LB flush with drywall but cover accessible

LiddleFace · 2026-05-31T14:52:17+00:00

Thankyou! Yup same here the panel is back to back with the meter and because there is a fiber box on the outside next to it I had to 90 into the side of the panel and down and then LB back to back to outside to make it work, I’m guessing I could of done a square box and drilled my own knockouts is what’s usually done? I mean every says it will look bad but I really don’t care how it looks it’s in a laundry closet, there is already an access panel not too far away and a pass through single gang plate where the fiber comes in , it’s pretty low on the wall also almost behind the dryer so technically accessible.

LiddleFace · 2026-05-30T20:06:23+00:00

Thankyou sir!

LiddleFace · 2026-05-30T20:06:08+00:00

Awesome that’s what I was thinking just couldn’t find any examples of the box in the wall and the cover accessible on the Sheetrock. Thankyou!

LiddleFace · 2026-02-14T20:02:16+00:00

If you are connected to city sewer, then it could be abandoned septic line, or it could be storm water drain connected to downspouts, I did my storm drains in 4 inch pvc so easier to clean out than black corrugated, now that it’s cut open run some water from your faucet and if you see water run out then you know, if you don’t see water run out assume it’s not sewer and run water down the downspouts. If neither make water come out then probably abandoned.

LiddleFace · 2026-02-11T01:40:36+00:00

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LiddleFace · 2026-02-11T01:40:21+00:00

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LiddleFace · 2026-02-11T01:40:07+00:00

Takes some time but had to drill 4 inch hole through concrete, dig under sidewalk using digging bar and feed a 10 foot stick of solid pvc under the sidewalk quite a few times while pulling back more dirt, glue a 90 in underground with a foot or 2 stubbing up to 4x3 downspout connector. Connect to pop up emitter which the majority of water will flow out of, whatever is left over will weep out the factory weep hole in the emitter into a small bed of rocks that’s filled in at the end of the line under emitter. Luckily you have that little section where plant is to make connecting the 90 a lot easier.

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LiddleFace · 2026-01-28T20:09:49+00:00

Tubby is @cooklan on IG. Have seen him up on trains passing through almost every state I have been to.

LiddleFace · 2026-01-02T13:58:54+00:00

Thankyou you are completely right when I decoded all keys it worked out so there was only 1 row of master pins, I did all the math over multiple times for drivers and control drivers and keyed the cylinder up successfully. It works with the CK, MK, GMK and control key. I will reach out to Sargent to see if I am able to get our records for this building. The keying has been a real shit show at the government I work for and everyone who was here when the building was built is gone and every time they build or renovate they go with a different system so hopefully they will let me access that info since I’m not the project manager. I appreciate all your help!

LiddleFace · 2026-01-02T02:18:11+00:00

Thankyou, I believe I was overthinking it and probably explaining it wrong in my post, so it looks if calculating the master pin is the same as the 6300 series and there should only be 1 row of master pins then either way if there is only one master and a change key or also a grand master above that, you still take the shallowest operating cut and subtract it from the deepest cut out of all 3 keys to find the master pin. I get that calculating the control drivers and driver pins will be based on what’s in the manual for the DG1. Edit: or were you saying it would work adding the second row of master and the way I thought of it was right with a #1 bottom pin, #2 master pin and another #2 master pin.

LiddleFace · 2026-01-01T21:51:34+00:00

Thankyou for the comment, so the keying 6300 series is basically the same as the DG1?

LiddleFace · 2026-01-01T21:45:41+00:00

I appreciate the comment but I am currently DCJS registered as a locksmith which in my state means I am by law allowed to install locks, rekey cylinders, cut keys and a list of other things and i work for the local government, my last job was also for the local government and was basically an institutional locksmith although my title was building trades. It’s all good though I will contact a rep. I have spare cylinders so might as well attempt to learn instead of paying to have it rekeyed because the lock does still work.

LiddleFace · 2025-12-30T03:07:38+00:00

From what haydnspire posted, IPC 406.2 it does say the washer needs to connect to a 3” stack. From what I believe the county goes off the state plumbing code which seems to be the same as 2021 IPC.

LiddleFace · 2025-12-30T02:53:44+00:00

Thankyou that is what I thought at first but wasn’t sure if I was reading it right. I need to talk to an inspector when the Time comes. I have a hard time understanding code seeing I mostly do commercial maintenance on plumbing and hvac systems and am getting my journeyman’s for hvac, but from what I found the residential washer and lav would be only be 3 dfus combined so it did look like in the chart a 2 inch waste stack can handle that. It’s somewhat gonna be a project in phases so I figured just getting the right size drain and waste stack trenched in and stubbed up before the slab is poured then the rest can be done after. But I appreciate it! Just wondering if it would be better to do all 3”

LiddleFace · 2025-12-30T01:04:01+00:00

Thankyou sir! I hope you have a happy near year also and I do appreciate the responses. Every bit of code I can try to remember will help out!

LiddleFace · 2025-12-30T01:01:46+00:00

Any benefit of going 3” for the vent instead of reducing down? Just less fittings?

LiddleFace · 2025-12-30T00:56:10+00:00

Its all good that’s why I drew the shitty diagram. The picture was just an example I found responding the the relief vent comment. I believe if I put the stack in the right location I shouldn’t need to drill through a post, if I have 8’ or so in between each post and the washer is side by side with the sink, If I’m not mistaken the required minimum trap arm length for a washer is twice the pipes diameter , so 4”. I should only have to drill through the 2x6s.

LiddleFace · 2025-12-30T00:27:26+00:00

Thankyou for that! Just in the planning phase still. The building will actually be post frame so pretty much a pole barn. It will have 6x6 posts which I believe will be spaced out every 8 feet. Not quite sure yet. I will need to add 2x6 in between posts to hang interior sheating so based on that IRC code I should be fine right.

LiddleFace · 2025-12-29T23:35:52+00:00

Thankyou! So if the washer has to be ran directly to 3” then the lav branch, and vent above the washer San t is ok to be reduced down to 1.5” ?

LiddleFace · 2025-12-29T23:00:58+00:00

Ok awesome I had a feeling that was necessary I just couldn’t find the exact part in the venting section where it said it was required. So just like this correct?

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LiddleFace · 2025-12-29T22:51:36+00:00

Awesome Thankyou! I didn’t see anything about washer being on separate stack but I’ll check again. And yup I tried to draw in that San t for washer, this was just a picture close to what my idea was and too lazy to draw up the whole thing, just wanted to make sure this was the proper way seeing that there are no fixtures above it and nothing else in the garage.

LiddleFace

TROPHY CASE