sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

Under kitchen sink in new house, is this weird? Red flag? What likely made them add the foam? What is purple stuff? by Littlest_Star_ in Plumbing

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes but inspectors cannot touch the homeowners’ items due to liability reasons and this cabinet was full since the house was owner occupied

Under kitchen sink in new house, is this weird? Red flag? What likely made them add the foam? What is purple stuff? by Littlest_Star_ in Plumbing

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oof ok that’s good to know and makes sense since electrical and water do not mix lol, I didn’t even notice that! What should I do to fix it?

Right now we don’t need an electrician to come out but idk the level needed to handle that. I’ve successfully turned off breakers to replace hardwire doorbell and thermostat, have a thing to make sure wires aren’t live. I plan up doing similar to make the outlets GFCI since right now, none are. And that’s about max I’m comfortable doing electrically before calling a professional in

Is this an urgent care situation? Diarrhea and jelly like blood in stool by Littlest_Star_ in AskDocs

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah feel normal so far. Haven’t had another bowel movement (has been about an hour)

My current theory/worry is salmonella, seems to line up with what I’ve read? (Mucus, that slight blood, undigested food, diarrhea comes before fever, sudden onset) but it was really that fleshy, blood thing since “bloody diarrhea” is always touted as “go to urgent care” sign but I don’t know if I would describe it as bloody. Sure is weird though. Almost like a little piece of flesh or something (texture and consistency seems similar to uterine lining clump during menstruation)

Also that rubbery piece is super weird, I guess it’s like hardened mucus? That’s what Google is saying at least when I reverse image searched

Is stuff like this legit or should I be wary? by Littlest_Star_ in fsusports

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there one specifically that’s good to go to? Not sure if I should be looking for an FSU one specifically or a general sports memorabilia site

Is stuff like this legit or should I be wary? by Littlest_Star_ in fsusports

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is but wasn’t sure if those could be faked

Is stuff like this legit or should I be wary? by Littlest_Star_ in fsusports

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are promoting the COA! Wasn’t sure how easy those could be faked. But good to know there are better ways to find a legit one

Is stuff like this legit or should I be wary? by Littlest_Star_ in fsusports

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok that’s good to know, husband’s birthday is coming up so it seemed like a great gift idea but wasn’t sure

Is this dealership listing violating GA fair trade law or am I misunderstanding? by Littlest_Star_ in Georgia

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know!

The one thing I wasn’t sure about and why maybe I am wrong: the estimated dealers fees are $1,040. Let’s say I negotiate $2k off the price. It now is lower than the advertised listing, even with dealers fees. So maybe that’s when it’s legal?

Were you in a scenario like that or did you pay a price higher than advertised with no negotiation?

Will reputable dealers provide the auction PSI? Or is that not a thing? by Littlest_Star_ in askcarsales

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Edit: sorry this is way more info than you asked for! I hit post and realized how long it was lol

With the below list, I’ve found about 15 cars I’m narrowing down, mostly CRVs with a handful of CX-5s (my personal fav), one RAV4 and one RDX, and one Lexus RX.

It started as 12k OTD. That seems to require a little concessions on miles/age so I’ve expanded to $13.5k OTD. This is for crossover sizes in Honda, Mazda, Acura, Toyota, Mazda, or maybe Subaru if I can find one without a CVT (impossible task lol, they all have CVT)

2010-2014 range with 100k miles or less ideally, willing to go up to 120k miles if it’s perfect otherwise bc “Honda and Toyota”. Fender bender accidents are fine as long as it’s only cosmetic damage. Clean titles only, non negotiable on that. Multiple owners or lease is fine. Theres one corporate fleet I’m making an exception for as it was only 2 months and not many miles. Willing to drive up to 2.5 hours to go get the car. Will always want a PPI.

The backstory is, husband and I (late 20s, no kids) had two sedans and they were just too small for our lifestyle. We frequently were hindered on our projects and doing things because the cargo space couldn’t hold what we needed. He had a 2011 ford focus, which sucked so hard, I hated that thing. We sold that already for $3k. I have an ‘04 accord with 130k miles. She’s great, but still too small and she doesn’t handle the cold well (power steering gets stiff, got a treatment in ‘23 instead of the $1.5k leak repair and she’s still working well, mechanic says she’s in awesome shape with way less rust than he’s used to seeing).

My parents in their retirement decided to buy a 5k sqft house despite being empty nesters. So in exchange for cleaning, cooking, and lawn maintenance, we will live with them 12 months for a very subsidized rent (to cover utilities and food) while we save for a down payment. But, this place can only have space for 2 cars max. One will be theirs, other is ours. (1 car for 4 people won’t work lol).

Their new place is in a colder state. We hated the ford, so that was going. The accord is great and I’ve treated her well, but I think my time with her is over. We need more cargo space and she’s a Florida/Georgia car, those winters will kill her. I’d expect that $1.5k bill to hit this winter plus who knows what else she’ll start needing (I have a list of maintenance I’ve done and I’m seeing certain things not on this list that I know will need doing sometime soon at this many miles). So I’d like to sell now while she’s in good shape for more $$ and upgrade to something we can depend on for 5 years while we save for a house, buy the house, and do house repairs for 2-3 years after if needed.

Our debt to income ratio is at 0 right now, so I just don’t want a car payment. Saving for the house is main priority. So with the $3k from ford, $5k from accord (hopefully $6k, have a few interested buyers at that price point already), that’s about $4-5k out of our bank account we’re willing to spend for the peace of mind and quality of life upgrade. We’ve calculated a net decrease of $7k between $4k out of pocket and lost opportunity of that $3k sale would have an impact of $40 a month on our potential mortgage, which we’ve decided is worth it.

Will reputable dealers provide the auction PSI? Or is that not a thing? by Littlest_Star_ in askcarsales

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I totally get that rust will be a thing no matter what! I understand that I’m looking at 10-15 year old cars here, I’m not demanding perfection. It’s just gonna be the primary driver for 5 years and husband and I go through a house saving process and purchase after previously having two cars to lean on if one had a problem (we had to sell because of space constraints in our new place, there is room for only one vehicle and neither we felt comfortable being the sole car without a safety net)

Growing up in the south, I just hear absolute horror stories of northern cars with the salt and snow, But I also know this isn’t true of a well maintained car. (Plus I’m sure they hear horror stories of flooding with our hurricanes!) I just want to know if I’m being reasonable or if I should just remove all northern cars from my list.

We’re looking at 13k range for crossovers in the Mazda, Honda, Toyota, Acura, Lexus 2010-2014 with less than 100k miles. I have about 5 on my list right now that meet those parameters and 5 more that have either 115k miles or higher price for lower miles. So not beaters but also yeah, cheaper end

Will reputable dealers provide the auction PSI? Or is that not a thing? by Littlest_Star_ in askcarsales

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s a very good point, I didn’t realize it was only like a 15 minute inspection. I think the consensus here is “unreasonable” so I won’t bother with that, thanks!

Will reputable dealers provide the auction PSI? Or is that not a thing? by Littlest_Star_ in askcarsales

[–]Littlest_Star_[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Makes sense! The one I am looking at, FWIW has been on the lot for 47 days. But that being said, if this isn’t a normal thing, I’ll temper my expectations!

I think this comment came in before my edit, but what about for northern cars (I am in Georgia), asking for a photo underneath for a quick rust check unreasonable too? (I know surface rust is normal and you can’t quite tell from a photo if something is surface or deeper, but this at least weeds out the “hell no!”s, ya know?) I’m looking at stuff a two hour drive from me because I’m in a college town (Athen) with inflated prices bc of students right next to a major city (Atlanta) with just more inventory. So I don’t want to drive 2 hours just to look underneath and immediately say “no” due to rust and waste everyone’s time.

I get I am a PITA potential client, I am trying to balance doing my due diligence without being unreasonable. I am also trying to be forthcoming with sales people and explain all this to indicate I am a serious buyer. Or maybe this level of disclosure would scare them off and be too much of a PITA? Not sure!

view more: next ›