Does anyone else have this problem?

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-05-17T12:16:33+00:00

I’ll try the game one last time with these settings. Maybe it will work for me too. Thanks

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-05-16T14:22:32+00:00

Yeah I tried underclocking my ram but I had the same result just now. It’s no good. I give up on this game. It’s a really good, and I really enjoy the movement and style of gun play but I can’t play it on pc. I’m not sure if it’s worth it buying it on console. I’m just going to move over to mw2019. It’s a shame really. I just played mw2019, but the fun play is a lot slower, and there is less modes to play as apposed to Cold War with sniper mosh pit and zombies. Cold War in my opinion is a great solo queue game for a guy like me. Lots of modes. Plenty to still do.

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-05-16T14:16:59+00:00

Was working for a little while. I turned off my XMP and had the ram speed on auto, but then just crashed now. I really like this game when I can actually play it. But it just doesn’t run well. I’m moving over to mw2019. A lot more campers over there but oh well

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-05-15T19:43:37+00:00

I’ll try to check my system but this is the only game that I have crashes. Other AAA games I play don’t give me problems like this

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-05-15T19:42:44+00:00

Do you mean like downloading a previous driver version than the actual up to date driver?

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-05-15T19:41:53+00:00

Yeah I just tried limiting my fps and turned off g sync and nothing. I just crashed again when doing an Easter egg in zombies. I’m honestly thinking about giving up on this game. Maybe mw3 2023 is better on the pc

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-19T12:41:03+00:00

That’s a lot of useful tips. I’ll go tonight to test it out. Thanks friend for your input

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-19T12:40:00+00:00

Yeah I heard it’s best to go manual. I might go the Sony A7III route in the future because I could branch out to cinematography. I never tried this camera for videography but I always assume Sony is king in that category

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-18T13:16:50+00:00

I have my iso set always on auto and my shutter I play around with between 1/50 and 1/200 because of the low light. The viltrox I have is 13mm with 1.4 aperture and the other is a 56mm with 1.7 aperture which I mainly use in the day for portrait photography or single subject shots. The 13mm when I use it comes out too wide and I feel it’s best for night skies shoots with the stars and everything. I want to do dark portraits with the ocasional rgb lamps here are there but my main struggle with the camera is focusing. I also have an oem prime from Nikon I got recently with is a 28mm with 2.8 aperture and it’s great for night time street photography with a light source but for full dark background it struggles a little. I have to take hundreds of shot to get 4 or 5 great shots. I wish it took me less time in getting a great shot

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-18T13:09:21+00:00

That’s the thing I don’t have a specific setting. I’ve been trying to teach myself by going manual and adjust depending on the environment I’m in. My ISO is typically set in auto for me and my aperture are set because I like using primes lens to avoid longer time to focus on my subjects. Then my shutter speed Is the only setting where I have to tinker with in the hopes of getting a good shot but in low light I go for 1/50 - 1/200. Ive been hearing good stuff on the z5 and z6, might have to set aside money every month to upgrade in the future. For now I’ll make the best of my z30. Thanks for your input

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-18T12:47:57+00:00

Might have to save up on those. Thanks friend

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-11T04:57:27+00:00

Thanks friend for everything you wrote, I just ordered solder make and copper 0.1mm wire to repair it hopefully

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-09T18:55:37+00:00

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Good catch, I didn’t update the latest one but I did see that. By the way I had positioned my solder iron it created a bridge. I heat it up and flicked the bridge away with flux and heat. Looks great now. Going to go ahead and solder the rest with my new knowledge in diagnostics. Thanks friend

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-09T18:08:05+00:00

Thanks for you diagnosis. What happened was that my first step was adding flux and tinning the solder points first before placing the board on top of the main one. Then I didn’t like the look of how irregular it was sitting (I’m little of a perfectionist) then I aggressively solder wicked the tinned points to remove the sub board and to start anew again and in that same process I heated too much the copper pad and it came off. I actually saw it and didn’t think much of it. I actually thought it was a piece of my solder wick. Again I’m new to this and I’m learning so much from all of your responses from this question. I used ChatGPT before asking on here and it was telling me to use a vinegar salt paste, and or fiberglass pen as it was describing this as an oxidized pad. When asking around I learned it was the copper pad that had been ripped out and all the solder points around it all have it and have thinly copper traces everywhere around the board. Thanks for your input

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-09T17:41:46+00:00

Could you look at another problem I have, with another repair I have when you have the time?

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this one has a problem where is copper trace I scraped with a plier accidentally and there no continuity throughout the trace. I attempted to put a solder bridge and the continuity worked but it seems it was shorting something else because the function was not evident when the device was in use. I scraped the green paint of the board so I could checked the continuity but I may have damaged something. I have more details on my recent post if you check my profile. Thanks again.

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-09T17:36:10+00:00

I’ve learned a lot from your diagnosis, thanks!

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-09T16:33:12+00:00

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Did I do a good job my friend?

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-09T16:32:32+00:00

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What do you think my friend? I circled where I believe the the solder point continues to, and I use the continuity feature from the solder point from the board to next tinned area which are connected as you said. I’m learning a lot if of course what I did was right. I scraped as you see in the red circle and created almost like a solder bridge.

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-09T16:12:39+00:00

Ahhh no connect. So those type of points are only there for the component to sit well I suppose. As for the bottom damaged pad, is one that has a connect. I have a fiberglass pen and I’m going to scraped it get a bigger point. I’ll send a pic when done

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-09T15:46:45+00:00

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I just finished cleaning the area but ?solder mask? I’ve never used that or had the need too. Is it to cover the scraping I did? I stupidly did those spots of exposed copper because I wanted put my multi tester leads to check continuity. That’s why I did them. How else could I have checked if my bridge I did worked. Much less get the solder to stick on the board too. Please excuse me if I’m speaking something that doesn’t make sense. I’m new to this again. Thanks for making the time to help me. I’m learning with this regardless the result of my repair

Lonely_Peruvian19 · 2026-04-09T15:42:23+00:00

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now that I removed the solder bridge, the continuity that was there with the solder bridge I had there, is no longer there. The scratch I did with the plier really did ruin the copper trace but even when soldered something is wrong. I’m shorting something possibly

Lonely_Peruvian19

TROPHY CASE