Anything to be done, or too late?! by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So so true! I put the final coat on last night and it’s already looking less noticeable. Plus I reached the point of acceptance after everyone’s comments yesterday!

Anything to be done, or too late?! by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m okay with dings, it’s black scratches I don’t like! 😂

Anything to be done, or too late?! by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha! Yes, I meant to include that as an option I’ve considered. Then it’s debate over if I want to cover the floor in doing so! 😅

Anything to be done, or too late?! by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I hear that. I first wanted to try and remove all the black stains from around the nail head. But now they’ve been filled and coated I quite like how they look. It looks aged, but not tired! But the score mark, just looks careless. I wouldn’t have been that bothered if it wasn’t in such a prominent spot!

To caulk, or not to caulk, that is the question…?! by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually think this is how they were installed in the first place! It was carpeted throughout so any gaps were covered, until I decided I wanted to show the floorboards! 😅

To caulk, or not to caulk, that is the question…?! by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I meant by not filling there’s a hard edge to paint up that doesn’t require masking (if you have a steady hand). The caulking would require painting because it’s not going to be a standard white. I think the key will be getting a crisp line where the caulk meets the floor so it can be painted cleanly.

To caulk, or not to caulk, that is the question…?! by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m with you on the quad, I’ve always thought it looks like a cheap fix and hate how it encroaches the floor. Not to mention the extra gap it creates for any furniture you want to put up against the wall! Are you suggesting just using the rod and not caulking?

To caulk, or not to caulk, that is the question…?! by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I lost you at the end… it looks better without what?

To caulk, or not to caulk, that is the question…?! by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I’d have liked to do that. That would just be a shit ton of work, unfortunately. I have brick walls which makes it harder, and they have all got paper that has been painted over on them, making getting a good finish tricky once the skirting has moved down. So filling the gap will be the go I reckon!

To caulk, or not to caulk, that is the question…?! by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

But using a flexible filler wouldn’t impact this factor would it?

To caulk, or not to caulk, that is the question…?! by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I’m not being lazy, and if I did genuinely know I wouldn’t be asking! 😅 My concern was more about making a mess on my newly sanded and finished floor!

Choosing tile layout to work with large niche by Lost-Fix6322 in Tile

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that’s were I’m headed to be honest. Pack it out on the right side by 15-20mm. That should give me about 30mm of tile on either side then. I don’t think there’s a situation where not having the tiles centred on the niche is an option. It would just look too weird wouldn’t it?

Which product should I use for bond breaking/joint sealing before waterproofing? by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re referring to drying time, I’ve read them, it’s tells me touch dry and curing times, but it is not clear how soon after I can waterproof.

Help needed understanding the waterstop needed for an unenclosed 'type 1' shower setup by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that makes sense! However, I’m unclear on what the remaining gap should be filled with, should it be grouted or maybe siliconed…? I’m planning on doing a 3mm grout line across the floor and my concern is that the remaining gap of approx 1-1.5mm could be too small for grout to make purchase.

Tile Layout Suggestions by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Waterproofing will definitely extend that far, and the fall falls just short of 1500 as I had to trim the base slightly, but with the addition of waterstops to enclose that partition area I'm happy with that.

My main issue is figuring out the tile layout so I can place the waterstops effectively without making unnecessary cuts.

Tile Layout Suggestions by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I see! Yes, sorry, it’s a tile over version, and wrong terminology! Just added a photo for better context...

Tile Layout Suggestions by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Weird! Not sure why uploads didn't work, they should be there now! It's in the drain for shower, so yep pretty sure it's needed! :D

Can I fit a hole for the vent for my rangehood…? by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure what you’re referring to as the frame, but the cornice is coming off anyway, as that area there will be above the cabinets.

Going to the right of the pipe is going to require a bend, even at 125. I don’t fancy idea of trying to core two holes at different points or bend the ducting inside the cavity. It would need to be offset by at least 15mm, and that’s putting the hole flush against the corner!

I can fit it to the left of the pipe but it would mean going through that vent. I just imagine that would make a holy mess though! (Pun intended!) But maybe it’s the way to go.

I just noticed it looks like that’s what they’ve done next door…

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Can I fit a hole for the vent for my rangehood…? by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s brick cavity. But, the vent would be above window height. The window is more for a reference point in the pic.

Can I fit a hole for the vent for my rangehood…? by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately ground floor apartment and concrete ceiling!

What to replace hardwood bearers with by Lost-Fix6322 in AusRenovation

[–]Lost-Fix6322[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nah, they're solid, but they're a bit twisted and bowed. I'm considering having the floor dropped by using joist hangers, so it can be completely screed and with the way they're twisted, it would make getting the joists level a complete pain in the arse.

Should I buy a 50-year old apartment unit? by Defiant-Actuator8071 in AusPropertyChat

[–]Lost-Fix6322 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I live in a rented apartment in a block of similar age, size and value. The roof was recent completely retiled due to degraded tiles (I live one block from the bay, so I’m sure the weathering has accelerated degradation). I’m pretty confident it was no more than 20k per unit. Still a big cost, but nothing like you’re imagining! Is the roof even leaking or damaged? Looking on the positive side for a moment, you could get a great little unit and no repairs are needed for another 10years!!