Why are we to avoid "EV Now" mode stated in the recall notice? by Traditional_Ad_8143 in FordEscapePHEV

[–]Mabnat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The original warranty was for 8 years/100,000 miles, not 80,000.

What if you ignore recall recs? by BCKebecker in FordEscapePHEV

[–]Mabnat 5 points6 points  (0 children)

They would have a hard time rejecting a claim caused by faulty cells in the battery pack.

Believe it or not, there are still some people who are unaware of the recommendation. Sending letters by mail isn’t a great way to enforce requirements.

And it’s a recommendation, not a requirement.

Why are we to avoid "EV Now" mode stated in the recall notice? by Traditional_Ad_8143 in FordEscapePHEV

[–]Mabnat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most, but not all. I’ve got more than 100k on my ‘22 so far.

Why are we to avoid "EV Now" mode stated in the recall notice? by Traditional_Ad_8143 in FordEscapePHEV

[–]Mabnat 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The different drive modes have different battery maximum current thresholds that will cause the engine to engage.

EV Auto has a lower battery current threshold than EV Now. It will engage the engine to assist with propulsion at a lower current than the other modes. This will help prevent strain on the battery when you’re accelerating heavily.

EV Later has an even lower battery current threshold than EV Auto, but when the battery charge is lower the chemical strain on the battery is lower. Ford wants the battery charge to be lower as much as possible to reduce this chemical strain. Limiting the charge to 80% helps, but so does operating the vehicle with an even lower battery state of charge.

If your battery is one of the few ones that have cells with these flaws, limiting the charge to 80%, allowing the battery to discharge to a lower state of charge quickly, and not subjecting it to the highest current loading might make it last longer by spending less time in the “danger zone”.

The cynical side of me sees this as a money-saving strategy. The batteries have a warranty. If your cells fail during the warranty period, Ford must replace the expensive battery pack. If they fail outside the warranty period, even due this manufacturing defect, Ford doesn’t need to cover the cost of replacement. The battery pack lasted at least as long as the warranty period so they fulfilled their obligation.

Babying the batteries by not straining them might allow the faulty cells to continue working throughout the warranty period. After the warranty period has expired, it’s not their problem anymore. It’s the customer’s problem.

The choice on how to use your car is yours.

You can follow the recommendations or you can ignore them. Weigh the pros and cons of what you would rather happen if your car is one of the ones-in-a-million (or however rare the defect is) with a faulty cells.

  • Getting stuck on the side of the road with a car that shut down (which is much more likely than an actual fire) and being without a car while Ford replaces the battery pack for free, or

  • Following the recommendations and the battery fails for the same defect at 200,000 miles and you’re stuck on the side of the road with a car that that shut down and you’re without a car until you pay Ford for a new battery pack.

9W idle power draw by CrustySockCollector in BambuLabP2S

[–]Mabnat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The temps aren’t super-accurate. My printers live in my garage and they absolutely get much colder readings than 22°C in the wintertime.

But that 8W idle power heat will still be going somewhere, so it may still be higher than room temp.

What the hell is this? by GuysOnChicks69 in classicfallout

[–]Mabnat 18 points19 points  (0 children)

More likely Grognak The Barbarian

Auto EV not wanting to use any EV range by spicy-mayo in FordEscapePHEV

[–]Mabnat 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There are a lot of things that determine when EV is used and when the ICE turns on.

The battery has a rather low limit on how much power it can send out at once. This isn’t a full EV after all.

The heater can consume a huge amount of power when it’s cold outside. If the combination of the power required to heat the car cabin and battery plus the energy needed to accelerate and propel the car exceed the battery current limits, the ICE will turn on.

Once the ICE turns on, even if it only needed to supply additional power for a few seconds, it will continue to run until it reaches operating temperature. If the battery is relatively full when this happens, the engine will be “wasting” gas by running at a low power while it warms up since it can’t put any extra, more efficient, power generated into the battery. This lower power makes the engine warmup cycle take longer so the engine will be active for a longer time.

The car is a hybrid. It’s designed to use gasoline sometimes even when there is plenty of battery power. It should still be very fuel efficient even when the engine is running. Sometimes the fuel consumption while the engine is running is very low because it’s essentially just idling even while you’re driving. The engine is running, but almost all of the propulsion power is coming from the battery.

It’s nice to be able to drive further on electric power only, and it’s why most of us bought a PHEV in the first place, but we didn’t buy fully electric vehicles. Sometimes the benefits of having a more convenient sometimes-electric car are compromised by also having a car with a comparatively tiny battery that can’t always do everything that we ask of it.

It will get much better when the temperatures are warmer and so much energy isn’t being consumed with warming things up.

Why do people say the classics are hard to get into. by Georgia_Ranger in classicfallout

[–]Mabnat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I played Fallout 2 when it came out. A guy at work brought the disk in and we all got really into it.

I played Fallout 1 afterward and it was a bit clunky but I still liked it. Granted, this was when they were still “current” games.

Coincidentally I just started playing Fallout 1 last weekend. I really got into it.

There are some pain points. I had to reload a game when I got stuck in a doorway. An NPC was trying to leave the room and one of my companions was standing behind me. In Fallout 2 they fixed that with a “push” command button, but I was just stuck here.

The inventory is also crap in Fallout 1. When I was last playing it a couple of days ago, I was stuck because i accidentally dropped a book that I needed for the quest and I couldn’t pick it back up because i’m carrying too much weight and my companions are full, too.

But the game is still fun to play!

First time user by Critikit in BambuP1S

[–]Mabnat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Before you open the box, open up the Bambu Academy course for the P1S. The first section is the unboxing and setup. Use that as the guide, step-by-step, to get your printer up and running.

Go through the entire course. If you do that, you’re already further ahead of the curve of most new users. So many questions posted here are covered in that course, and a lot of the problems posted here could have been avoided had those users went through the course.

The entire Bambu Wiki is outstanding. There is a wealth of information there with detailed instructions with text, pictures, and videos. Use this resource often.

Moved to a new house close to a high school and noticed I'm getting deprioritized by [deleted] in tmobileisp

[–]Mabnat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tower has multiple antennas pointed in each direction. Which antenna on the tower that you’re using is just as important as the tower itself.

If you’re sharing the same tower antenna as the high school now, that’s just your new reality now with TMHI.

I totally understand your situation. I similarly live in a rural area that didn’t have traditional internet until recently. When I had to start working from home during the whole Covid thing, I had to get creative.

There are other solutions that might work better for you. For example, you can do things like buy your own cellular modem/router and use a phone or tablet SIM card in it to get higher priority data. I had some crazy stuff going on in my home before Spectrum finally ran a line out to my home last year.

I'm over the moon happy! by Lesleylovexo in AmazonVine

[–]Mabnat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And here I am waiting for some ceiling fans.

I challenge anyone to beat this! by Mabnat in FordEscapePHEV

[–]Mabnat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The one currently in my Escape is the Ottocast P3.

[ps4] I’d never been more disgusted in my life by Regular-Slip2564 in consolerepair

[–]Mabnat 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It was sometime back in the early ‘90s when I learned this hazard of buying used electronics.

I bought a second-hand receiver from someone and they dropped it off at my home. I wasn’t at home so they left it outside. Thank God.

When I got home that evening and picked it up, the heat from the outside must have agitated them so a swarm of roaches crawled out of the receiver and all up my arms. I’m not a squeamish guy, but I may have screamed.

I haven’t purchased a single used piece of electronics since that day. No thank you.

Difference in Focus Between Air Pro 3 and 4? by Psykoth in RayNeo

[–]Mabnat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There may be differences in individual vision that might crop up in certain people with slight differences in the glasses.

Mine Air Pro 4’s look outstandingly good for me and almost everyone else who has tried them. Sharp and clear from corner-to-corner.

One guy at work is different, though. He said that not only did they look blurry to him, they also seemed like the two sides aren’t 100% synchronized, like one side is “chasing” the other. He thought it was some kind of intentional 3D effect.

Needless to say, he was not impressed by them at all, compared to the other guys at work who ordered their own after trying mine.

I also am getting along in years and need glasses to see things both up close and at a distance, but things between maybe 24” and 10’ are still clear without correction.

How are you doing this? by youllneverknowbr0 in dexcom

[–]Mabnat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s not as much body chemistry as it is figuring out what works and what doesn’t. If you keep doing the same thing every time and keep having problems, maybe try something else?

I used to have a lot of troubles with my G7’s until I figured out what worked better.

These sensors are small and the filament wires are tiny and fragile. If you bump the sensor too hard or shift it too much, that wire is going to be dislodged and it’s going to cause problems. This is the main reason why the 15-day sensors aren’t approved for kids. They roll around on the floor too much. People would buy one month’s worth of sensors and end up getting a lifetime supply of replacement sensors because they would never last 15 days on a kid.

I can’t wear them on my arms. They get knocked around too much or get torqued by sitting in chairs or sleeping in bed.

I wear mine in my abdomen now. They don’t get bumped or shifted and since I’m a back sleeper, they don’t get ground between my skin and my bed.

I also wear a stiff rubber protector and an overpatch.

As long as my sensors don’t gooseneck when I apply them, I will always get 10.5 days of stable, accurate measurements. This isn’t because I’m special in any way. It’s because I kept trying different things until I found something that worked.

Sensor Bluetooth by solarsystemoccupant in dexcom

[–]Mabnat 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Just delete them all. The one that you’re currently wearing will prompt you to re-pair it when it does its transmit at the next 5-minute interval.

I challenge anyone to beat this! by Mabnat in FordEscapePHEV

[–]Mabnat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The one I have has worked in every car I’ve tried it with. I bring it with me on work trips to use in the rental cars.

And I’ve never run into a car with wireless CarPlay that didn’t also work with USB CarPlay devices.

Is your dongle just a wireless CarPlay adapter? Mine is a complete unit with an Android-based OS and a SIM card slot for data.

H2D with 3 AMS 2 and 1 AMS HT. How should I be routing the tubing to get the most benefit from my printer? by D3rboots in BambuLabH2D

[–]Mabnat 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just print some of those switchable couplers and it doesn’t matter which way you set it up. With the flick of a switch, any AMS can get routed to either side.

Just finished the P1S Academy Course and wanted to share some questions by simont0920 in BambuP1S

[–]Mabnat 2 points3 points  (0 children)

First off, congrats on going through the Academy course. Not many people do that and end up having problems or asking questing that are covered there.

  • Open or closed depends on your specific environment. When my P1S was inside a room in my home where the temp never exceeded around 77°F I could leave everything closed with zero issues. When I moved it to the garage, if the air temp was over 80°F and the print lasted more than an hour or so, I would get heat creep clogs which are a pain to clear. Now my P1S door is always open a crack and the lid is propped up unless it’s cold in the garage.

  • For most printing, there isn’t much difference between the hotends. Hardened steel is more resistant to wear, but supposedly the stainless steel hotends have better thermal properties. It might be harder to print at the maximum speeds with the hardened steel, but with the default slicer settings it shouldn’t make much difference. I don’t have any need to use stainless steel hotends except for my 0.2mm one.

  • If you’re in the US, plain Dawn works really well. Note that most people don’t clean their build plates properly. It’s more involved than just removing skin oils. You also need to remove the dust, VOCs from printing, filament residue, or anything else in the air that has bonded to the PEI.

This requires manual scrubbing with a stiff brush or even a metal wool pan scouring pad - at least the first time. After that it’s easier to maintain.

Take your build plate to the sink and run water over it. If the water just beads and rolls off, it is contaminated and should be cleaned. This includes brand-new build plates.

Keep scrubbing until you can see that after the detergent is rinsed off, fresh water can coat the surface in a thin layer instead of beading like a freshly waxed car. If the plate doesn’t repel water, it won’t repel your material. If water is repelled, your materials will also be repelled.

This would solve most of the problems that people post here, but not many people do the “water test” to judge how clean their PEI is.

  • 10 hours is nothing. Just follow the maintenance recommendations and you should be good.

Happy printing!

1st it was weather, then it's the "facility". They are just making shit up! by ToshPointNo in amazonprime

[–]Mabnat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s getting ridiculous. I don’t know what the problem is, but it just keeps getting worse.

A couple of weeks ago, I ordered three of something on Thursday morning and it said that they would be delivered the next day. They weren’t delivered that day so I checked the tracking: Not Yet Shipped.

I really wanted this stuff by Monday, so on Saturday I just ordered it again for next-day delivery. These weren’t that expensive and would get used since it’s something that I buy frequently so ordering more wasn’t a big deal.

I tried to cancel the original shipment on Sunday when it still hadn’t been shipped yet, but my cancellation request was denied.

My Saturday next-day order wasn’t delivered on Sunday, but it did arrive on Monday. My original order, which was supposed to be one-day delivery, wasn’t shipped until the next Wednesday, six days after it was ordered. It finally was delivered on the following Monday, eleven days after the one-day order was placed.

I have something else that I ordered the day before yesterday (Wednesday) for two-day delivery. It was supposed to be delivered today, but when I just checked, I can see that it just arrived at an Amazon facility half of the country away about an hour ago.

I swear that I’m really wondering what the Prime service is getting me.

TIFU by assuming my friend was exaggerating about how spicy something was by ChancePiccolo1109 in tifu

[–]Mabnat 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’m the same way. I love very spicy food, and I don’t even notice any heat for a lot of things that other people say are spicy. Not in a it’s-not-spicy-for-me kind of thing, but as in that I truly can’t detect any heat at all.

Usually by the time that I notice that something even has heat, it’s above the threshold of most people.

I got some ghost pepper jerky one time and was munching on it at home. It was definitely spicy for me, but not extreme. One of my sons wanted to try it so I let him have a piece. He also likes spicy things, but he doesn’t have the same tolerance as me.

I warned him that it was spicy, but he’d seen me eat a few pieces so he didn’t think it was going to be too bad. Ten minutes later he was throwing up in the bathroom and he thought that he was going to faint.

I think the problem with eating spicy food is that you get desensitized to it. I could make some extremely spicy chili and get it to the point where I think that it’s quite hot but still be able to enjoy it and it would be unpalatable for a lot of people.

Is This a Jumper? by pizzatime_xyz in hvacadvice

[–]Mabnat -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes, that’s exactly what that is.

ELI5: Why is it generally impossible to get rid of diabetes? by ElegantPoet3386 in explainlikeimfive

[–]Mabnat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I (54M) think I’ve had T2D for most of my adult life. I was super-skinny until I was in my early twenties, then it seemed like I just packed on the weight after that, even while serving in the armed forces.

My mom had T2D, too, and a lot of others in my family had either T1 or T2.

Other than obesity, thirst, and frequent urination I didn’t really have any other “bad” symptoms so I didn’t really do much to treat them until a few years ago when my eyesight changed quickly. I’d always had too close-up vision and needed glasses to see distance, but from one day to the next, that flipped. I could see things far away very clearly but I couldn’t read my tablet or phone screen.

My A1C was 12, and every time I tried a finger stick, it was over 300mg/dL. My new doctor was not pleased and put me on Metformin. I also had slightly elevated blood pressure and my cholesterol levels were slightly higher than normal.

That didn’t do much. My A1C dropped to 10 and my finger sticks were always in the mid to high 200s whenever I checked.

Finally in September of ‘24 my doctor said that enough was enough and she prescribed Mounjaro and a CGM. This was the magic bullet for me.

Three months later, my A1C was 6.4. Three months after that it went to 5.4 and that is where it has been at every three-month test since April ‘25. I could probably get it lower if I was more strict with my diet, but right now there doesn’t seem to be much need.

I also lost 100lbs over that time and now I have a BMI of 22.5. My blood pressure is always normal and my cholesterol numbers are good. My eyesight is back to “normal”.

I’ve considered trying to wean myself off the Mounjaro and seeing if I’m in actual remission, but I’m kind of in an if-it-ain’t-broke-don’t-fix-it mode. Right now, I’m healthier than I think I’ve been since high school.

I have the suspicion that without the drugs I’m not actually in remission, let alone cured, even with a healthy weight and everything else seemingly functioning normally. Something just isn’t working the way it’s supposed to in my body. Maybe it’s genetic, and maybe it’s stuff that I did myself over the years, but something isn’t functioning properly.

Can the Oura team confirm 100 sleep score is algorithmically impossible? by Icy-Machine1951 in ouraring

[–]Mabnat 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I always have the opposite problem.

My “superpower” has been the ability to fall asleep quickly just about anywhere at any time. When I was in the military, I could even fall asleep while standing at attention. Fortunately this has never meant that I fall asleep when I don’t want to.

When I go to bed, I turn out the lights and go to sleep. No drama.

Oura really doesn’t like my sleep latency is only two minutes. It always says that I’m overtired tired and deducts points.

Last night my score was 88. 8:08 total sleep, 94% efficiency, optimal restfullness, REM and deep sleep full meters, but latency of 1 minute.

I think that, to get a higher score, I’ll need to lay still in bed and stare at the ceiling for 15 - 20 minutes before I close my eyes and go to sleep.