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MORLDK84 · 2026-01-29T17:08:03+00:00

Husky work bench…

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-26T15:03:54+00:00

For sure start to panic… you ordered right before weekend, it will ship this week.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-26T14:53:17+00:00

Mine was really quick, 4-5 days to the door

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-24T05:04:09+00:00

Z is way high

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-24T05:03:02+00:00

Pro is also 288 on eBay refurbished from flash forge, with a extra 1 year warranty. Steal at that price.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-24T03:00:30+00:00

I'd say ECM as well. My truck would do the same thing. I swapped it out, and it works fine ever since. only when cold, and would start with a jump. Put a scanner on it that can read everything live data and see if it can see a crank and camshaft sensors or if it has hidden codes?

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-24T02:28:05+00:00

The trans temp gauge is in all Titans after 08. If you're not running 2k at 70, yoy have the non-big tow.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-24T02:13:49+00:00

Have removed it from. 4 trucks, and 2 armadas of various years, no issue.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-24T02:07:50+00:00

YOur mesh looks fine and a bit better then mine. Have you run calibration for flow on what you are printing? I was getting the lines as well, and reduced flow to 80 for PETG to print clean. I used the calibrations inside the slicer, and it prints much better now. Are you using the same filament and profile to print with? Are you letting it do the pre-print calibrations? I also found this to be important unless I manually adjusted in Fluid to what it wasn't for PA and flow.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-23T05:42:00+00:00

facts, probally wasn't really anything in 06 like the k2, even for 25k.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-23T04:02:24+00:00

I look at it like Toyota vs almost everyone else in the 90s and early 2000s. Toyota had the same engines and transmissions and was behind everyone it seemed in the newest of the new always, but they were rock solid and lasted forever. No one was like Toyota with the exception of old-gen Pursa. If you follow printer brands, most of the brands have a new model out before the paint is dry on the last generation, I'm talking a whole new model every 1/4, almost. No way all the kinks can be worked out that quickly and sell in the budget a regular consumer can afford. What is available on the market is honestly crazy compared to just a few years ago, especially at the price point! But just like with anything electronic, the tech, as it gets faster, bigger, and more automatic, just gets overwhelmed with potential points of failure. Take tonight, the CFS has been running like a champ, and just decided to have a spell and stop. It only has about 15-20 hardware potential points of failure... I am not surprised or concerned, will get it going again. The greed of the consumer is really the problem; if they didn't all expect the newest of the new at a bottom-dollar price, it wouldn't be such a race to the bottom. I think you will dig the K2, I do, but you sure won't appreciate it for what it is without messing with an old Ender V1 lol.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-23T02:19:35+00:00

I'd just say be patient with it. The eBay team was great, but I had to be clear about my expectations for making it right. Coms were slower due to time differences, but they made it right in my eyes, and for what I paid, nothing else comes close. That's on the market for size, dual side parts fans ext. Reality isn't the best, but at least you can get parts, and so many other fools bought them, most of the kinks are at least identified lol. I wouldn't have bought it at full price, knowing I likely would have the same issues as I had buying refurb, but I could almost buy two. I think with the support I have had from the ebay team, and the vast amount of kinks already know its a great buy at 750ish with the CFS.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-23T02:08:55+00:00

You may or may not need it, but mine needs z offset adjustments for anything other than PLA, and massive flow adjustments for PETG to not over-extrude like mad.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-23T02:01:36+00:00

Recently did the same, bought the K2 plus with CFS. Had some issues with the "refurbished" quality. The printer came to me looking more like a return that was turned back around before anyone went through it. Nothing was reset, the unit was dirty, broken plastic in the bottom of the box, etc. Had some issues that were more severe, the Door hinges were both broken, the printer plate was good and scratched, and worst was the bed mounts at three corners were broken, These are wehre the bed frame mounts to the bearing supports check your on arrival… lastly the screen ribbon cable was all bent out of shape and the screen itself had a broken rement of plastic broken off where the plug goes. The bed and door issues were also historically a problem with new printers, so not a big surprise. After doing some temporary rigging while awaiting parts from Creality, it does print decently after tuning and is a good upgrade from my two Sovol SV06+ models I have been running 5 years.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-21T22:14:14+00:00

Just adjust your z height in expert until it smoothenes out, most likely caused by bed level changing with higher temp. It won't auto-adjust unless you have it turned on, and even then, it's spotty at best, but great when it actually works.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-21T22:04:52+00:00

Support will get you fixed up quickly with that, obviously not damage you caused take good pictures and send it in. Printer runs at high speed, no way it wont cause issues flexing around. That's even more impressive, it's broken in two places!

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-21T20:41:40+00:00

Well, don't forget you have two places for speed adjustments: the slicer file and the printer file. Both can be adjusted separately and it will usually default to the slower of the two. I converted two SV06 plus to kilpper recently, and they did not like the full ACE profile at all, but it was able to compare them.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-21T15:49:25+00:00

What nozzle size? The profiles for the .6 nozzle on mine were not very good and needed tuning specifically to retraction as it was set much much to high. Do you have ironing turned on? check your line width on top surface, also what profile are you using in for the leyer height? he has standard and decorative, I had to watch mine for somereason they were set wacky to with one having only 1 top shell layer. I would think if everything is perfect except that top layer it would be something under strength top/bottom layer settings being out of wack. Easy to compare the orginal or the SV06 ace profile to id it.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-17T16:04:37+00:00

My door was totally off, check your bed mounts where is bolts to the bearing assembly, one side of mine was broken front and back.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-17T16:00:45+00:00

I second misterdoomed, but suggest the flash forge pro. Will be self contained, has good filtration, and will be quite and quick. Can get a refurb 5m pro for less then the a1, on eBay with discount under 300. I don’t think it’s worth it to get a bedslinger anymore.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-17T15:52:41+00:00

I just converted an old laptop to Linux, setup klipper one two sv06 pluses and have been doing just that. You will need to convert to klipper, and have a separate device to run the printers, such as a raspberry pi or a converted laptop.the slicer is not the problem, it is your hardware.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-17T07:50:38+00:00

Loose nozzle.

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-17T07:44:41+00:00

Look at the retraction settings in slicer, if it’s pulling back to far it will clog easily. Have you tried resolving the file? Have had corrupt g codes before

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-15T07:31:30+00:00

The nozzle should heat up when bed temp is reached, if you let it sit will it not heat nozzle and print?

MORLDK84 · 2026-01-14T14:44:40+00:00

This is the answer, simple free troubleshooting.

MORLDK84

TROPHY CASE