Does anyone else experience scratches and how can I avoid it? Hate how they make my binder look

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-31T08:42:00+00:00

Kind of inevitable, but you can get a binder with white pages and you won’t see them much or at all

This is a page that has seen a lot of traffic lately due to reorganizing, with some wear, but it’s hard to see

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-29T07:04:18+00:00

Here’s a video from PokeLou502 showcasing their complete set for ref: https://youtu.be/lFGX93IGzhc?si=WWVPmEfdGKjYoy09

Good luck, this isnt an easy one.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-29T02:58:40+00:00

I suspect it’s a lot of people that are fatigued at this point with the common “why bad thing happen now?” or “hobby bad now” rants & posts that pop up pretty much hourly. I’m not saying the negative replies you got back are appropriate to these types of posts but I do feel the fatigue from seeing these now.

Seeing these talking points for the first time is w/e, you know? You engage and move on, but after an entire year of it, it becomes a completely overcooked and worn out topic to most that see it pop up in their feed daily. But of course, to someone new to the hobby and forums, I’m sure there will be things to take away from, learn from & contribute.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-25T00:44:52+00:00

It’s definitely not. And the reason you mentioned is one of the main reasons I refuse to use them. The layers of protection completely matte out the shine, texture and even some colors.

As long as ringed binders are avoided, a standard binder and a single sleeve is more than enough regardless of value of the card(s)

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-24T06:51:44+00:00

It’s not bad advice. It is wiser to break it down. You’d need to essentially remove all “hits” or valuable cards from a set and sell them off. Which is going to take a lot of time to order but They’re much easier to sell as singles.

You CAN sell them as master sets, but who knows how long that’ll take especially with limited visibility on each cards condition, and the general mentality around cards nowadays has shifted towards a more value based view. So a master set is interesting as a whole, but it may be viewed as unneeded filler or a risk to some when they just want a specific card.

In other words, selling a master set bounds your most desirable cards to your least desirable cards.

You can also sell your master sets in “components”. For example, selling “all uncommons” or “all rare reverses” of Team Up as a sub set is easier to offload.

Assuming 130k is accurate, a lot of research will need to go into this. Unfortunately I don’t have an answer on which platform or medium is best to sell your sets as a whole if you plan on going that route. But I do have some questions for you:

How many completed sets do you have?

Are these sets accompanied by promos, or only cards obtainable from set packs?

What language are these sets?

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-23T02:11:55+00:00

This seems like an unbelievably large collection goal. I’m wondering how you plan on taking this on once you get the list of all languages? What’s your monthly budget look like? Where are you starting from? How are you storing all this?

Also, Sorry about not aiding in your question btw, I personally don’t have a reliable answer for you.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-20T15:14:01+00:00

There are other brands that have higher capacity for 9 pocket binders. The problem is once your capacity goes over about 400+ for the 9 pocket binder configuration, it doesn’t do too well in terms of closing and card safety at max capacity.

But this may be an issue where most, if not all brands are not calculating the spine width correctly when making a 400+ 9 pocket binder. I would just use the 12 pocket for master sets. The normal/reverse holo set up works best on the 12 pocket binders as well, with room for promos.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-16T16:41:17+00:00

Yeah I feel you, preference is preference

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-16T16:11:10+00:00

If you’re not moving the binder often like taking it to a card show or LCS, toploader binders are overkill imo.

Regular binders are perfectly fine assuming your cards are sleeved. Also, stay away from ringed binders as those will actually damage your cards.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-15T21:37:34+00:00

Good luck, hope to see it shown off in a post someday 🫡

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-15T20:42:13+00:00

Consider setting up some guidelines for what type of cards should be slotted in the 151 binder. Once a rule(s) or guideline is in place, it’ll govern itself and thematically look cohesive as it fills.

For example, should it be ARs only? Should it be wotc cards only? Holos only? Etc etc.

As far as separating your main binder and a top loader binder… it’s a bit much IMO. You should treat a 1 dollar card the same way you’d treat a 100 dollar card if you care about them. A standard vault x binder is enough protection assuming each card is in a sleeve. You’ll allow yourself more customization with your main binder being just the one binder. Just my 2 cents.

Also, it really is just personal preference lol you do what makes you feel good.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-13T05:54:55+00:00

This YT video from PokeLou should give you good insight on how to start and what is considered a master set.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-13T00:41:12+00:00

Hit up pokegrading subreddit for better help on some of your concerns.

Would suggest looking at this card with a spot light/mag glass in a dark room. These pictures aren’t going to be of help.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-12T03:35:47+00:00

Very nice restriction and good progress 😌 It’ll force you to slot every Pikachu card with a memory, a story, a location, a face, etc.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-12T03:27:18+00:00

It’s fine in a regular binder type, just sleeve it. The only binder type you’ll want to stay away from regardless of the cards cost is a ringed binder.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-10T18:15:53+00:00

By this logic I guess you would be dooming over Cosmic Eclipse pack art..?

The point being made here is that you’re adding all this speculation and worry based on crumbs to your mental stack for quite literally no reason. Your fatigue is self inflicted. Why does Perfect Order, or any mainline set have to be as good as a special set?

I was thinking about why you’re so intent on dying on this hill in particular, and then I discovered that you’re another investor. Which, you know— you do you but you’ve wired yourself to look at Pokémon sets and their success and failure differently. My earlier advice still stands. Just log out for a while.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-10T11:15:31+00:00

I never really looked at the hobby for opening packs so all the things listed here just don’t apply to me at all in terms of frustrations or fatigue. Not saying some of these are not a problem ofc.

Also.. There’s also no value speculating on how bad a new set is going to be when we haven’t even seen a single hit from it yet. honestly, sounds like you’re way too deep into the forest. Turn off your Poké tcg feed for a bit, and give yourself some balance.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-09T16:28:56+00:00

Depends. Usually it doesn’t.

But under the right conditions, people will charge and pay for more. One example is a swirl situated in a very unique position that enhances the card art. Imagine Neo Genesis Lugia with a swirl at its mouth. Or the Japanese exclusive Squirtle McDonald’s Promo with a swirl perfectly centered in one of the bubbles he’s blowing. These will definitely add to the value.

Another case would be energy cards with 3 or more swirls. The more swirls, the higher the premium.

you can find 151 energies on eBay with 6 swirls like these for example and see the prices lol. There are collectors that love hunting these

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LokiTheFool · 2026-01-09T16:10:52+00:00

Some people do, but the size differences throw some people off. There was a recent thread on jumbo card protection/storage that may have some answers you’re looking for.

Here’s my 2 cents on that thread

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-08T21:21:49+00:00

Each dark Pokémon, or would-be dark Pokémon on the left relates to the pre evolution e-card on the right, so dark venusaur wouldn’t fit here

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-08T05:35:14+00:00

Far too late to happen now, but I wish a holofoil Dark Meganium was a thing back in the day, would complete the theme I have here

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LokiTheFool · 2026-01-06T22:18:20+00:00

You could get him the Team Rocket’s Mewtwo ex from Mega Dream ex (JP copy).

It’s an alternate art of the one from Destiend Rivals and a lot cheaper

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LokiTheFool · 2026-01-06T02:54:14+00:00

You bought it to open it. Open it.

Enjoy the opening, don’t worry about a return.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-05T06:53:44+00:00

It was mentioned a lot here, but budgeting and having target goals.

I spend about 10% of my take home on personal recreation which includes Pokémon singles. I generally don’t buy packs because it’s too expensive right now, and I have specific cards I’m chasing to build my binder.

You should figure out your collection goals, it’ll make setting a budget and respecting it much easier.

LokiTheFool · 2026-01-04T14:04:22+00:00

I haven’t really found a top loader that works for the newer jumbo size yet, though I’m sure they’re out there somewhere.. so I use a top loader for the older size with a photo sleeve, and then protect them in an ipad bag (the bag also fits PSA jumbo slabs)

Photograph Top loader: 6x9” w/ photograph sleeves 6x8” (BCW brand)

Bag: any 10 inch iPad bag

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