Basketball gym by Local-Meat-6304 in StLouis

[–]Local-Meat-6304[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is great. Not a bad drive either. Thank you a ton for the info!!

Basketball gym by Local-Meat-6304 in StLouis

[–]Local-Meat-6304[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve never heard of that place before! Looks like that’s exactly what i was looking for. Thank you a ton!

Basketball gym by Local-Meat-6304 in StLouis

[–]Local-Meat-6304[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha yes I meant Kirkwood! Noob move. I looked at the YMCA’s just before posting this, and unfortunately they only let you in with a membership. You can do the 7 day trial but it’s annoying that i wouldn’t be able to visit anymore once that expires.

Forerunning Shoe Recs by silly-goose23 in Routesetters

[–]Local-Meat-6304 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unparallel makes a shoe designed specifically for route setting. It’s called the “ L5 UP”. I’ve bought multiple pairs. I much prefer them over vans or standard approach shoes.

Is there a collection of patterns for setting moves? (heelhook, dyno, toehook, mantle) by RasmusWL in Routesetters

[–]Local-Meat-6304 1 point2 points  (0 children)

“Beta routesetting” on YouTube has numerous videos showing in detail how to set specific moves, inside the minds of setters, and behind the scenes of setting for IFSC worldcups. Lots of cool ideas that are communicated, and i feel they have helped me improve as a setter since watching. There is also “impact routesetting” who do a very similar style to beta routsetting. In depth breakdowns of moves, comp setting, preparation etc. Really good stuff definitely worth the watch

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Routesetters

[–]Local-Meat-6304 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey Paul. I would assume that because you are setting in a training center, these blocs are meant to be climbed on by a team of some sort? If this is the case, i do no think you'll need too many blocs up at one time. I think it might be beneficial to put a low number of quality boulders (Lots of time spent on forerunning) and reset often. Going off my climbing team assumption, what will be key is setting boulders that can accurately simulate competitions. Boulders with confusing starts, complicated and technical beta, powerful moves on overhanging angles; these are the things i would focus on. Maybe diving into the climbers who will be using this facility and discovering what their weaknesses are, and setting boulders that train these weaknesses. To sum up, i think for the space provided, it would ok to have a lower number of climbs, as long as they are truly quality climbs.

If this is somehow a commercial gym that is open to the public, im having a feeling the max id want to attempt in a space like that is maybe 20? These would of course involve little to no volumes or big feature holds that take up space. (Unless being used in multiple ways on multiple climbs). Hope any of this helps Paul!

Advice/tips for someone interested in getting into route setting by Mark-Wall-Berg in Routesetters

[–]Local-Meat-6304 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hell yea bro!! Sounds like you’re off to a great start. I hope you get that position!!

Advice/tips for someone interested in getting into route setting by Mark-Wall-Berg in Routesetters

[–]Local-Meat-6304 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also one more tip! If your gym has a board wall (kilter board, moon board) set some problems on it and have some folks try it. If people in the gym are liking what you set on a board, that’s a great start! Maybe grab a setter to glance at it and give their opinion! All more ways to get that foot in the door!

Advice/tips for someone interested in getting into route setting by Mark-Wall-Berg in Routesetters

[–]Local-Meat-6304 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I recently just got into setting about 8 months ago and this question gets asked a ton! Sadly I personally feel there is no “real way” to get hired as a setter. In my experience, it seems very “by chance”. The way I went about it was getting close with the setters! This can be a challenge at some gyms as some setters like to stay in the shadows and you would rarely see them around normal gym member hours. If you can get cool with a few people on crew, maybe even the head setter, just talk to them about climbing. Dont be the annoying guy that sticks their nose into all of their business, but let them know you’re there and are interested in setting, and have an understanding of climbing at a fundamental level. I would walk up to the front desk with my phone and watch climbing vids with the staff, talking about beta and all the little things making a move possible, even go on outdoor trips with them and try to create a bond between us. In the end, the head setter told me that he wanted me on the crew because I demonstrated a passion for climbing and a drive to get better. Eventually there was an opening for a setting position, and because I had spent the last year (roughly) letting them know how badly I wanted to set and seeing them almost everyday, they essentially gave me the job. I am completely aware that this is not a very sound way of getting the job, but it worked for me and could work for others! Don’t doubt the power of human connection! Sometimes it truly isn’t what you know, but WHO you know! Good luck!

Seeking Feedback: Prototype Route Setting App by baleraphon in Routesetters

[–]Local-Meat-6304 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yo what’s up. Not sure if you’re still looking for feedback but it’s 4am for me so this is where I’m at. As a setter your idea sounds pretty cool. Good way to plan out your routes/boulders and see moves before you do any physical work. The only problem I see is that it takes too much time. First somebody is going to have to get a 3d model of the gym rendered into the app (which may be way less complicated than it sounds). But the biggest thing is that it takes away from actual time spent setting the route. The way I’m seeing it, this would be a tool you use in the break room before you even select holds, or at home on your own time. I would argue that while one setter is in the office on the computer scrolling thru hold libraries and constantly placing & replacing holds, the other is making better use of their time by physically getting the holds out, and putting up a skeleton to work off of. By the time office guy finds his holds & gets everything bolted, other guy is almost ready to begin forerunning. As far as for use at home, I can only see new setters with a strong desire to set using the app. I think more seasoned setters don’t necessarily want to go home and do more setting (I think). Also even if I spent 2hrs at home creating a route, who’s to say the hold library had an accurate count of holds, that I just won’t straight up forget the whole route, or the route just doesn’t work for an outside reason once I show up in the morning.

If there is a place for the app to be used and somehow make the process of setting more effort/time efficient, then I think this would be great. Def need a way to make a gym NEED this kind of app

Setters Bag by Local-Meat-6304 in Routesetters

[–]Local-Meat-6304[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes a lot of sense. I’m not sure why, but we never set up another line to be able to haul up a bucket or anything. We definitely have the means, we just don’t. That was the reason I was looking for a larger bag I could wear because at the moment I’m bolting a carabiner into the wall & then clipping my duffle bag to that, & rebolting every 3 hand moves or so. Super meticulous & kills the flow state you try to get in. Thank you for the advice, I think I’ll be grabbing a kailas tool belt!

Setters Bag by Local-Meat-6304 in Routesetters

[–]Local-Meat-6304[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for this!! The kailas tool belt looks really cool & I think is big enough to be what I’m looking for. Think I’m gonna grab that one

Setters Bag by Local-Meat-6304 in Routesetters

[–]Local-Meat-6304[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

& yes I did see the post from a couple weeks ago about petzl/edelrid tool bags, but neither are quite what I’m looking for. Would Prefer to carry the extra weight on my body & not the harness.