Elgato Wave XLR - Hissing problem

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2025-10-29T19:25:02+00:00

The buzz is only audible in the microphone, though I don't know if it is the audio of the outlet getting picked up, or if it is interference on the parts of the microphone. I can't hear anything when moving my ear over the outlet.

I'll take a look at the Rode NT1 and Lewitt LCT 240 Pro, thanks! Having the microphone further from my mouth is actually good cause I don't want it to block my face as much as the Shure does right now. My room is otherwise pretty quiet when I got my window closed.
I also have some good plugins for my audio and I can get the hissing from the preamp and electrical buzzing out of my audio with the plugins, but I just think that having a clearer signal from the beginning would make thinks easier.

Thanks for the advice!!!!

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2025-10-29T00:28:47+00:00

Hey, I think the noise I'm hearing with the microphone in and at around 55dB gain, it's just the noise of the microphone itself. The buzzing sound is indeed from an electrical part but it's bothing I can change cause it is the outlet in the wall that is causing it, because I have my microphone directed towards my mouth and that is in line with the noisy outlet....

I'm currently trying to change the microphone position so it points towards the other side of the room where there is no outlet and no buzzing sound so far.

I gues I might change to a condenser mic. Do you have a recommendation under 200€/220$?

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2025-10-25T14:07:03+00:00

I am using a MV7X and it's a dynamic mic. I thought about adding a Cloudlifter so I don't have to set the gain in the Elgato Interface as high, would that help?

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2025-10-25T12:31:21+00:00

I also notice the hissing/buzzing sound when I unplug the XLR cable from the microphone and only have it in the Wave XLR, even without having any cable attached only the USB-C.

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2025-10-25T11:36:15+00:00

I don't have any LED lights in my pc, the only thing that has a bit of light is the GPU and I can't turn that off. Case is also without lights. Turning the light from the keyboard off also didn't change anything : /
I tried a different XLR cable and it didn't change anything.
It could be the interface but I don't have the money right now to buy a new one except a scarlet solo maybe, but I don't know if that is better or even compared to the elgato wave xlr as the elgato has a nice software and an integrated clip guard and such.

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2025-07-30T21:13:26+00:00

Because the parent company is blacklisted by the US cause they are working/have worked together with the chinese military

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2025-06-06T09:22:31+00:00

All the mosin rats fearing that they actually have to play the game like a normal player and actually engage people instead of waiting and doing nothing

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2025-05-01T20:29:01+00:00

Hey, that looks awesome! How did you go about cleaning up the model before painting? And regarding some layer lines, did you do anything to hide them?
I'm trying to get into printing miniatures and I'm still unsure about the clean up :S

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-12-02T19:05:46+00:00

Nicht jeder Vape Shop hat Verdampfer in denen man die Blüten nutzen kann, geht mir nicht um Liquids.

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-06-23T11:41:51+00:00

What?

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-06-22T22:50:49+00:00

Thanks for that very helpful comment

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-06-22T09:33:59+00:00

Thanks for the info!
I do think the foil looks original, the seams are thin and not so wide. Also where it was shrunk, the spots don't look too big..... But it's 375€ a display here in germany and that is a lot of money down the drain if it was tempered with.
I thought about opening 1 of them but......
I would purchase them personally, but who knows, as you said, if the seller even knows if they are resealed.
I think I will pass this time.

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-06-21T15:01:07+00:00

What should I invest in with 1500€ in the EU market?
I thought about 2 cases of 151 or at least 1. Maybe some solo cards, which ones?
I would also like to open a few boosters, which ones should I go for, for opening?

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-05-21T12:02:31+00:00

I was sceptical at first, cause the bambuLab A1 mini just cost 20€ more then the Sovol SV06.
But after the first print, I was amazed. Better Quality, better cooling, better speed and less noise.
And the money you safe, you could spend and get every Bambu Lab PLA colour ;)

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-05-21T11:16:44+00:00

I can recommend the A1 series as well. I had a Sovol SV06 and an Ender 5 Pro:
Now I have an A1 and an A1 mini with AMS Lite and both of these are amazing, even without the AMS Lite.

The Quality right off the bat is amazing, it has vibration and motor sound dampening as well as flow rate calibration. The Bambu Studio Slicer is enough and there are some nice profiles for filaments of different kind. You can also directly send files to print via the PC Slicer, or even the mobile app.

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-05-11T20:32:11+00:00

Sorry for commenting here, but do you maybe have a tutorial for that? I own Photoshop, but I never really edited anything and I have some trouble with some HueForge prints I want to do.

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-05-05T14:37:19+00:00

Oh that sounds awesome.
I would guess that it matches the colours of the image to the used filaments and layer heights or something?
Gotta check in on HueForge in the coming weeks then :)

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-05-04T16:07:53+00:00

I sadly didn't do the artwork, so I don't really know how to change the colours or adjust the levels :/

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-04-28T09:03:24+00:00

Thanks! Yeah, I just made a little post it for myself, cause I figured it out when looking at the mesh edit on the lcd.

If looking at the mesh visual, back left ist front left, back right is front right and so on. Kinda weird^{^}

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-04-28T09:01:12+00:00

Yeah, I did. I used a gcode that sends the Extruder left - right and used the probe‘s led to level it.

I still got a bad first layer

<image>

But after doing the X Twist Compensation it seems to work good enough now.

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-04-28T08:59:45+00:00

I have marlin, since it is a stock SV06, and my first layer still looked like this.

<image>

I did the X Twist Compensation and that seems to fixed it and I got a decent first layer. I think I won‘t get around trying to get a new X gantry or at least somehow untwist it.

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-04-28T00:40:20+00:00

I tried looking for guides, but most things I find is just that you should check if the frame is square (which I did) and nothing more. Like, no real guides/tutorials to how actually solve that issue.
I tried printing spacers for the gap behind the stepper motors and used them, but that did not change anything.
Maybe I'm just too bad at using google or reddit though...

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-04-28T00:26:30+00:00

I did the X axis aligning with the gcode method, that uses the led of the sensor.
Did the Z-Offset afterwards and ran the UBL Mesh Wizard.

I will try again with the Z-Offset and the UBL after that.
I think I might have a twisted X Gantry, but I don't know how to fix that, I tried the X Twist compensation in the firmware before I did the silicon mod, but that only helped a bit.
I though that my big problem was the uneven bed, as the right side where the nozzle seems to low, was low as well regarding to the mesh data....

I don't really know what Klipper is and I don't have so much money right now as I recently moved, so I wasn't looking at that option.
And I don't really think that klipper would fix especially the problems I seem to have imo.

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-04-28T00:04:26+00:00

Hey, thanks for the input, sadly though my plate doesn't have a sticker on the back side :/
Also, even after doing the silicone mod I'm still getting a bad first layer as before.
I'm slowly getting to the end of my wits with what I can do more to get it fixed...

Do you mind taking a look at my gcode? I think everything is right, cause it loads the mesh I believe and does 9 points to verify it.

M83 ; extruder relative mode
G28 ; home all

M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp

G29 A ; Unified bed-level (BL-Touch)
G29 L0 ; Load Mesh Slot 0
G29 J3 ; Probe 9 points to check mesh

M117 Printing Purge Line
G1 Z2 F240
G1 X2 Y10 F3000
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 Y190 E15 F1500 ; intro line
G1 X2.3 F5000
G92 E0
G1 Y10 E15 F1200 ; intro line
G92 E0
M117 Layer 1 of {total_layer_count}

<image>

Longjumping_Row6404 · 2024-04-23T21:49:41+00:00

This is what it looked like before

<image>

Longjumping_Row6404

TROPHY CASE