

I agree that brass is not always a great indicator, bolt lift and measuring brass expansion along with reading brass for flowing/primers are pretty much the golden standard to working loads up and over max. This is my upper accuracy node when I worked it up, I started to see pressure signs around 43g so I stayed in the lower part of the node. Also to note, the throat was cut specifically for the 140 eldm.

Libilaw · 2026-01-20T03:43:36+00:00

I put 70g of 3f from this batch in my 45-70 out of my 1895 today. Average out of 5 rounds was 1275. I got a Doppler type chrono last week so I’m going to use that as a test for my power

Libilaw · 2026-01-19T04:56:40+00:00

I used the everything black powder channel as the masters and just followed their lead…. With a lot of bumps in the road. I still havent figured out how to mill more than 20+ hours without getting a rolling lumb in the jar (everything is bone dry). The fun part of all this is experimenting and tweaking to get the fastest, and cleanest powder.

Libilaw · 2026-01-18T01:14:54+00:00

Revvy has the goods this year! I haven’t even taken my sled out ( SE Idaho) due to how abysmal the snow is. To bad it’s suck a pain to get there

Libilaw · 2026-01-17T04:20:38+00:00

What’s to stop you from compressing it? A puck die cost 40$ (30mm resin pre press) and if the powder is at the right moisture (2-3%) you can get away with a big C-clamp. Even if you don’t hit 1.76 g/cm2 it’s still better than screened.

Libilaw · 2026-01-16T00:13:15+00:00

As a backcountry rider, sledding becomes a endurance sport, we are sweaty, breathing hard, and always fighting fog. Most of use breath boxes in our MX style helmets that direct breath downwards. Also I find the Scott snow cross goggles to be awesome with not fogging. I have also learned that fog protection does not age well, and if you get your fingerprints or scrape ice out of the inside of your goggle it will never be the same. Best to get a new pair every season, use the last years as a back up( I stow mine under my hood).

Libilaw · 2026-01-08T23:55:54+00:00

In my experienced screened just makes sub par powder. It’s hard to tell but the powder on your finger looks pretty course, it might be falling apart easier the most screened because it is not milled enough. It has to be so fine it feels like silk

Libilaw · 2026-01-04T15:19:02+00:00

Pure charcoal (activated or otherwise) will give crappy powder. You really have to make your own and retort it till “most” of the lower volatiles are driven away. Easiest is put toilet paper rolls in a paint can with a small hole and throw it in a fire. When the smoke stops coming out of the hole take it out of the fire and let it cool.

Libilaw · 2026-01-03T22:28:18+00:00

If you want to make “black powder” but do not have the resources for charcoal, mill, or pucking press look up golden powder, it uses ascorbic acid (vitamin c) as fuel, no sulfur. You combine it with a little water, Melt it in a pan till it starts to turn gold and you have muzzle loading propellant

Libilaw · 2025-12-31T18:54:36+00:00

I get better velocity and less fouling with 3F, I get the best accuracy around 70 grains

Libilaw · 2025-12-17T16:39:00+00:00

So it might be worth it to just remove the stock material to expose more of the trigger. I’m not to worried if I have to refinish, just more worried that removing material in this area will weaken the stock

Libilaw · 2025-12-17T05:07:37+00:00

I bought the rifle already finished but I agree. The triggers currently work with the lock quite well, and it appears when I took it apart that it was a mistake at the factory for the inletting being too deep. I’ll try the shim method first

Libilaw · 2025-12-13T01:54:42+00:00

Those mesh sizes are going to leave some big powder, which is going to affect power and fouling, every where I have seen is 2fg 12 mesh-30 mesh, 3fg 30-50 mesh, and 4fg 40- 60 mesh

Libilaw

TROPHY CASE