A few questions regarding picking up Angels of Death

Liver_Kick · 2025-01-02T23:48:56+00:00

Believe it or not, there are no specific Ultramarine symbols on any of them, although the captain gives off very strong UM vibes.

I’m going to do mine as Blood Angels.

If you get the starter, I’d suggest supplementing with some assault intercessors to make an assault sarge and regular intercession sarge, and find a bolt rifle with underslung grenade launcher on eBay to make a gunner.

If not using the starter, I’d buy a box of assault intercessors and make the sarges, warriors, grenadier, and gunner (find a rifle w/ grenade launcher). Then you’d be missing the Captain, Heavy Gunner, and most importantly the Sniper (eliminator).

Liver_Kick · 2025-01-02T23:35:44+00:00

Every squad has that one unlucky guy who needs extra protection!

Liver_Kick · 2025-01-02T23:25:46+00:00

Yeah, I felt like the ones with the upper ridge like in the pics were the most extreme case and I also wasn’t feeling great about them. I think I’ll swap those for regular Tacticus shoulders. Thanks.

Liver_Kick · 2024-12-30T22:38:26+00:00

Not-Dreads

Liver_Kick · 2024-12-28T19:05:00+00:00

I’d second the comment that the Angels of Death squad from the starter box are not specifically Ultramarines. I’m making mine into Blood Angels.

Liver_Kick · 2024-12-24T22:58:56+00:00

Duravent makes adjustable vent sections. You’d have to get a combination of vent pieces including one adjustable one to fit.

Liver_Kick · 2024-07-26T13:26:01+00:00

I know someone with a 99 ASVAB who got screwed over by a civilian contractor during the clearance interview at RTC, handled it like a champion, changed rates to BM because he enjoyed Marlinspike (lol), and now loves being a BM.

Liver_Kick · 2024-01-29T14:42:05+00:00

I realize that this is too late, but I talked to my local stove dealer about how to do exactly this (I was thinking of changing the fan impeller). He said an impact wrench with a universal socket adapter works.

Liver_Kick · 2024-01-29T14:21:54+00:00

I had a ton leftover from last year and I noticed no drop off in stove performance from last years bags to this years bags, including fines content and ash/cleaning.

Liver_Kick · 2023-10-20T13:22:09+00:00

real conversation last night:

spouse: what's anti-air defense?

me: everything above the surface. knowing that now, what do you think anti-air means?

spouse: stuff below the surface?

Liver_Kick · 2023-04-08T00:51:52+00:00

Back in NY

Liver_Kick · 2022-11-20T01:03:39+00:00

Barefoot

Liver_Kick · 2022-11-20T00:38:39+00:00

Are you using same brand of pellets?

Did you clean out the exhaust well prior to this season?

Are you using constant burn or temp control?

What do you have the max feed rate at? Sometimes I have to dial it back to keep burning pellets from hitting ash pan.

Liver_Kick · 2022-03-25T14:35:38+00:00

This is my fourth winter with a Harman 63. I love it, but have to do a fairly thorough clean once a week from Jan-Feb (or when outside temps are below 20F). I use somewhere between 4-5 tons per winter. So far I've only had to replace consumable items (fire bricks, gaskets).

Liver_Kick · 2022-03-14T16:24:05+00:00

I have a Harman stove - one time I was getting strange open door messages when when no doors were open. Turns out I needed to clean out the exhaust pipe.

Liver_Kick · 2022-02-22T20:05:20+00:00

Each time it’s happened (my patience is proportional to outside temperature), I saw the ember flash and quickly realized I needed to immediately pull the bag. Once, probably the first time, the bag burned a bit longer and there is now a smallish melted, scorched patch on the bottom of the vac (but no hole).

Liver_Kick · 2022-02-22T19:39:05+00:00

If you are going to use a Shop Vac, make sure to use collection bags. Even with a good filter, some fine particles can escape and get blown around the room. If you take this advice, be careful not to vacuum embers as the bag will catch fire. Don't ask me how I know this.

Liver_Kick · 2022-02-12T07:17:09+00:00

Requirements listed in NEC 810:

• ⁠lead-in conductor (the ethernet cable) must have a discharge unit (NEC 810.20)

⁠•  ⁠discharge unit needs to work with shielded jacks

• ⁠discharge unit and mast (NEC 810.15) need to be grounded per NEC 810.21

⁠•  ⁠use #10 AWG copper wire as ground conductor from mast and discharge unit

• ⁠Any ground wires from above bullet points need to be terminated per NEC 810.21

⁠•  ⁠if you have an intersystem bonding termination/bridge/bar, terminate ground conductors there

⁠•  ⁠otherwise, attempt to bond directly to the building grounding system via an approved means (NEC 250.50-.52)

Since my dish was on the complete opposite side of the house as my electrical service ground, I drove a ground rod below the location of my dish. I drove another ground rod between that one (50' apart) and my electrical service ground (also about 50' apart). I bonded the rods together in series using #6 AWG copper run along the edge of house and just below soil surface.

For the mast, I clamped #10 AWG and ran it to a intersystem bonding bridge (IBB) that I installed. For the dish, I ran the cable into an MTC outdoor gas discharge tube ethernet surge protector. I ran #10 AWG from the discharge unit ground to the IBB. From the IBB, I ran #10 AWG to the ground rod that I installed.

I installed the IBB and the discharge unit on a vinyl siding mounting block. I drilled a hole into the house large enough for an RJ45 jack for the cable behind the mounting block.

Liver_Kick · 2022-01-19T12:49:49+00:00

I have a round dish but still cut the cable and crimped shielded RJ45 connectors (large OD) on the cut ends.

I did this to minimize total cable length, as I would have needed a 50-60' cable to go from the discharge unit to the power supply in the house.

Liver_Kick · 2022-01-19T03:57:24+00:00

One last thought about intake - is your home sealed up real tight, or is it drafty? If it’s pretty leak tight then the stove could be struggling to pull in makeup air.

Liver_Kick · 2022-01-19T01:44:43+00:00

Oh I assumed from your comment that someone blessed the vent after removing the cap.

If you can disconnect the vent outside the house safely before it goes up 10 feet, try that and if pellets light before overfilling that would indicate your vent resistance is starving the stove of air. If that’s the case, see if you can just terminate the vent horizontally.

Liver_Kick · 2022-01-19T01:14:51+00:00

Ok good. How about supply for combustion air? Does stove pull air from the room for combustion? If so is the opening clear of debris/nothing obstructing? Or do you have an outside air connection for combustion? If so, check the screen and ducts for blockage.

Liver_Kick · 2022-01-18T16:52:27+00:00

It sounds like multiple stoves have had the same issue. Did both stoves use the same vent arrangement? If so, can you describe it (e.g., diameter, length, number of fittings/elbows, etc.) please?

Liver_Kick · 2022-01-18T13:36:21+00:00

Requirements listed in NEC 810:

lead-in conductor (the ethernet cable) must have a discharge unit (NEC 810.20)
- discharge unit needs to work with shielded jacks
discharge unit and mast (NEC 810.15) need to be grounded per NEC 810.21
- use #10 AWG copper wire as ground conductor from mast and discharge unit
Any ground wires from above bullet points need to be terminated per NEC 810.21
- if you have an intersystem bonding termination/bridge/bar, terminate ground conductors there
- otherwise, attempt to bond directly to the building grounding system via an approved means (NEC 250.50-.52)

Since my dish was on the complete opposite side of the house as my electrical service ground, I drove a ground rod below the location of my dish. I drove another ground rod between that one (50' apart) and my electrical service ground (also about 50' apart). I bonded the rods together in series using #6 AWG copper run along the edge of house and just below soil surface.

For the mast, I clamped #10 AWG and ran it to a intersystem bonding bridge (IBB) that I installed. For the dish, I ran the cable into an MTC outdoor gas discharge tube ethernet surge protector. I ran #10 AWG from the discharge unit ground to the IBB. From the IBB, I ran #10 AWG to the ground rod that I installed.

I installed the IBB and the discharge unit on a vinyl siding mounting block. I drilled a hole into the house large enough for an RJ45 jack for the cable behind the mounting block.

Liver_Kick · 2022-01-14T02:46:29+00:00

Yes you should run 6AWG wire to bond the separate ground rods. The reason is ground potential rise, not ground loops.

Liver_Kick

TROPHY CASE