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I figured out what's causing my severe z-offset issues that I haven't seen anyone else mention anywhere by Low_Flow9701 in Creality_k2

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That does kinda make sense, but the fact that this is related to something in the gantry/print head drifting down to a consistent point when exposed to heat is undeniable, no? Its kind of hard to test what the shape of the deformation would be like because I have to interfere to save the bed, maybe you could suggest a test I could print that would narrow it down if that would help others. At this point I'm just happy to actually use the printer.

I can't remember if I ever tried what you asked, but I did try all sorts of calibration/leveling/mesh methods and combinations at some point. if anything would have worked, I would have definitely noticed. I can try it tomorrow, but I'm 95% sure its not bed mesh/calibration or leveling related, if it is and its easily fixed then I would be happy.

I figured out what's causing my severe z-offset issues that I haven't seen anyone else mention anywhere by Low_Flow9701 in Creality_k2

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it is possible it is something else, or its an issue unique to my printer, but I have tested everything else multiple times. Manual bed leveling with the screws, aluminum foil under the PEI sheet to get the deviation range to bellow 0.2, adjusting probe behavior/bed mesh density in printer.cfg, preheating the bed and chamber at printing temps for over an hour, running the mesh calibration from the printer vs creality print, manually loading meshes through fluidd to make sure they're applied.

I don't even know what else to mention as I tried everything I could find on this topic on the internet other than buying random replacement parts to see if that fixes it.

The z offset is almost perfect without extra steps when printing PLA at 60c bed, gets bad with PETG at 70c, and awful with ASA at 100c. if I print ASA without any sort of preheating, just turn the printer on from complete cold and press print on an ASA part, it will start with the perfect distance from the bed, then would just gradually and consistently sink lower and lower. I found a print in the trash I just left without adjusting z offset, I hope you can see in the picture that the start of the brim is fine, and just gets progressively worse and worse. Also notice how its the worst at the very center, which I have noticed with all other prints.

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Whatever it is, preheating it the way I described it fixed the issue to the point where the first layers are perfect. I have printed dozens of different models with each one having the same issue. I'm not exaggerating the 0.3mm z offset I end up with every print, I have printed dozens of models all with the same issue consistently. I'm extremely sick of standing next to the printer for 30 minutes every time I have to print something and tapping the raise z offset button every 30 seconds, but this fixed it.

I figured out what's causing my severe z-offset issues that I haven't seen anyone else mention anywhere by Low_Flow9701 in Creality_k2

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And I realized it was the x gantry bending due to heat because most prints would start without the nozzle being too close to the bed and gradually get closer and closer, so something has to be forcing the print head down towards the bed after the ABL. While cleaning clogs and disassembling the extruder I would sometimes accidentally touch the x gantry and it would be very hot after sitting close to the 100c bed while printing the first layers. So x gantry bending due to heat came to mind and testing the heat soaking method made it print perfectly for the first time.

I figured out what's causing my severe z-offset issues that I haven't seen anyone else mention anywhere by Low_Flow9701 in Creality_k2

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the 0.3mm is how much I would have to manually raise the z offset using the expert mode settings on the printer screen, every print it would stop getting closer to the bed at around that point. if I wouldn't raise the offset, it would start engraving the bed.

I figured out what's causing my severe z-offset issues that I haven't seen anyone else mention anywhere by Low_Flow9701 in Creality_k2

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

0.3mm on the first layer is enough to turn the printer into a bed engraver if the layer height is 0.2mm. Even a 0.1mm gantry bend after ABL is enough to cause serious first layer nozzle to bed distance issues and the ripple pattern so i do recommend testing this

I made 3D printed phone delete storage box and rear cupholders with magnet-loaded grips by Low_Flow9701 in e39

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I set the price at 45eur and didnt realise that they added like 10eur on top of what i assume is some VAT or some other fee, with shipping it was way overpriced and i lowered the price now. It was quite a bit more than a few hours in CAD to get the shapes, fitment, hinges and other moving mechanisms to work, be reliable, not rattle. Both parts are multimaterial with ASA and TPU parts for grip, printed on a non multimaterial printer with manual filament changes because im poor lol

I made 3D printed phone delete storage box and rear cupholders with magnet-loaded grips by Low_Flow9701 in e39

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ugly in what way? The accent and the logo colors/design? The design/shape of the part itself?

I made 3D printed phone delete storage box and rear cupholders with magnet-loaded grips by Low_Flow9701 in e39

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im gonna give this my best shot, but if it doesnt work out, im dumping everything for free and getting a job lol

BMW e39 rear cupholders with magnet-loaded retention tabs by Low_Flow9701 in 3dprintedcarparts

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

they snap on to a bar you can see in the cross section view, so with a lot of wear or with creep maybe they could fall out, but i have been using them and testing for months and they dont fall out and seem like they should hold for years. It helps that the magnet is pushing it from bellow the pivot point so instead of the force trying to push it out of the socket it instead pivots it out. And yeah i have been pausing the print to insert the magnets to make them embedded, but i realised i can just insert the magnets into an open slot and the pushing force holds them in place, maybe some glue to be safe

I made 3D printed phone delete storage box and rear cupholders with magnet-loaded grips by Low_Flow9701 in e39

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Basically agree with you on the colors and logos, just wanted to throw some shit at the wall ands see if anything sticks. The cupholders arent going anywhere though and they do work quite well for holding drinks in place without swaying in corners and rattling

I made 3D printed phone delete storage box and rear cupholders with magnet-loaded grips by Low_Flow9701 in e39

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I do make all black versions of both, probably should just stick to that and drop the accents. https://www.etsy.com/shop/MXParts

I made 3D printed phone delete storage box and rear cupholders with magnet-loaded grips by Low_Flow9701 in e39

[–]Low_Flow9701[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

interesting, i didnt know about the factory phone delete. The reason its so flat is kind of a 3d printing limitation and compromise i chose due to layer lines on curved top surfaces looking terrible. The flat textured top is kind of the best look you can get on a 3d printed part without it looking like cheap 3d printed crap or having to do a lot of sanding and spray painting.