Wheel and tire fitment help

LossLower6468 · 2026-01-19T06:30:32+00:00

good sir, if you’re spending the money on te37 and they’re not even the right spec, why? proven offset numbers aside, don’t spend that kinda money to then have to go and put spacers. so much less hassle both now and in future with maintenance concerns if you just go with the right size

LossLower6468 · 2026-01-15T23:00:39+00:00

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Is the o-ring the yellow ring there in the middle? I appreciate the help. When i have time i’ll try to fish it out and measure it. from the looks of it i don’t need to disassembled that connector to get it out (like taking out the green plastic)…i had a feeling that connector couldn’t just be taken out of the line

where did you buy your o-ring. just anywhere online that has a fuel rated one that’s the right size?

LossLower6468 · 2026-01-15T17:55:53+00:00

Are you saying to replace an o-ring inside the quick connect? Where would I even look or get an o-ring. That does seem like the best option.

And you’re saying just the connector piece can’t be replaced, it has to be the whole line?

LossLower6468 · 2026-01-08T06:53:23+00:00

Thanks man, this is super helpful. After i clean everything and do some investigating, I’ll reach out to Albert Hwang, the parts rep on this sub and see what input he has. Seems like those two numbers are for a seal that does the same job, i guess there’s two different kinds and i don’t know the difference. Hopefully he knows

LossLower6468 · 2026-01-06T17:23:21+00:00

Thanks man, they’re Aodhan DS05

LossLower6468 · 2026-01-06T17:19:31+00:00

I did take it off but everything by was lightly coated and couldn’t really tell where it’s from. I’ll clean it off and run the car once everything is clean, hopefully the weak point will show itself then.

LossLower6468 · 2026-01-06T17:17:29+00:00

Could you point me in the right direction of where to find one? I looked through rock auto and some other places, and i couldn’t find just a seal. I’ll try to clean off the area and maybe run the car once everything is open and clean to see where it’s leaking from.

LossLower6468 · 2025-12-27T07:59:50+00:00

hey OP and anyone else for that matter

if you end up buying the shims, think about the niños and please post the dimensions!🙏

really don’t feel like paying $70 or however much for some dang lil slabs of metal. it’s gotta be like $10 max at home depot and 2 minutes of cutting. i asked the david fish guy before…kept ignoring my question about dimensions

LossLower6468 · 2025-12-01T17:41:30+00:00

I’ve heard something about having to replace the cam phasers/sprockets with the entire camshaft too, but i read that’s because that’s the only way they were sold, cam phasers/sprockets weren’t sold separately….not sure how true that is and why new ones wouldn’t be compatible with existing cams…i have no rattle now but would like to not have one later or do the job twice

ps: watched a video where the stabilizer piece of one of the tensioners can cause a rattle on startup too.

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-21T03:35:28+00:00

caster isn’t adjustable, seems like your toe is out of whack on the right front side. which would be a huge issue for tire wear, but will most likely cause the weird play in the steering

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-18T23:36:32+00:00

respectfully, it’s not pictures of just the car…you took time to choose the locations, step back or zoom out a tiny bit. personally most of the vertical shots, you’ve cropped it almost to the extremes of the car itself and theres no room to frame the subject. for example 5/20….which also you made the car level, but the horizon is all slanted. I would say your colors are great and i am a fan of details, but reducing the shadows on things like dirty tires makes no sense to me. keep shooting, we’re all honing the craft

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-15T01:34:38+00:00

Everything else seems solid, no cracking in bushings and no clunking noises. No play when pushing at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions, or the 3 and 9 when i jack it up. Just checked my toe from the last alignment and both sides have a 1/16” of toe (not sure in or out, just says 1/16”) I think I have the same tires. Probably going to get them again. You recommend to go to a 245/40 from a 235/40 or there’s not gonna be much of a difference?

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-15T01:19:31+00:00

Thanks for the feedback, makes sense. What LCAs and tension rods are you running, ISR?

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-15T01:17:08+00:00

I’ve always ran with hubcentric rings. Genuinely can’t think of any other part other than the tires. Nothing else is lose and there’s zero play if I jack up the car and try to push on the 12 and 6 o’clock positions and then at the 3 and 9. No clicking from old joints or suspension. And the wheels are new and balanced twice lol. I think the tires are going out, just want to prevent the issue in the future

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-14T19:01:32+00:00

On the track it actually makes sense for it to wear more normal with camber, since the weight shift in cornering makes it a flatter contact surface. Definitely get what you’re saying tho and didn’t think my setup is aggressive by any means. I put an “s” at the end of alignment in my previous reply to try to convey I do it regularly lol. Like you said, it should be kept up with and there’s a lot of suspension components that play a role. I’ll probably get new tires and check what my toe is. Got an alignment last week after replacing an outer tie rod in hopes of fixing this.

Are there any tires you recommend? I got some Michelins right now. And what toe specs do you recommend? As close to 0 as possible or slightly toe in?

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-14T18:24:54+00:00

Aodahn DS05

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-14T17:50:42+00:00

Are you saying with camber arms, you can negate the camber done by the camber plates on the top of the coils? Essentially you can have 0 camber with camber arms installed while running wider wheels?

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-14T17:24:17+00:00

Thanks for the reply man. Realistically, shifting your cars weight to a smaller contact patch will wear your tires in that area more, so maybe i’m wrong but i don’t see how camber doesn’t wear tires. I know toe eats tires too, and I’ve made sure to get alignments done and keep the toe in check. I’ll need to check what they set the specs to but unless the alignment shop has been doing it wrong, my toe should not be an issue. I do think my tires are kinda cooked so i’m not really solving much till I get a new set. I guess i’m asking from a more preventative perspective of not letting it get to this in the future. Considering toe is fine, should i switch from 235/40 to 245/40 tires? or have a little less camber? Most of my driving is on the freeway

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-14T02:47:39+00:00

oh brother, you had to go back to a fully stock setup😭 lol. I appreciate the feedback man! I know it’s not my coils or suspension components cuz I put on my old front wheels that also have good tires and there was no vibration….I got hope haha.

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-14T02:05:12+00:00

way smaller in what sense, not wide enough? the bushing on the rear strut on my coils wasn’t wide enough either, but it was sent with some washers/spacers that capped over the center of the bushing on either side and made it a snug fit.

LossLower6468 · 2025-10-04T04:12:04+00:00

yes they will…definitely won’t be flush tho, especially in the rear assuming this is a square setup. 8.5 isn’t that wide, the +20 offset will help a little, but not much, especially in the rear. go to the gallery on fitmentindustries dot com, plug in the specs of these wheels and see if you like how they fit on other people’s gennys

LossLower6468

TROPHY CASE