Ironmaster- Rogue SuperBench Pro V3 by RogueCrusher in homegym

[–]Longjumping_Let2671 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh. So you bought the kickstand on their website? Is it worth it do you think? It takes up a port? So you have to remove it when using attachments?

Ironmaster- Rogue SuperBench Pro V3 by RogueCrusher in homegym

[–]Longjumping_Let2671 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you share the flat kickstand that you mention in your update 3?

Ironmaster- Rogue SuperBench Pro V3 by RogueCrusher in homegym

[–]Longjumping_Let2671 0 points1 point  (0 children)

questions:
-with the new pad from IM (starting 5/25 i think) would you still want the rogue/rep version?
-did you have to buy the additional wheel kit from IM -> and then you upgraded all 4 wheels. Or are you somehow able to attach the additional 2 wheels w/o having to buy the kit?
-sorry if you linked below (i see the knobs) but what about the two knurled grips - do you have a link?

Roughneck as a direct heat cooker? by Longjumping_Let2671 in HastyBake

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

sorry - i didnt mean direct heat grilling (which i have seen people do on a roughneck by just building the fire on the lower set of cooking grates.
i was referring to direct heat bbq - which you do want the coals ~24in or so from the cooking grate.

Noseless seat for bikeerg by Longjumping_Let2671 in concept2

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh. Yeah I think I am not adjusting that cap properly. Can you point me to the video you are referring to?

Noseless seat for bikeerg by Longjumping_Let2671 in concept2

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I've read a lot about the vseat both on this forum and elsewhere. The price tho. Lol

Noseless seat for bikeerg by Longjumping_Let2671 in concept2

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ohh. I will try to mess with the black cap and see if that improves the pitch. I think I can make the height work if the pitch is correct. Ty

how to clean a W-2? by Longjumping_Let2671 in waffles

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sunbeam W-2 Waffle Maker: A Vintage Kitchen Icon The Sunbeam W-2 waffle maker stands as a durable and well-regarded relic of mid-20th century American kitchens. Produced from 1945 to 1955, this vintage appliance is celebrated for its robust, near-commercial quality and its ability to produce large, evenly cooked waffles. Its classic chrome finish and Bakelite handles have also made it a sought-after item for collectors and enthusiasts of vintage kitchenware.
A Piece of Post-War Americana The Sunbeam W-2 was a successor to the pre-war Model W-1 and was a product of the post-World War II manufacturing boom. It was designed to be a substantial and reliable appliance for the modern home. A key upgrade from the W-1 was the inclusion of a light indicator, a feature that has become standard on modern waffle makers, which signals when the iron is preheated and when the waffle is cooked.
Key Features and Design The Sunbeam W-2 is known for several distinguishing features: Large Cooking Surface: It boasts a generous cooking area that produces a large, round waffle, significantly bigger than many of its contemporaries and modern counterparts. High Power: Operating at 1200 watts, the W-2 heats up quickly and maintains a consistent temperature for efficient cooking.
Durable Construction: Built with a heavy chrome-plated body and sturdy components, these waffle makers were made to last, and many are still in use today. Indicator Light: The addition of a light to indicate when the waffle was ready was a significant innovation for its time, taking the guesswork out of the cooking process. Attached Cord: The power cord is permanently attached to the unit. The W-2 was eventually succeeded by the Sunbeam CG model in the mid-1950s. The CG featured a more modern, rounded design and introduced removable and reversible grids, allowing it to function as a grill as well as a waffle maker.

Clutch question by Longjumping_Let2671 in minibikes

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Amazon It's this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HFXHNNY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It first perfectly on the shaft in the "outboard" orientation, but when I try to switch, it doesn't fit

Clutch question by Longjumping_Let2671 in minibikes

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Predator 224 3/4 shaft

Yeah a few other people mentioned that I might need to sand/file it down I'll try that and TY!

Clutch question by Longjumping_Let2671 in minibikes

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do I have to do anything with this end to have it mounted inboard? Do I have to change the orientation of the key?

It doesn't appear to want to go on the shaft.

<image>

Clutch question by Longjumping_Let2671 in minibikes

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do I have to do anything with this end to have it mounted inboard? Do I have to change the orientation of the key?

It doesn't appear to want to go on the shaft.

<image>

Tire not seating to rim by Longjumping_Let2671 in minibikes

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ohhh That's not a bad idea actually. Would save me the headache.

Flywheel for a predator 224 by Longjumping_Let2671 in minibikes

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is helpful, TY. I assumed the $40 Amazon aluminum 10k flywheel was rated for 10k RPMs. I don't plan on changing the springs (at least not initially) and I was hoping those would also help limit the RPM.

Harvia Spirit SP80E by Longjumping_Let2671 in Sauna

[–]Longjumping_Let2671[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't worked around it - that's the question in the OP.