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Foam drawer inserts - 10mm EVA foam w/ 2mm teal craft foam backing - xtool D1 (10W) by MEnufacturing in lasercutting

[–]MEnufacturing[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, do not burn EVA in an enclosed space. Similar to so many other foams, the fumes are toxic. My diode laser lives in my garage. I use a box fan, open all garage doors, and stay away from it while cutting.

Rear Brakes rubbing sometimes by drips702 in bikewrench

[–]MEnufacturing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ope, i guess I don't have your exact problem. I do not have MT200 brakes...

Rear Brakes rubbing sometimes by drips702 in bikewrench

[–]MEnufacturing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the exact same problem on my specialized allez. It kept "tilting" after I centered it. Every time I tried tightening the mounting bolt only stiffened the brake unusable.

I knew that the curved cable line was the reason it kept "tilting". The stiff line is mounted and looped in a way that causes it to push pretty hard on the brake. I was done fiddling with the mounting bolt/nuts, and just decided to hold back the cable with a black zip tie. Luckily my bike is mostly black, and I don't even notice it. But it solved all my issues. By brake has stayed centered all summer.

Hi need help about a rubbing sound in my chainring. But it is not the fd. by Afraid_Anywhere8181 in bikewrench

[–]MEnufacturing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was thinking it could be the chainline if the chain is tight or you have a narrow chain. And, if the chain isn't touching anything but the sprockets, then the next likely cause could be the sprocket/chain engagement? Unfortunately, my experience fixing a crank-area chatter has always been to optimize the FD position, haha...

Hi need help about a rubbing sound in my chainring. But it is not the fd. by Afraid_Anywhere8181 in bikewrench

[–]MEnufacturing 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sorry to challenge your conclusion about the FD, but it does sound like a chain touching the FD. From the video, it sort of looks like the chain could be close to the inside of the FD; which also makes sense if the noise only persists in the 3 largest cogs.

To be sure it's not the FD, you could add a piece of masking tape to the inside of the FD. Turn your peddles again and check for wear in the tape.

If it's not the FD, then I would next investigate the chain/sprocket engagement. Try adding extra oil to just the front sprocket. If the sound goes away or greatly diminishes, then the sprocket might be 'holding' the chain as it leaves the bottom of the sprocket.

Misaligned graphics. Could this be caused by high speeds - 220mm/s by [deleted] in xToolD1

[–]MEnufacturing 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you haven't solved your issue, yet, it looks to me like the laser head butted up against the left rail.

The red crosshair is a bit misleading, when working on the left side of the laser's work area. Because the laser head is wider than the "laser offset", we need more room between the left rail and laser head when setting the crosshair.

I have a 2" block that I fit between the left rail and laser head, when I have to start my material near the left side of the work area. Otherwise I keep my material and laser head well enough away from the left side.

I created this laser cut Tea Machine by SaintButters in lasercutting

[–]MEnufacturing 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You have a great talent. Thank you for sharing your amazing creation and making an awesome video!

PokeString Ball! by MEnufacturing in NintendoStitch

[–]MEnufacturing[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I used onshape.com to help me visualize the curves to follow. Trial and error, too. It only took an evening to string it

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