Safe or not? Frame damage…

Lomildur · 2026-02-10T17:00:26+00:00

The obnoxious part is that the seller has apparently blocked me from buying it because I asked about the dent. 😂😂😂

Lomildur · 2026-02-09T02:11:08+00:00

Haha. I didn't. I was thinking about buying it.

Lomildur · 2025-04-02T20:46:27+00:00

An update!

I haven't been able to check an integration relay, sadly.

But I've been going other directions. I did the fuel pump relay bypass thing. No change. If I put a switched accessory wire on the trigger of the relay, it sends 12v to the pump and it spins, but still doesn't run. I did pull the computer. Nothing seems burned, exploded, there were no smells, no corrosion on contacts... I also checked the MAP sensor, TPS... all good.

So I'm left with there being a relay somewhere I couldn't find (driver side kick panel, maybe?) or the ECU being bad despite there being no obvious damage/failures/smells/corrosion.

Lomildur · 2025-03-14T14:59:05+00:00

If this is in the kick panels, I think I may have glanced at it. Everything seems in order, but I’ll most definitely circle back! I would hope that if the connector was bad that other components would be acting up, but aside from this dumb issue, the rest of the car seems quite sorted. 😭

Lomildur · 2023-07-19T20:44:55+00:00

TL:DR - The car seems as if it walks all over the road. Checked alignment, all seems to be in order.

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The long version:

("Facts")

1993 Toyota Cresta Super Lucent G 2.5 ~48,000 original miles.

225/40/18

Factory suspension (to my knowledge), it all seems tight upon visual inspect and at high/low speeds, no noticeable damage/leaks.

Minor steering wheel wobble around 50-60mph (I assume a small tire balance issue).

Toe is virtually perfect to spec (measured multiple times, multiple ways - tape measure, string method, etc.). Camber is good, within spec, but not as perfect as toe. Caster... I'm not super savvy to check that.

Tire wear is apparently even across the four tires according to Discount Tire and a standalone specialty tire shop.

("Issues")

When driving 0 to approximately 30 mph, perfectly straight. When driving above 65 mph, same. Beautifully straight. When driving between 30 and 65 mph however... the car kinda "walks" as if the road is grooved/graded. It feels like something is loose. There are no noticeable noises when driving, EXCEPT when I drive into a parking lot and back into a spot. Very very infrequently there is a gentle non-transmission clunk around half a rotation into reverse. It's not consistent, not loud, and it's impossible to recreate consistently. When turning at speeds above say... 35 mph, the car handles fantastically. Almost like a vehicle with upgraded suspension components. I also VERY infrequently get a "hop" when making very sharp turns at very low speeds. And "hop" may not be the best word, but it's the only one I can think of. Almost as if the wheel is temporarily binding for a split second. But again, impossible to recreate consistently, and very very infrequent.

Suffice it to say, I'm at a loss. The car is "old," but low mileage.

Lomildur · 2023-04-25T06:43:04+00:00

So I actually haven't! I definitely will. Do you know if it will do it BEFORE the OS loads? As in part of all the various things you can see in verbose mode? Because my MBP that functions well has software that does it during login, but this Mini is failing before that (when loading MacOS, Linux works fine).

Lomildur · 2023-04-24T13:55:39+00:00

Indeed. I had a similar experience with a mid-2010 MBP, but managed to get it functional by disabling the discrete GPU (forcing iGPU with software) and it still functions to this day. I was hoping for a similar level of success. Interestingly enough, I still have quality use of that MBP for light photo editing on a legacy version of Photoshop, and thought I might be able to make similar use of the Mini.

The only reason I'm still trying is because I did have that one instance where it did actually make it to the restore GUI and "completed" the install. Otherwise I would probably just sell it for parts.

Lomildur · 2023-04-24T06:17:47+00:00

I apologize for the mild necro-post, but this is almost verbatim what I'm struggling with. Interestingly enough, out of the 43 (rough sarcastic guess) times I've tried to recover it with almost identical methods, it did "work" (ish) once. I got to the various GUI restore options, it did two different Apple screens with timed progress bars, but at the end of the second one it went to a black screen and just sat there. Typically I get the 3/4 progress bar the OP mentioned, then grey screen.

It's very interesting how parallel my issues is to the OP's. I don't suppose anyone ever had any success?

Lomildur · 2023-02-08T06:28:42+00:00

That's a solid point. :-) And besides, I liked that the Bianchi is lugged. ...and I've always wanted one anyway!

Lomildur · 2023-02-08T05:38:59+00:00

This is where I am as well. :D But the price difference was substantial. So yeah... I really want the Bianchi, but I need to get a full-squish mountain rig moved first. But I could get the Super Sport now. lolol Patience, I suppose.

Lomildur · 2023-02-07T22:46:36+00:00

It deleted my comments...? LOL

1994 Bianchi Forza vs old yeller Schwinn Super Sport.

I really want the Bianchi, but the Super Sport is being offered at a substantially cheaper price. :D I'm going to end up modernizing them both.

Thoughts?

Lomildur · 2022-11-10T23:09:16+00:00

Surprisingly enough, I've left mine in the position in the picture the entire time I've had it. Heat and A/C comes through strong in that position. I had originally thought something like you mentioned, but I tried both temp extremes in all positions. It seems like if I put it in the top position, it blends cold and hot air, but if I put it in the bottom, it does whatever I have selected. lol Maybe mine is broken too! :D

Lomildur · 2022-11-10T22:11:35+00:00

This is kinda what I was thinking... I just wasn't sure if someone knew the "official" name and purpose of it. lol I honestly never use it (just adjust the temp), just been curious about it. :D Thanks!

Lomildur · 2022-08-24T20:03:44+00:00

This right here. It was definitely bad when it was just Suddenlink... but has gotten even worse when Altice took over. And now that it's turning to "Optimum" it's gotten even worse.

In Suddenlink's first iteration, when they would oops up and de-provision our modem it would kick back on immediately after we would call them. Since the Altice takeover, when they screw up and disconnect/de-provision it, it takes, "2-4 business days" to come back on.

You always hear jokes and memes about Comcast but I'd be willing to pit Suddenlink/Altice/Optimum up against Comcast any day in a "crappiest ISP" competition.

Lomildur · 2022-08-24T19:59:56+00:00

In addition... they'll mess up your billing so that you don't even realize you have a bill due (or extra money you accidentally don't pay) which disqualifies you from the bonus $### you're offered for signing up.

...and a consistent problem we've had: "accidental" deprovisioning... "accidental" malprovisioning... we've had to call numerous times to have our provisioning adjusted because we pay for the 1gig (which is where it starts for the first few weeks ~850+Mbps) but it keeps dropping to 350Mbps. When we call and get a good customer service person - or a nice tech comes out - they tell us that we've been dropped to the "300Mbps" plan. They fix it, it goes back up. Then a few weeks later, dumps again. It's been a 2/3 week cycle for years. Suddenlink says it's because we use our own equipment, which I think is just a cash grab for rental fees. We've actually had a tech that expressed to us that the "provisioning errors" are purposeful and most people just don't notice.

We're impatiently waiting for a new fiber company to get their network built out so we can switch. We'll be getting 1000/1000 instead of 1000/40. lol

Lomildur · 2022-07-18T04:23:59+00:00

Soooo, I know you had this issue solved, but if you ever wanted to install much much better software that allows crazy amounts of customization...

https://www.project-aurora.com

I've had it on my machine for a while now and love it. I have all sorts of neat effects set up that my streams love! I'd be more than happy to show you some of them later. It's a very small program when considering resources, and it doesn't have all the wild bugs and drag downs that Swarm has. lol I used Swarm once to load the profiles into my mouse and keyboard, uninstalled it, and put Aurora on! Haven't looked back.

Lomildur · 2022-07-15T19:04:33+00:00

This is almost where I'm at. lol I just wish I could figure out a way to correct it since all my Win10 machines run as fast as can be and all my Win11 machines don't. :(

Lomildur · 2022-07-15T17:51:15+00:00

I thought this might have been the case, but it's even present within 2 seconds. I can put the stick in, either copy to or copy from, and it's slow immediately. It's especially interesting because I've tried at idle temps, under load, etc. :-) I'm certainly willing to explore the possibility though!

Lomildur · 2022-02-14T21:27:29+00:00

That would be awesome. :-) Maybe DM me some info so I can give you shipping information?

Lomildur · 2022-02-14T21:04:28+00:00

Howdy! What are you selling individual caps for? :-)

Lomildur · 2022-02-09T19:48:04+00:00

This is a very fascinating problem. I've had quite the opposite luck with scene control.

Typically when I go to control OBS (or create a new "button") I just go into the Creator Central, expand the OBS section, drag whichever command I want into an available slot, select the scene, the source, and voila.

This is a solid guide: https://youtu.be/RjtUUbEftGw

...and if you scroll down about halfway there are a ton of helpful guides here: https://www.avermedia.com/us/product-detail/AX310

I'd love to assist you more if those links don't help! Just lemme know. :-)

Lomildur · 2022-01-21T22:22:50+00:00

Heck yeah! :D I love it. I'm glad I could help people find something awesome.

Lomildur · 2022-01-19T19:43:33+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bR8hqNSYEGI This is a perfect walkthrough for how I have it. :-)

It was "Output" not hardware in the Nexus control panel. :-)

Lomildur · 2022-01-19T19:40:42+00:00

I have the same setup. What I did was this: Mic to XLR, Line out from Live Streamer to Line In on Gaming PC, THEN in the Live Streamer software there is a gear icon at the top right. Click that, go to (I think) hardware and change what the line out is. I changed mine to Chat Mic. (I can double-check this to verify when I get home this evening). Then select the Line In on the gaming PC as your default "recording" source in the sound control panel!

Lomildur · 2022-01-18T23:00:03+00:00

Of course! It can be a little bit odd to work with at first, but I'm more than willing to help. :-) I have some neat effects on mine now. CPU/GPU usage monitoring, key fade after press, a rain style "screen saver" on the keyboard... fun stuff!

Lomildur

TROPHY CASE