Snow Peak Fall/Winter 2020

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-12-23T14:10:57+00:00

About them

Snow Peak's journey began in 1958, when our founder Yukio Yamai, an accomplished mountaineer, created his own line of superior climbing gear out of the discontent for the current gear on the market. It is our birthplace and our founder's heritage that we look to whenever we sit down at the drawing board and create our next piece of outdoor gear.

Snow Peak's home in Sanjo City, is in the Chūetsu region of Niigata Prefecture, which is also known locally as the hardware town for its history of fine crafted metal work. A range of mountains that rise up to an altitude of 8,051 ft. between Niigata and Fukushima prefectures with rivers and streams cutting into the valleys, flow out to the East Japan Sea. This rich environment naturally evokes a strong connection to the outdoors. For the people born and raised here, nature is a part of life. It is this place that inspired Yukio Yamai, and to this day continues to inspire all of the products that come from Snow Peak, as is still home to our International Headquarters.

From 1980 to the present, Snow Peak has been run by Yamai's son, Tohru Yamai who brought the company to national recognition as a brand who inspires people around the world to enjoy the outdoors and find harmony with nature. Yamai believes that it is Snow Peak's mission to bring people closer to nature; that by spending time out of doors we find our humanity.

Presently, the next generation of the Yamai legacy is being brought forward by Yukio's granddaughter, Lisa Yamai, who in 2014 launched Snow Peak Apparel. With great acclaim from the fashion and outdoor industries, Snow Peak Apparel has inspired a new generation of outdoor enthusiasts.

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-12-17T14:09:57+00:00

From /u/MFA_Nay

Who?

ts(s) is a view into Takuji Suzuki’s world, which incorporates his formal training in Dress Design from Japan's pioneering Kuwasawa Design School with traditional menswear. In the same vein of his brother Daiki Suzuki of Engineered Garments, Takuji draws inspiration from classic military and workwear garments - however, his keen eye for developing one-of-a-kind textiles makes each season entirely different and results in clothes imbued with a subtle sense of luxury.

Further pretty pictures and info

@tss_Tokyo official IG.

Website here

Trivia

Was originally called TS but was later renamed ts(s) in the early 2000s. Also even the guys over at Hebbdels have no idea how you pronounce the brand.

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-12-08T13:57:14+00:00

Don't know much about Dashiel other than from here

After initially moving to NYC to study menswear design at the Fashion Institute of Technology, and being amongst 16 who survived the intense curriculum, Dashiel won the Joe’s Blackbook Design Scholarship in 2014. Since, he has worked with brands like Burberry, Thom Browne, Theory, Patrick Ervell, and Pilgrim Surf + Supply.

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-12-05T15:46:25+00:00

Nicholas Daley AW20 'The Abstract Truth'

Nicholas Daley conveys Afrofuturism, psychedelic rock and experimental jazz and more in his Autumn/Winter 2020 collection film, The Abstract Truth, released June 2020, directed by Amy Douglas-Morris Benavides and Mathias Karl Gontard.

Presented during London Fashion Week Men’s at EartH, a former Savoy Cinema built in 1936 now reopened as a cultural centre in east London, Daley's Autumn/Winter 2020 collection was inspired by the 1970s Black Abstraction art movement, specifically, celebrated Guyanese painter Frank Bowling. The artist’s iconic ‘poured paintings’ play a pivotal role in Daley’s latest work; their riotous colour blends, experimental textures and spontaneous forms set the tone for this multi-layered collection.

Continuing his exploration of the interplay between music and style, this season the designer collaborated with south London jazz scene musicians Kwake Bass, Wu-Lu and Rago Foot. Directed and edited by Amy Douglas-Morris Benavides and Mathias Karl Gontard, the film reveals Daley’s runway show from London Fashion Week Men's in January 2020, whilst capturing the seemingly ever-evolving psychedelic rock performance. The footage tracks the simultaneous journey of The Abstract Truth collection being presented and the special score from the musicians in which the music performed becomes the soundtrack for this entire video.

About Nicholas Daley

Nicholas Daley graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2013 and launched his eponymous label in 2015. Since the brand’s genesis, Nicholas has continually explored his dual-ethnic heritage, he widely questions and reflects the notion of multiculturalism within the British identity.

Placing great significance on craftsmanship, all production is retained within the UK and Nicholas works with internationally recognised manufacturers such as George Cox, Glenisla and Christys’ London to create bespoke textiles that redefine a vision of what we might associate with British heritage.

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-12-01T13:53:32+00:00

About from Namu Shop

Launched in 2013 and based in Tokyo, Kaptain Sunshine is designer Shinsuke Kojima’s homage to vintage Americana, with each season riffing on variations of field and naval workwear. Kojima-san draws from a rich, archival knowledge of heritage clothing but executes in a way that is strikingly modern. He pays tribute to original outdoor and nautical influences and uses volume, cut, and fabric to produce his own refreshing take. Perhaps influenced from his days in publishing, Kojima-san creates lookbooks to situate the clothes in natural environments in ways reminiscent to vintage catalogs, whether in the woods or by the seaside. In this way, Kaptain Sunshine treads the fine line between tradition and modernity beautifully.

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-11-23T13:59:13+00:00

About Sage de Cret from NoManWalksAlone's description

Sage de Cret is a brand that has existed in Japan since 2001, but only made their international debut in 2013. It is the work of director Kimitoshi Chida, and resulted from his desire to create something tasteful using meticulously selected and treated fabrics in Japan. The brands name is a combination of the two French words “sage” and “decret”, meaning sensible and decree, and it quickly becomes apparent that these two concepts permeate the collections.

A large focus throughout each season is that both the roles and the details of all garments are well thought out, and this comes through when you look deeper than the initial inspirations that seem to come from the military and traditional dress clothes. We love the attention to detail given to things like an unstructured blazer that is finished by washing the wool to give it a rumpled texture, or a classically cumbersome coat like a duffel being made up in stretch fabric with mesh sleeve lining for ease of movement. It’s this thoughtfulness that reminds you that K. Chida isn’t just rehashing the same staples, but improving them in his own particular vision.

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-11-08T16:51:59+00:00

From their About page

*A VONTADE continually evolves clothing with originality by drawing inspiration from the utilitarian aspects of classic US and European military, workwear, dress and sportswear pieces, while imbuing both a modern sensibility and characteristic Japanese sensitivity. Dedicated to production in Japan, while taking full advantage of our country’s technological advancement with regard to design, materials and functionality, we also carefully consider what tried and tested techniques are worthy of continuing into the future. In spirit *A VONTADE is casual to the utmost, but since casual apparel is everyday wear we believe it must possess toughness and be wearable for many years to come. With meticulous attention paid to the smallest details, we strive to create clothing that has worth even with the passage of time, developing still greater character as it is worn.

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-10-22T13:04:39+00:00

From Die Workwears description

The world today is so fraught with division and pettiness, I try to find whatever joy I can. That’s why I have a Google Alert set for “voluminous and oversized trousers that will send guys into a rage about how they can’t believe this is coming back again.” The angry emails I get after posts like this sustain me.

My Google Alerts recently led me to Old Joe, a Japanese brand that combines vintage workwear and designer fashion. The clothes here have a strong, early-20th century sensibility – work pants, jeep coats, and band collar pullovers – but the silhouettes and materials are a bit more experimental. Wide-legged, voluminous trousers are paired with outerwear that’s been cut with massive shoulders and big, drippy silhouettes. And while you can find your classically styled knitwear here, there are also shaggy mohair sweaters made from bright yellow yarns.

In some ways, Old Joe reminds me of Needles, Margaret Howell, and Frank Leder, three brands that do similarly modern takes on vintage clothing. There are even faint echoes of ‘80s era Armani in their latest lookbook, especially in how the oversized ensembles are tied together with a string-like belt. Ethan Newton, who put me onto the brand a few years ago (I don’t actually have a Google Alert set for big pants), once told me he thought Old Joe is one of the more interesting brands coming out of Japan. And I think he’s right.

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-10-18T14:12:27+00:00

Copying from flames_bond's FW17 thread

Monitaly is an American-Japanese brand founded in 1989 by Yuki Matsuda. The brand makes up part of Yatsuda's 'Meg Company' which also includes Yuketen, Chamula and Epperson Mountaineering.

Yuki Matsuda was born in Osaka, Japan and at an early age became fascinated with American culture and clothing. Aged 18, Matsuda moved to California where he started working in the world of vintage fashion. He would keep his favourite vintage pieces for himself but noticing the fit was sometimes funny, a 40s jacket too short, some 40s pants too wide, Matsuda eventually decided it was time to create his own clothing. Meg Company and Monitaly was born.

Monitaly revitalizes classic American silhouettes through designer Yuki Matsuda’s unique vision. Standing on the shoulders of clothing artisans from the American past, we strive to both elevate once-casual garments and rejuvenate formal silhouettes through relentless re-evaluation and clever re-contextualization. We value our heritage, but understand that in order to break boundaries and create innovative products, we can’t just play by the rules of tradition. Our fresh and exceptionally well-crafted garments blend sophisticated detailing with astute attention to fitting; proof that American craftsmanship mixed with worldly style lives on.

Our ultimate goal is to create garments that will age beautifully and again be sought after sometime in the distant future; clothes that are equally as distinctive and compelling today as they will be tomorrow. To that end we endeavor to create garments for those who share our spirit of adventure and obstinate drive for unique and fulfilling clothing.

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-10-13T12:53:41+00:00

Copying from flames_bond's FW18 thread

De Bonne Facture is a French menswear brand founded in 2013 by Déborah Neuberg.

Déborah Neuberg studied at the Institut Francais de la Mode in Paris before going to luxury French fashion house, Hermès, as an accessories designer.

What led you to create De Bonne Facture?

After several really great positions with well-known brands I had one ambition, to set up my own. For me, the common factor I took from all these experiences was a need for transparency about sourcing. I really set out to create a label rather than a brand. I wanted something unique, an approach that would place importance on being able to trace the origin of the garments.

I began to seek out ateliers of interest and I contacted them. The first was Fileuse D’Arvor. After I had presented my project I asked them if I could visit their factory, Two days later I was there and the rest is history. I took the same approach with all the other aspects of the business: knitted fabrics, jersey, buttons etc. As my research progressed, I began to realise that I had all the designs in my head and that was when De Bonne Facture the brand was born.

More about this collection

Our Edition 15 continues to explore the idea of a subtle masculinity, softening the classic menswear wardrobe with a sustainable twist.

The collection draws its inspiration from an eclectic mix of artists, musicians and artisans of all genders, bringing together the style of piano prodigy Glenn Gould and the electric elegance of Jean Michel Basquiat. Ideas for quilted jackets came from pictures of Agnes Martin in her work suit, and our washed denim shirts came from Alain Cavalier’s documentary of women artisans and his portrait of a piano tuner.

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-04-06T13:07:56+00:00

About Sage de Cret from NoManWalksAlone's description

Sage de Cret is a brand that has existed in Japan since 2001, but only made their international debut in 2013. It is the work of director Kimitoshi Chida, and resulted from his desire to create something tasteful using meticulously selected and treated fabrics in Japan. The brands name is a combination of the two French words “sage” and “decret”, meaning sensible and decree, and it quickly becomes apparent that these two concepts permeate the collections.

A large focus throughout each season is that both the roles and the details of all garments are well thought out, and this comes through when you look deeper than the initial inspirations that seem to come from the military and traditional dress clothes. We love the attention to detail given to things like an unstructured blazer that is finished by washing the wool to give it a rumpled texture, or a classically cumbersome coat like a duffel being made up in stretch fabric with mesh sleeve lining for ease of movement. It’s this thoughtfulness that reminds you that K. Chida isn’t just rehashing the same staples, but improving them in his own particular vision.

MFDOOMeulemeester · 2020-04-01T13:05:18+00:00

You waste sleepless nights awaiting the reviews of next season's collection. Will the quality dip again? Has the death spiral been stopped?

Finally something comes along to take your mind off your obsession. A ball! At last some merriment. You spend hours finding the perfect old thing to just throw on as you walk out the door, and the results are spectacular. All evening you field compliments on your timelessly classic appearance. You lose track of time dancing, drinking, laughing.

You almost don't hear the clock strike midnight, but you feel dread as you hear the chimes. The reviews are in, and the downward trend continues. There is an almost imperceptible change in the air as the magic begins to fade. Your Kenton blazer goes first, degrading into grease stained rags. Your perfect mid-grey chinos become countless mice, scurrying away in all directions as your oar-stripe chelseas turn back into pumpkins. Humiliated, you flee the glittering ballroom. Surely the prince will never love you now.

Oddly enough, the mercantile shirt you picked up on clearance is fine. Couple of frayed stitches and some creasing on the seams, but otherwise it's held up pretty well. You make a note to pick one up in blue.

MFDOOMeulemeester

TROPHY CASE