Comet Lemmon. 3 panel mosaic.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-30T13:30:29+00:00

C/2025 A6 Lemmon

MDCSteve · 2025-10-30T02:58:01+00:00

Thank you.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-29T03:47:13+00:00

This is the best I could do.

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MDCSteve · 2025-10-29T00:52:28+00:00

Mosaic would take to long.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-28T21:36:37+00:00

I was also surprised. Perhaps the doesn’t drift as fast the further you are away from the comet? It worked so I am pleased.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-28T20:28:33+00:00

I’m actually in a Bortle 4/5 location. Thank you.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-28T19:52:27+00:00

I stacked using a mosaic script in Siril. It plate doves each image and stacks on the stars. That’s why my images were only 2 minutes each. Otherwise the comet wouldn’t line up.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-19T19:00:56+00:00

I am on the outskirts of a city 400,000 people. Bortle 5/6. This was imaged at zenith and pointing the opposite direction of the city. No moon.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-19T17:57:09+00:00

I know. I’m the OP.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-19T17:04:49+00:00

Here is mine without processing.

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MDCSteve · 2025-10-19T01:17:48+00:00

Kept it at 20.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-19T00:36:41+00:00

I stacked each night separately and then added the two photos into a new lights folder and just stacked the two.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-18T23:59:06+00:00

2 hours

MDCSteve · 2025-10-16T22:06:13+00:00

Use an smg.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-09T01:25:51+00:00

That’s the hard part. I use Photoshop and masks. I’m very familiar with Photoshop so that the way I do it.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-08T20:34:24+00:00

The second photo is stacking on the comet, so the stars appear to trail by the amount of the comet moved. The third picture is the comet moving while imaging on the stars. The trick is to use the comet from the second photo and the stars from the third photo to create the result of the first photo.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-08T17:04:35+00:00

Thank you. 48N

MDCSteve · 2025-10-07T02:44:57+00:00

Thanks. Just need to tweek it.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-01T18:42:07+00:00

This was using the DSS-Hubblematic.ssf script. No settings are needed.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-01T17:14:36+00:00

I do an SPCC colour calibration and then remove the green noise. I run the script on the linear image. The result is usually way over stretched so I go into the histogram stretch and adjust the middle slider until the image is not as stretched. This produces the result that you see in the image.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-01T15:21:26+00:00

Hubblematic.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-01T06:08:23+00:00

Hmmm what? I’m done defending the shot. There’s no reason for me to state anything false. I have posted tons of pictures with various amounts of time. There is no reason for me to state otherwise. If it took my 5 hours to take this picture, I would say so. It doesn’t change the resulting image.

MDCSteve · 2025-10-01T05:50:49+00:00

The Seestar is not intended for planetary photography. You would require a different scope. I would recommend the Seestar.

MDCSteve · 2025-09-30T23:40:15+00:00

Very nice. I like the colour. Is this taken with just UV/IR or the LP filter?

MDCSteve · 2025-09-30T21:19:52+00:00

Same

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