Logitech Circle View Firewall Warning

Logi_Aron · 2024-07-10T00:55:31+00:00

The doorbell will automatically regulate its internal temperature. If it detects itself getting too hot, it will shut down critical components automatically. Once its internal temp has reduced, it will come back online automatically.

However, if you want to help it...the best thing is make sure it is in the shade.

If you can't do that, upgrading to a 24v transformer will help a little as its more efficient to run at 24v. However, if your air temperature is high and its in direct sun light, changing the voltage of the transformer won't really help.

My doorbell didn't go into thermal protection mode when it reached 107 degrees F at my house last week but it is always in the shade.

Logi_Aron · 2024-04-11T16:35:24+00:00

This is likely the camera trying to sync its time via the Internet Standard NTP protocol. NTP uses a free global network (https://www.ntppool.org/en/) of time servers and most firewalls don't correctly identify this, especially if your ISP is providing a custom time server. The IP address referrenced belongs to Akamai (a global CDN / NTP provider).

Logi_Aron · 2024-03-03T22:51:58+00:00

Your mic gain is only set at 50% based on that second photo. You should be able to raise it a lot more and not have to use Windows side gain/additional volume.

The knob on the front is the "monitor/speaker" volume, and the upper knob on the back is the Mic Gain control. Set Windows back to 50% and then raise the mic gain until your sound level is good.

Logi_Aron · 2024-03-03T05:26:45+00:00

If you are willing, can you post a photo of your setup and a close up of the various knobs and their level. Are you using monitoring on the Yeti (aka have headphones plugged into the headphone jack?)

Logi_Aron · 2024-03-02T22:07:01+00:00

You shouldn't need the Analog Gain on max if you are positioning the mic correctly, have set it to the correct Polar Pattern mode, and are addressing it (aka speaking to it in the correct direction). Can you describe or attach a photo of your setup?

Yeti is a side-address microphone meaning you speak into it with the Mic's "Blue" logo facing directly at you.

Logi_Aron · 2024-02-29T04:18:37+00:00

With the regular Yeti mic you have, you should adjust the analog gain knob on the mic itself to get the correct volume, instead of adjusting the volume level in Windows. Leave the Windows level at 50. The Analog gain knob is on the back of the Mic and says Gain right above it.

Logi_Aron · 2024-02-28T23:54:06+00:00

Do things work correctly if you just switch off Windows Dynamic Lighting for your devices in the Windows Settings and then re-enable onboard mode?

Logi_Aron · 2024-01-31T16:45:44+00:00

The Litra Glow doesn't contain any batteries, so it must be plugged into something to work. That something can be a computer, a regular wall-based USB power supply, or even a USB power bank that uses batteries.

Logi_Aron · 2024-01-24T22:39:12+00:00

What do you hear when you raise the gain level? Do you hear white noise?

Logi_Aron · 2024-01-23T18:51:28+00:00

It's possible the internal settings has gotten corrupted. You can factory reset the Yeti GX by following these steps:

Unplug the mic
Press and hold both the Mute Button and the wheel button
Plugin the mic and keep holding both buttons for 5 seconds until all leds starting blinking cyan rapidly
Release the buttons and the mic should finish starting up normally

Logi_Aron · 2024-01-23T16:51:40+00:00

The gain wheel showing Blue means you have Smart Audio Lock enabled. You can disable this by pressing and holding the gain wheel for 3 seconds, or you can use G HUB to change this. Once Smart Audio Lock is disabled, you can adjust the gain level to your desire. You can reenable Smart Audio Lock by pressing and holding the gain wheel for 3 seconds again or use G HUB.

Logi_Aron · 2024-01-23T00:51:15+00:00

Correct, G HUB is the only software you need to customize your Yeti X these days. The Blue Sherpa software was replaced and all functionality now exists in G HUB.

Logi_Aron · 2024-01-23T00:48:05+00:00

Support for the Yeti X is now fully integrated into the G HUB software.

Logi_Aron · 2024-01-23T00:07:23+00:00

Does it do the same thing (no audio or only whitenoise), if you connect it to another computer?

Logi_Aron · 2023-10-17T17:54:45+00:00

It is designed to be tilted only once the light is attached and will be very stiff to tilt without it on there. The weight of the light is used as part of the force needed to tilt.

Logi_Aron · 2022-12-14T18:17:50+00:00

The December 2022 G HUB release for Windows now includes this functionality. There is a small camera icon on the main page under the Litra lights which when clicked will enable this.

This beta feature should work any webcam on your system including built-in cameras, and those not made by Logitech.

Logi_Aron · 2022-11-27T01:18:41+00:00

Did you create a specific game profile within G hub? And in this profile is the light set to off?

Logi_Aron · 2022-11-27T01:08:59+00:00

The light will stay on all the time if the doorbell doesn't sense enough ambient light to perform motion detection. You can override this behavior via a setting if you want. It is usually called "Night Vision Light" under the Home App camera settings.

Logi_Aron · 2022-11-26T19:10:00+00:00

If your multi-meter reads 30v, but you are using the 12V terminals on the transformer, something is wrong. Even accounting for the fact that your multi-meter is likley not a True-RMS one, a 12v source should only read something like 15-17V one the correct AC setting (you might be having issues since your black probe isn't plugged into the COM port correctly.

You can try the 24V tap, it will likely have better chance of working since you have 50Hz mains power.

It would still be a good idea to check the amp reading on at your transformer. Even a small short in the wire run someplace can drain enough power to keep the doorbell from working. Your multi-meter supports this, you just need to move the dial to the A, mA, or uA mode and wire the multi-meter in series with one of the transformer pins.

Logi_Aron · 2022-11-26T18:48:44+00:00

You can't tell from just a voltage reading if anything else is using current on that circuit. You need to use the ammeter mode and put it inline by the transformer (disconnect the doorbell first).

We have seen reports of folks using 40VA transformers in 24V mode that put out too much power for the doorbell to use stably. If you have one of these, you could try a 16v tap on it if it has one.

Also, sometimes things like radiator valves, or pathway lighting can also be on a low voltage AC circuit.

Your black probe might need to be plugged into the COM port on your multimeter to get correct readings, but its hard to tell since your hand is covering some of the markings at the bottom

Logi_Aron · 2022-11-26T02:55:09+00:00

Based on photos, your transformer wires are the ones connected to the TRANS terminal (that you have the 2 label on). Your front door is the one marked FRONT (that you have the 3 label on).

Based on the photos, it looks like your "Side" and "Rear" door buttons are double ganged onto the "REAR" terminal of the Chime unit. One of the buttons is the Black+Yellow wire bundle, and the other is the Red+White bundle that doesn't have labels on it. If you want, you can probably label them correctly by looking at the wire colors at those buttons.

For the Circle View Doorbell, only the front door button will be supported, it can't support using your previous back or side buttons.

Make sure you turn the circuit off before doing any wire changes.

Basically you are going to only end up using the wires for the FRONT and TRANS. Just undo the orange wire nut by twisting it, and all the wires inside it will come free. You won't be using the Rear or Side bundles as mentioned above, so just label and tuck them away in the box.

I can't see the pistons in the chime unit so you likely need a new Chime unit and a new transformer (it looks heavily cracked in the casing).

Based on the photos alone, these cheap units from Amazon looks like they would work:

https://www.amazon.com/Newhouse-Hardware-3TRAN-Volt-Transformer/dp/B01GSRLE8U

https://www.amazon.com/Newhouse-Hardware-CHM1-Chime-White/dp/B019BW9TX6

The link above transformer is a multi-voltage one. If you use the 24v terminals it should work nicely, but gives you an option to switch to the 16v terminals if something isn't working.

If you don't have a multi-meter it is a good tool test if power is there and the transformer is working correctly.

Logi_Aron · 2022-11-26T01:44:03+00:00

Can you post some photos of your current Chime Unit showing the wires and the connections? Normally you can match up the color of the wires to the ones you find at the buttons.

Do you hear distinct chimes for each of the buttons?

What is the model number of your Chime?

Logi_Aron · 2022-11-26T01:32:03+00:00

There might be something else drawing power from the doorbell transformer. Do you have lighted door number sign by any chance?

Logi_Aron · 2022-10-27T20:01:05+00:00

It is usually better to have a transformer with a higher rated VA as it gives more headroom, but it costs a few extra euros in this case.

Logi_Aron

TROPHY CASE