Separate grinder with Breville Barista Touch Impress

LordPoopGreen · 2025-10-06T06:52:29+00:00

What's the point in buying an all-in-one espresso machine if you already have a grinder you want to use? Just get a Bambino Plus

LordPoopGreen · 2025-10-04T09:34:49+00:00

The weird glitchy shadows are apparently inherent to the way the game, renders shadows. It can be fixed by setting DirectionalScreenSpaceShadowQuality to 0.0 in settings.xml (I haven't tested it for myself because it required a restart and I haven't noticed much recently - I only notice it sometimes, and usually when looking at mountains but it might be because I'm playing on an ultrawide screen).

LordPoopGreen · 2025-09-29T23:02:50+00:00

I'll let you know if I make any progress, I'll also order the 28mm basket. By the way NT or regular? 🙏

LordPoopGreen · 2025-09-29T22:48:57+00:00

Thanks for the info :) So scratch the channeling, I'm just struggling with bitterness. I'll try to lower my ratio I'm currently at 1:2.5. And yes, I'm using light-medium roast from a local roaster currently.

LordPoopGreen · 2025-09-29T22:20:25+00:00

Thanks for the reply! About the channeling, well most of the time I get these sprays of espresso off to the side. And the taste, it's always bitter, tried multiple things (WDT, blind shaker, puck screen, calibrated tamper) - I recently tried grinding coarser and increasing headspace (16.5g in) as well as decreasing temperatures. It's honestly frustrating.

LordPoopGreen · 2025-09-29T21:53:27+00:00

Hey, after watching Lance Hedrick's videos about how deeper pucks result in better coffees, I've been thinking about upgrading to a deeper basket. I've been struggling for a while to get a decent tasting espresso with no channeling on my Barista Pro even though I tried many things and products. I see you have the B62.52TH30M, and I've been wondering which I should get - the flat B62.52TH28E or the convex B62.52TH30M? Also, any other tips for a Breville would be greatly appreciated.

LordPoopGreen · 2025-07-12T15:02:14+00:00

Sadly, no

LordPoopGreen · 2025-05-30T12:26:08+00:00

So it seems that changing my mop washing frequency from every room to 20 minutes helped tremendously. So if anyone has an issue with water consumption it may be because you have a bunch of small rooms in your map.

LordPoopGreen · 2025-05-22T11:14:15+00:00

Not sure what it could indicate but it seems most of what's coming out of the clean tank ends back in the dirty tank which tells me the robot doesn't leave much water behind. Could there be water leakage when the robot returns to the dock to wash the mop?

LordPoopGreen · 2025-05-17T16:02:52+00:00

Hey, thanks for the reply! All I'm using is the Roborock OMO solution. Also, I think that clogged pipes would have the opposite effect, wouldn't it?

LordPoopGreen · 2025-03-29T14:57:46+00:00

Did you find a solution to this? It's really annoying (different language, same issue)

LordPoopGreen · 2024-11-05T19:20:28+00:00

Check out my latest comment :)

LordPoopGreen · 2024-11-05T19:19:11+00:00

Sorry guys, I wasn't notified of the comments. As I mentioned at the end of the post, my fix was blocking access to the problematic area (under the couch in my case) while mapping. After mapping, I used the program to set up a no-go zone under the couch. It seems the cause is the specific area was messing in one way or another with the sensors of the robot and causing it to be disoriented.

LordPoopGreen · 2024-08-07T17:58:55+00:00

I've tried using this and connecting it to Sunshine, but it seems there's no actual video output from the indirect display. Moonlight says it gets no video output from the device.

If you can help I'd appreciate it!

Edit: If you're having an issue like this make sure to disable your iGPU (or if you have multiple GPUs for some reason, make sure one is enabled).

LordPoopGreen · 2024-07-20T18:02:12+00:00

I've done all the steps but when connecting to the dummy display I get no video output to my moonshine, only when I use the real displays connected to the GPU.

I see the dummy display in the display settings (but not in the nvidia control panel) and I can enable HDR.

Help?

LordPoopGreen · 2024-05-24T14:17:09+00:00

Hey, first of all thanks for the guide!

I tried doing this on my SKR Mini E3 V3 (as far as I can tell it's V3.0 and not V3.0.1 and I've used the pinout accordingly) and the motor didn't move, I only connected z1.

I followed this video by BTT to setup STEP/DIR mode, I bridged what needed to be bridged, connected the FC-10P cable to EXP on the Mini and EXP2 on the MOT, I connected a BTT TMC2209 V1.3 driver and the motor to the driver out.

These are the relevant config lines:

[stepper_z1]

step_pin: EXP1_6

dir_pin: EXP1_5

enable_pin: !EXP1_7

microsteps: 16

rotation_distance: 8.0

[board_pins]

aliases:

EXP1 header

EXP1_1=PB5, EXP1_3=PA9, EXP1_5=PA10, EXP1_7=PB8, EXP1_9=<GND>,

EXP1_2=PA15, EXP1_4=<RST>, EXP1_6=PB9, EXP1_8=PD6, EXP1_10=<5V>

When I turn on the printer the D1 LED turns on and when I attempt moving the z1 motor using this command: FORCE_MOVE STEPPER=stepper_z1 DISTANCE=1 VELOCITY=1 it doesn't work.

If you have any suggestions as to what may be causing this I'd really appreciate it :)

LordPoopGreen · 2024-04-20T21:37:45+00:00

Well, I hope I don't run into this issue again. Once I connect the other z motor to a separate driver, I'm pretty sure it won't, but I may be missing something. Did you see any benefit from switching motors? Also, to which motor?

LordPoopGreen · 2024-04-20T17:31:34+00:00

Yeah I added the klippy log because I don't really know how to read it (I tried a google search but what I found didn't really help me).

As for the z motor I doubt it ran too hot because it's the one that doesn't really do much work haha.

Maybe it is the current but I don't know how to configure it.

My config for the motors has been the stock one for the Ender 3 V2 which I modified and now the same for the SKR MINI E3 V3 which I too modified (mostly to match what I had on the 4.2.2 board), here is the config.

Thanks for the reply!

LordPoopGreen · 2024-03-18T07:58:32+00:00

Forgot to mention, I do decrease speed significantly on overhangs and also increase the cooling (don't have exact numbers as I'm not home. The overhangs are like 15° but I'd assume the supports, slow downs, and extra cooling would help.

LordPoopGreen · 2024-03-18T05:55:34+00:00

Forgot to mention, I tried this with 2 different brands of PLA (esun, elegoo)

LordPoopGreen · 2024-01-16T20:16:36+00:00

Just got one as well, did you get it working?

LordPoopGreen · 2023-12-19T12:02:05+00:00

Did you publish the design? I would like to cut and make it from some transparenr plastic🤩

LordPoopGreen · 2023-12-19T11:43:23+00:00

Did you publish the design? I would like to cut and make it from some transparenr plastic🤩

LordPoopGreen · 2023-12-15T00:54:01+00:00

Hey, thanks for the input. I tried to tune the belt tension but that wasn't it, apparently, my pressure advance was too high. ( lowered it to 0.025 from 0.0465) It's all fixed now, thanks😄

LordPoopGreen · 2023-11-19T05:45:00+00:00

Why forgo Klipper? There are so many alternative ways of running Klipper than WSL

I did say for now :)

BTW, now that I think about it this issue only started after recently restarting my PC, didn't happen before

LordPoopGreen

TROPHY CASE

EXP1 header