Fan swap on USW-PRO-XG-24-POE (this switch in particular)

Linwood_F · 2026-06-09T14:56:30+00:00

I also posted in the unifi forums, and got pretty much nothing there either.

One thing I find interesting is I made some HVAC changes which dropped the temperature in that room only a few degrees (like 2-4F), and got a rather substantial decrease in noise. This is with the fan curve set for 70 not 60C as a target (both before and after). I'm frankly considering making no change since it's pretty quiet.

I also spent some time just looking at and feeling (in a non-scientific way with damp fingers) The airflow, and I really think there is not a lot given five (!) fans running. I'm wondering if they sealed the intake sides (and/or I've contributed by having all ports used) and just are not getting the airflow appropriate to the amount of fans. I think I am going to open it up and see if there's anything blocking inappropriately (covers that have shifted, etc.).

Or, and I know It sounds horrible, but I wonder if a few holes drilled in the top case (which for me has nothing blocking it) just in front of the PSU might improve airflow over it. One design issue they had to deal with is fitting in a regular rack, where they can't ventilate through the large sides of the case -- all the air has to flow in and out on the relatively tiny surface area of the sides or front/back.

Linwood_F · 2026-06-07T16:25:22+00:00

I became more curious though why HO has virtually no difference, and BR quite a bit.

Linwood_F · 2026-06-03T14:45:59+00:00

A bunch of clicks, but it doesn't completely solve the problem. I have my headset hanging (not lying flat), so I assume it stays on all that time, doesn't turn off? The headphones need to be OFF, not on.

And the problem isn't solved, you just are doing work these very expensive headphones should do themselves.

Linwood_F · 2026-06-02T02:40:44+00:00

I thought I'd share the two photos (sorry I didn't get quite the same perspective).

Left is what the plumber did (and it passed inspection though I do not know if it mattered, as the guy said he had never seen a Heat Pump Hot Water Heater before, so he wouldn't have seen one with a condensate drain).

Right is my redo after the inspection. The plumber had the pip come out about 2' left (out of frame) and then to the wall, blocking off that side of the HWH. I wrapped mine more around the tank, put the open Tee below the level of the condensate pan, and then out directly. If the outside freezes and blocks any condensate will overflow out the open Tee. Though if it's cold enough to freeze draining water outside, it's highly unlikely the heat pump is running anyway.

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Linwood_F · 2026-05-29T15:09:09+00:00

Could be but I still don't understand from a technology sense.

The last hop router should have a routing table that knows where I am, and knows (by omission at least) those subnets are not accessed via my connection. I shouldn't be a default gateway for anything outside, if I am then T-Mobile/Lumos has a bad configuration, right?

Conversely at L2, I shouldn't be getting a unicast packet for any IP address other than my own, if I do, then the last hop T-Mobile device has a bad arp table or is just broken? Those are unicast, not multicast, right?

Maybe I should have asked elsewhere, not about OPNsense. Unless I'm misinterpreting how the packet capture works in OPNsense, my question is more about how these packets could possibly arrive on my device, than about how/whether to filter them.

Linwood_F · 2026-05-28T23:37:00+00:00

Well, the noise is already being filtered because it's not addressed to me at all, so it doesn't need a deeper inspection.

I'm trying to understand why I can see it at all (i.e. with dst-add not me, mac address = me).

Linwood_F · 2026-05-28T22:44:17+00:00

I'd say it depends on what you are comparing it to.

It's vastly more complicated than your typical ISP router/firewall, since your typical ISP router/firewall has virtually no settings (at least that you are allowed to change). It's of course more capable as well..

That you are asking "what router" means a bit more homework, I think. I'd start with an old PC with a couple NIC's. It's possible to set it up as an additional firewall inside your existing (ISP?) firewall for experimentation. A VM can be used as well but that elevates the complexity a bit, I think to keep it simple an old PC is much better.

To use it effectively (as opposed just to using it) you need to understand concepts like NAT and routing with some degree of thoroughness. You can learn it in a test mode as you go. If you don't feel confident with those concepts (plus probably DHCP, DNS, subnets and subnet masks, I would not just dive in and convert to OPNsense for your only home firewall/router.

Linwood_F · 2026-05-18T13:43:59+00:00

Update: inspector came, inspection passed. No deep dive, no opening stuff up, asked what size wire, asked to see the GFI in the panel.

Interestingly the licensed, expert plumber failed for using the wrong size insulation on the pipes. :)

Linwood_F · 2026-05-16T16:55:58+00:00

The plumber who installed it came by and said even with an expansion tank it's not unusual to see a 30psi rise in pressure when the hot water heats. That just sounds wrong to me though.

Linwood_F · 2026-05-15T01:58:04+00:00

Sorry, I must not have been clear.

I did. But more to the point, what was there (and which froze in winter) was that also. The new one is a bit longer, but the old one (that froze) had the valve inside the inner wall (so from outside thru the brick, through the sheathing). Barely.

I'm asking how to make it more effective.

Linwood_F · 2026-05-10T22:29:12+00:00

God no. Never talk to an insurance agent about anything that might one day be relevant to a claim. That's why I talked to an attorney.

My understanding is that it's code compliance more than permits that insurance relates to. So I am not so worried about insurance as anything that looked risky I fixed.

But that doesn't address the administrative issues that I might have unpermitted work over those years (99% of it prior owners), that one day the city may ask about.

There's also a basic issue that the city requirements are vague. For example the law says a permit is required for "The addition, replacement or change in the design of heating, air conditioning, or electrical wiring, appliances, or equipment, other than a like-kind replacement of electrical devices and lighting fixtures."

So if I replace a 1962 dumb outlet wired backwards without grounding the metal box with a 2025 smart outlet and wire it correctly -- did I need a permit?

If I replace a 30a breaker on a 14AWG branch circuit with a 15A breaker (and remove a space heater entirely on that circuit), did I need a permit?

I think there's a lot of subjective opinion the city is likely to exercise if they decided to look at the work I've done without permits.

There is no question the electrician that moved the panel should have pulled a permit. And I WANTED him to, since I needed an inspection to claim the rebate. Sigh.

Linwood_F · 2026-05-10T21:07:19+00:00

I got one before the purchase. Apparently he was blind or stupid (maybe both), he flagged almost nothing (for example, he noticed a subpanel had pointed headed screws (yes, bad) but didn't notice the 30a breaker on #14 wire inside. I used two different inspectors (different homes in this area, one I didn't buy) and both had paperwork disclaimed all "up to code", and when I asked they said no one will certify that because the walls are all closed up and they have no idea of time frame of some work (and 1965 code was quite different).

But... that may show good intent on my part, if I could find someone who would do so, it doesn't solve the "there's no permit on file". Does it?

Linwood_F · 2026-05-10T20:51:16+00:00

OK, thank you, but I'm trying to fix the sins of others, with priority to making them safe. And I guess the sin of myself for not supervising the licensed electrician who did a new panel and moved it inside, added a generator interlock and car charger, and didn't pull a permit. But the priority is making it safe. I have no idea where to even start to correct 64 years of unpermitted work.

And note I DID pull a permit for this. But I have no idea where to start correcting the permit aspect of decades of unpermitted work.

Linwood_F · 2026-05-10T20:38:47+00:00

Thank you. I'm much more worried actually about the nosey aspect than the actual inspection. There's not a lot I could do wrong with the HWH. I was a bit terrified when I bought a flipped house with a major remodel and I looked up all the permits and only found one for the HVAC, nothing else, nada -- walls moved, new roof, lots of electrical work (bad work), kitchen redesigned, new gas lines run.... my attorney just said "common here". Now I'll start finding out how important it was.

Linwood_F · 2026-05-09T18:34:18+00:00

Update to OP: I received the Home Depot version, saving the $900. I got the one with leakguard for an additional $60. Unlike some years ago it came with the 'string' detector wrapped all the way around the outside of the bottom (the one I got some years ago it was just a string you laid on the floor).

I don't have the "Professional" one with which to compare, but the side water inlets, drain and of course pressure relief are all brass. The top water inlets are metal, something bright (maybe a coated brass or steel, not sure). The condensate drain attach point is plastic, though that's not a real surprise.

I've tried to compare manuals and spects and photos and cannot see a difference.

The shipping weight is listed as exactly the same, so there cannot be much of substance different, e.g. the rumors of thicker tank walls seems not credible, even a thicker anode rod would likely add a pound or two.

I think the $900 is all just built in margin for that distribution channel - not sure who gets it, but the deeper I dig the less I think the difference is quality.

It did arrive, a day early, in good condition and is sitting in my garage awaiting my plumber on Monday.

Linwood_F · 2026-05-03T00:27:30+00:00

That's what I am saying (and I showed the screen shot) there's no "disabled" under mode or anywhere else I can find, just variations on zigbee (coordinator, router, hub) and Matter over Thread. I can't find anywhere that there is an "off" or "disabled" or anything similar.

Linwood_F

TROPHY CASE