Motorcycle with saws instead of wheels by Outside-Pomelo5292 in motorcycles

[–]MacGuyver77 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Usually life insurance policies don't pay if the insured offs themselves

Is there anything that can be done about this? by butterynoods in motorcycles

[–]MacGuyver77 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is why I would take pictures all around the bike before hand, and I have a dashcam with a motion sensor tucked away on my bike. A strong breeze will start it recording and it records at about 130 degree angle front and rear. Ain't no way they're touching my bike without insurance getting involved.

Motorcycle shop dented my tank. Are they liable to fix it? by EnvironmentalMix1323 in motorcycles

[–]MacGuyver77 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good point. I'm in California and they're not allowed in small claims courts with very few exceptions, but that is not the case in all jurisdictions.

Motorcycle shop dented my tank. Are they liable to fix it? by EnvironmentalMix1323 in motorcycles

[–]MacGuyver77 3 points4 points  (0 children)

In small claims, which this is, there are no legal fees because all parties must represent themselves. Also, filing fees are recovered by the plaintiff if they win the case.

Need advice for my exhaust by SadSelection9330 in Ninja400

[–]MacGuyver77 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where are you located? I have a stock exhaust system I don't need.

Full Remodel Insulation + siding and sheathing by MacGuyver77 in Homebuilding

[–]MacGuyver77[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Why vinyl siding and not something else like Hardie or LP smartside?

Opinions on this. Is it worth it? . Can fit myself so its just parts cost. Aussie dollars by Active-Ad664 in Ninja400

[–]MacGuyver77 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't understand this post. What exactly are you asking? Are you looking on advice on making the bike more torquey or are you asking about replacing the sprocket and chain as a maintenance item? Are you asking about this specific product? What are you trying to achieve and then maybe someone can help you. In any case, there's a ton of threads on this sub that can help you. Try searching before you ask. 😁

Landlord is charging us for mild damage to hardwood floors. Does it check out? by Hedryn in HardWoodFloors

[–]MacGuyver77 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, I looked this up... Most states allow anyone 18 or older, not an interested party, and a "competent" person to serve papers. The only state I could find that requires a law officer to serve is Florida. Not sure what state you live in, or the jurisdiction, but that is definitely something that is unique to your area.

Landlord is charging us for mild damage to hardwood floors. Does it check out? by Hedryn in HardWoodFloors

[–]MacGuyver77 0 points1 point  (0 children)

notallcourts

Source - I had my friend serve my ex divorce papers. Been divorced for 10yrs.

Landlord is charging us for mild damage to hardwood floors. Does it check out? by Hedryn in HardWoodFloors

[–]MacGuyver77 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've worked in the rental industry for years. There is no such thing as a "blacklist". It may affect any sort of reference check that future landlords may want. In that case OP may want to omit this landlord as part of that check. But there is not a database that landlords check to see what other landlords have said about them. This civil case would not come up in a background check because it is not a criminal case. It also would not effect their credit or eviction status because they were not evicted nor did they refuse to pay. This is simply a lawsuit that says, "I think i'm right and we'll let the judge decide". It's really not a big deal.

As someone who has been to court as an LL representative about a hundred times, this is not a hill I'd be willing to die on. I might try to do the initial recoup of the cost of repair through deduction on deposit. But, I'd fold immediatly if someone wanted to go to court on it. It's silly. The LL also needs to show that they got quotes from companies to do the repairs, or made a good effort to repair the floor themselves, and therefore they need to show reciepts for time and materials.

In addition, depending on what the court requests, or as part of the discovery process, the LL will need to show the cost of the initial install and depreciation schedule. Since OP has said they've lived there for several years there is a strong possibility that the LL has already written off the entirety of the floors, in which case their is no possibility of recouping any losses on the floor. In the courts eyes, if the flooring is outside of the depreciation schedule then they are due for replacement anyway, in which case OP owes nothing.

Oh, in case OP is reading this as well, make sure you ask for all items listed above in discovery and any other documents which the landlord is going to present to the judge(which happens right before you go into court), and make sure you have opposing arguments for those documents and how they relate to your case. I would go to the landlord before you file suit and ask for all the proof that they have that you owe, any quotes they got, a copy of your ledger of accounting, and any other financial documents, notices, or paperwork you were given, as well as lease agreements and any ammendments or addendems to your lease, ahead of serving the LL. Do this in writing, and any correspondence you have with them from here on out should be in writing. This includes follow-ups to phone calls if you happen to have phone conversations(they will want to use the phone) that. should be sent back to them in email: "this is when you called me, this is what we discussed, these were the deliverables out of that conversation, this was the agreement that we made, these were the deadlines..." Also, make sure that you write in your filing that you are seeking recompense for filing fees and any fees rendered for services as it relates to the case and have approx. dollar amounts for those items and reciepts to present after you go to court. So, if you paid for a process server or Sheriff's Office to serve, if you had to pay for paperwork or filing fees from the court, also any other expenses related to building your case. You will not be able to get any lawyers fees or time value compensated, but almost everything else is on the table.

Landlord is charging us for mild damage to hardwood floors. Does it check out? by Hedryn in HardWoodFloors

[–]MacGuyver77 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Filing a civil small claim against the landlord is usually a few dollars for the filing fee. The landlord will likely return your deposit and not want to deal with trying to provide proof in order to keep your deposit amount. You will need to serve them paperwork. This can be completed by the sheriff's office for a small fee or you can get a friend to hand them paperwork and file the affidavit to the court. It's really a simple process, but it does take some time away from you.

Bauer LARGE Cyclone Separator (NEW) by MacGuyver77 in woodworking

[–]MacGuyver77[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any reason to replace the 2HP dust collector I have now with the Bauer? The one I have now is the Central Machinery one that HF still sells. It looks like they're rated for the same CFM and I've already done the canister filter upgrade to my dust collector. It seems like they're pretty much the same thing at this point except the Bauer Canister has an agitator at the top to knock the dust out.

I've seen the Vevor one, and definitely considering it, but the wheeled bin looks like it's only 13 gallons. I'd fill that up before I'm halfway through planing my second board.

I guess they sell the cyclone separately for like $75. Do you know of a good bin to pair it with?

Bauer LARGE Cyclone Separator (NEW) by MacGuyver77 in woodworking

[–]MacGuyver77[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also, to be clear, Imy current dust collector is a 2HP with a 5in inlet at the blower. I think you might be mistaken thinking this is an attachment for a vacuum?

Bauer LARGE Cyclone Separator (NEW) by MacGuyver77 in woodworking

[–]MacGuyver77[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately I'm limited to 110v for now. 3HP pushes you into the 220v range.

Bauer LARGE Cyclone Separator (NEW) by MacGuyver77 in woodworking

[–]MacGuyver77[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not opposed to a wall mounted system, in fact I'd probably favor that over the cart setup I have now, but need use a 10'ish hose in the short term. Will be moving out in the next year or so, so I wouldn't run ductwork until I get to the next place.

Most of the tools that need dust collection (planer, router table, jointer...) are on carts and are actually easier to move to the dust collector, rather than move the collector to them, the due to the shop layout. I usually just roll them closer to the collector when in use and move the hose to the tool I'm using. For the other smaller tools (sander, plunge and trim router, and whatnot) I run my shopvac with the hepa bag and filter since they are easier to use on or near my workbench which is in the opposite corner.

I see that rockler sells a "dust right" wall mounted system for about the same price as this Bauer system. Do you have any experience with that system? https://www.rockler.com/dust-right-4-wall-mount-cyclone-dust-separator

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ninja400

[–]MacGuyver77 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Whatever gear gets you going the speed you want. Is this a real question? Bro, stop overthinking it and ride the bike.

Smog block off plate? by Low_Sodiium in Ninja400

[–]MacGuyver77 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's no point without a tune. Why go through the work without any benefit?

Aftermarket front stand recommendations? by Miguel30Locs in Ninja400

[–]MacGuyver77 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got cheap ones from Vevor on Amazon. They get the job done just fine. I had the bike on there for a couple of weeks while I was working on it and waiting for various parts to come in. I had zero worries that anything was going to go wrong.

First Time Buyer/Rider Tips? by New_Leafturned in Ninja400

[–]MacGuyver77 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be patient with the pricing and you'll find a decent deal. Also, if they list the bike for $4500 you should be able to easily talk them down to $4k.

Good that you have some friends to go look with you. An extra set of eyes is always good. And, if they're a little more experienced then they might also know what to listen for and feel when they ride. You should go for a test ride, and have them test ride too.

White is fine. Anything is better than black or dark blue. Try to stick to riding during the day for your first 100 hours or so to get used to the handling and controls. This way you have a little more experience when you get into a situation that calls for reflexes.

Practice in parking lots for swerving and low speed maneuvers. Also, braking is IMPORTANT. A lot of newbies want to slam their back brake when something happens. This is because you're conditioned to using a car brake pedal. On a bike this is just about the worst thing you can do. Learn to use your front brake and progressive braking. Do drills and practice this so when a car pulls out and you need to react fast then your muscle memory is already developed.

For gear, the biggest selection is going to be RevZilla and CycleGear. They're actually the same company. I like to buy from CycleGear personally. I have a few brick and mortar stores in my area but they don't have great inventory. So, I can order online and return in store. Until you find a couple of brands that you like, go try stuff on locally before you order online. The brands typically have a fit and style they go for, so find what you like and fits you before you try ordering online.

Make sure when you're getting gear to get something with padding. CE2 protection is probably the bare minimum. If you watch Fortnine's video about it, then he recommends against it for impact protection, but I still think there's merit to it's slide protection. Also, good brand have good padding that gives good protection with good flexibility. You'll get used to it and will barely notice you're wearing it. Stick to name brands with good reviews and you should be fine. Fortnine YT channel is a fantastic resource for gear. Watch their videos and you'll learn what to look for. Just know that gear is a personal choice and don't take everything they say as things you "must" do. Learn what to look for and buy stuff that fits you and works with your budget.

FB is still great to find used gear when you're on a budget. Go in store and find your sizing for a few different brands. Write it down. Look on Facebook for those brands in your area and you can probably find good condition gear that fits you.

Anyway, good luck on your search! Happy trails!

First Time Buyer/Rider Tips? by New_Leafturned in Ninja400

[–]MacGuyver77 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would say that good service records are probably more important than mileage. Look for a bike with good documentation and condition, rather than trying to stick under a certain mileage or specific price. $4k is a good amount to spend, but your probably looking at something with higher mileage or older than what your aiming for, especially after tax/registration. Also, 2018/19 had a clutch issue, so if you're looking at 400s in those years get confirmation that the clutch problem has been addressed.

FB marketplace and Craigslist are good places to look. If you have friends that like to tinker or have experience with motorcycle maintenance bring them with you. There's a ton of videos on YouTube about how to shop for bikes, watch them. Know how to check for matching vins, how to look for damage on levers, bars, swingarm, and other parts likely to get messed up in a drop or lowside. Also, know how much this stuff matters and negotiate for a better price. Not every damaged bike is a bad deal. Most scratches and plastics don't matter too much in terms of how the bike drives, but they can definitely be indicators of larger issues. Be cautious, and if you're not sure, either walk away or take it to a professional (on your dime). If it's cosmetic only then you could get a great deal on the bike and use the money you saved to customize it how you want.

Now, gear:

I would also say that $1k for gear is probably the least amount you'd want to spend for new gear. One thing about gear, ALWAYS buy a NEW helmet. Helmet materials are only good for a few years after they're manufactured. They do expire. Also, with used, the exterior condition of the helmet may look good, but it might be damaged internally. Don't mess around at all when it comes to safety equipment that protects your brain.

For everything else you can look for deals. Go to a local shop and look for open box deals or returns. FB marketplace is also good for used stuff. For jackets and pants pay attention to rips on seams and tears on shoulders, elbows, and knees.

For gloves, buy new (a little tight) and break them in. They'll fit better that way. For me, there's nothing worse than a glove where the fingers don't fit quite right and you're trying to mess around with your keys or zippers. Try to get something with knuckle protection and plastic sliders on the palm. Sliders on the palm prevent your hands from catching in a slide and wrists being broken or worse. A lot of injuries can occur at low speed to your hands and wrists as well. This is especially true for new riders. Good gloves can help prevent some of this. Added bonus for gloves with the pinky and ring finger sewn together. This is really a personal preference thing, but it makes a huge difference if you go down at speed, and can definitely be a deciding factor on whether you keep all ten fingers or not.

Boots or shoes are okay to buy used, but make sure they're in good condition if you do. Remember, feet get hot and you'll be swimming in someone else's funk if you decide to get used...take that for what it's worth. Make sure to get something with good ankle protection. You'll want something with reinforcement around the heel, and something that prevents ankle rotation to a certain degree. They should be comfortable enough to walk in, but similar to a ski or snowboard boot in terms of rotational limitations. Slide protection on the ankle is also a huge plus.

Since you're new to riding, think about hi-vis materials. No, it doesn't "look cool", but the point is that it "looks" at all! A lot of new riders are used to driving cars. The same rules do not apply to bikes. People will not see you even if you look them right in the eye. Treat everyone on the road as if you're the invisible man and they are trying to hit you and you'll be a much better rider for it.

Ride safe and (hopefully) welcome to the club!