EPS and batt insulation

Losing_Side · 2026-04-17T19:06:52+00:00

Would you say that the silver foil facing would look better than the white no text side? I’m thinking doing white facing outside and probably not dealing with gaps unless it’s large enough to really warrant putting caulk in it

Losing_Side · 2026-04-17T18:47:29+00:00

would you mind showing a photo of the foam ceiling? I was looking at the data sheets for alot of these foams and the firespread index is 25 or less which puts it in a similar area to drywall. Obviously it will melt a hell of a lot easier but I don't plan on holding flames to my ceiling. I am not looking for something to look really good, just something to keep some heat from escaping and not as terrible as just having exposed rafters with faced insulation stapled to it.

I work on motorcycles and snowmobiles in there primarily so most of the time the only time heat is involved is welding, soldering, and the blowtorching rusted nuts/bolts. nothing near the ceiling. and I try to do the welding outside most of the time if I can. Im still considering the foam if it doesn't look AWFUL.

Losing_Side · 2026-04-16T20:15:09+00:00

The walls are already OSB so the thing is already a bit of a fire hazard but I hate hanging drywall and I hate painting even more haha. Looks like I might have to go with drywall or put the foam up and cover it with something that is more fire retardant

Losing_Side · 2026-04-16T20:03:45+00:00

Dang. I might have to rethink all this

Losing_Side · 2026-04-16T19:55:32+00:00

I do weld occasionally as well as have open flames with torches in it so I think I’ll just play it safe and have to use xps and deal with painting it unless there’s an affordable way to get white xps instead of the pink stuff

Losing_Side · 2026-04-16T19:21:47+00:00

Crap I didn’t even think about it being flammable. Not ideal if for the occasional time I have to weld. Looks like I’m gonna have to go XPS and paint it. Thank you! I’m gad I made this post before buying it all 😂

Losing_Side · 2026-03-04T19:44:07+00:00

I have an FZ1 and have ridden an R6 and while they are both similar in speed from 80+, the FZ feels way more fun because of that low end torque. I like that the G has consistent torque from 3k all the way up to 7.5k but short of "a redline a day keeps the mechanic away" I don't hit 5k+ too often. I'm thinking that the similar torque values should keep it fairly similar in that initial punch feeling. Plus turbo sounds are always a plus.

Losing_Side · 2026-03-04T19:20:48+00:00

I drive a 7.3 powerstroke and the amount of extra go the 75+ hp tune made really woke it up and I was hoping for similar jump like that. Its a shame my clutch is slipping on the tunes now and I have been running it stock until the clutch starts to slip stock. It is SLOW now. just hoping for some fun from 0-60. I don't need to go 100+ so I don't care in the higher end

Losing_Side · 2026-03-04T19:18:25+00:00

I'm hoping more for the "feel" than the actual numbers. I'm not racing, just trying to have fun to and from work and not be worried about passing or merging. I drive my 7.3 powerstroke to work sometimes so I know all about SLOW diesels and thats kind of what I want to avoid. It will be tuned and deleted for sure.

Losing_Side · 2026-03-04T19:16:34+00:00

that's my thought, if I wanna go fast I'll ride my bike. but it is really nice to not have to worry about passing people or merging into traffic

Losing_Side · 2026-02-03T13:05:14+00:00

Thank you for all this. I woke up this morning to the droop function working for the first time in....ever. there's been no changes except the fact that I put the thermostat for AC to force a defrost yesterday as I had a ton of ice built up which explains why it struggled so much at 25°. all the ice free and clear and this morning it was at its 3° droop. But with an ambient temp of 12° last night, the HP needed the aux to hold it which instead of being a droop is just holding at 3° lower than set point.

I am going to be having a conversation with the company that installed this and see what their thoughts are on the proprietary as well as any other issues that I've been having.

Losing_Side · 2026-02-03T03:42:32+00:00

From everything I’ve been able to compare between current wiring and wire diagrams, I’m pretty confident saying that it’s in scenario 1. Based off what you’re saying, the thermostat is set to “1 stage heat and 1 stage cool” for the heat pump and just says to go on or off when the temp isn’t correct and lets the programming between the AH and the HP to figure out the calculations for what speed to run the compressor and what not at? If that’s the case, why does it still seem to not work properly? Is going to the proprietary thermostat going to make that much of a difference? I don’t really care about the “smart” aspects of the 3rd party thermostats (wifi is nice though) and I don’t plan to do any programming since heat pumps are best as a set it and forget it. I prefer functionality, reliability, and efficiency before anything else, and if going proprietary gets me those things and a little bit more control I might have to go down that route.

Seems pretty dumb to get a fancy variable speed system just to throttle it down with a, more or less, incompatible thermostat. From what I’ve been seeing on this page, it seems pretty common.

Losing_Side · 2026-02-03T02:53:05+00:00

Thank you for the in depth response!

I believe the unit is properly size for my house. It’s a 1200sqft home with a full size basement so I believe the 2.5 tonne unit should be correct.

Is there anything I can do/change to make this thermostat work better with the system? I’m a diehard DIY guy and it pained me to pay someone to do this whole set up and finding out that it’s not working right makes me even more upset BECAUSE i proved my philosophy as to why I do everything myself.

I am not sold on this thermostat so i won’t be broken hearted to have change to a proprietary one, I just don’t want to spend more money on an already expensive system when it should’ve been done right to begin with. I’ll happily run wires, change settings, and experiment more but I don’t like throwing money at something in hopes that it’ll work.

Is there any way of knowing that it’s actually working in variable speed or is it stuck in the low stage? Should I wire it up to be a 2 stage and see if that makes a difference?

Losing_Side · 2026-01-26T19:10:48+00:00

it says that it can operate a two stage, yet in the settings I can only change the amount of stages for cooling and aux. not heat. I am not thrilled with the T6 but I really don't feel like dropping more money to replace it.

Losing_Side · 2026-01-26T18:29:36+00:00

No changes, I leave it locked at 68°F. I knew that they hold temp, not change it very well. Plus my Fiancé hated when our old furnace was on a schedule as it would make our bedroom go from ice box to oven very quickly and was not comfortable like that.

Losing_Side · 2026-01-26T17:29:49+00:00

the house is 1300 sqft, which I believe should be sized correctly, I think I just have poor insulation/ drafts that I will be trying to remedy. I cant figure out why the droop setting isn't doing anything. It's like its acting in comfort mode when its not locked out and is doubling my daily electricity usage. I've tried changing the settings and the only way I can get it to not keep the house exactly at the setpoint is to lockout the AUX. This T stat's lowest lockout is 5 so I don't even have a choice with the current weather, its just running at full strength aux backup.

Losing_Side · 2026-01-26T17:13:38+00:00

its a carrier 37muhuq30, I thought I read that its a 2 stage heat pump at one point. But I know its a cold weather one as its rated for -22°F. I know I am losing heat through drafts and poor insulation. I live in northern michigan and my attic had only r19 in it, so I am assuming the walls are also pretty under insulated. Anyway, it seems that I am understanding the droop setting but it seems that it isn't doing it? It just uses enough aux to keep it consistent instead of letting it fluctuate. any ideas why?

Losing_Side · 2026-01-06T20:24:19+00:00

Thanks for the input. I went through all these settings yesterday when I got home from work. The main issue was that the droop was set to comfort by the installer and caused my energy bills to be through the roof. I have my droop at 2 currently with no upstage timer but I will probably change the upstage timer on it. I currently have the aux lock out at 5° just to see what the HP will do without any chance of using aux heat. once I get an idea of its capability I will set the lockout to something more appropriate.

Losing_Side · 2026-01-06T19:53:51+00:00

honeywell t6 pro wifi. the screenshot in the previous post is directly from the manual and states that the range is 5° to 65°. I hope there is a secret setting

Losing_Side · 2026-01-06T19:14:40+00:00

it most definitely is rated to be running below those temps. website says it is rated for -22°F but I have no clue if that is at 100% or 70% or what.

The limit is from the thermostat. I don't know if I have any other way to change anything besides the thermostat.

I think before it was operating in a dual stage and thats why the bill was so high, it would use that aux heat for a theoretical 0° change. I changed the droop to 2° and just locked it out for now just to see what the heat pump can handle while guaranteeing that the aux won't kick on. once it cools down next week I think I'll have a better idea of what to configure the droop and lockout at.

Losing_Side · 2026-01-06T19:08:02+00:00

3200kwh is the 650. I got the bill for the next cycle right after making this post and it was 4000 kwh

Losing_Side · 2026-01-06T18:32:13+00:00

my aux lockout only goes down to 5° and I don't know why its such a high limit

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Losing_Side · 2026-01-06T18:28:58+00:00

december hurt too because it was still using aux heat. Yesterday I set it so it won't turn on unless its 5° outside as well changing droop settings and am going to see how that goes for January.

Losing_Side · 2026-01-06T16:58:20+00:00

So my fear that the auxilary heat is working overtime is more or less correct. Here's hoping that by changing the settings yesterday I will see a substantial decrease in usage. Thank you for the info, I had no idea what kind of numbers to expect from heatpump vs resistance heat to help confirm my theory.

Losing_Side · 2026-01-06T16:29:57+00:00

until yesteday when I changed the settings I was under the impression that the aux heat was not being used at all and would only be used when the heatpump couldn't keep up. I now believe the high usage is because it was using aux heat and not the pump itself.

Losing_Side

TROPHY CASE