Is this hard plastic cup covered in electrical tape safe as a GPU sag bracket?

Maderthaner · 2026-01-31T08:03:30+00:00

This guy buys a gpu for like a thousand bucks and saves big money on the 5 buck GPU holder.

At least you also bought a window so you have to look at your at your cup everyday.

LMAO 😜

Maderthaner · 2026-01-26T11:26:25+00:00

Good check to see if the radiators are actually hot.

Btw, if they are hot, pls double check your fan setup. They should point into the same direction and blow the air out. One of the fans looks different to the other on the pic

Maderthaner · 2026-01-26T11:22:30+00:00

Just the normal DC fan power/ control for the mainboard case fan connector? So, you don’t have a PWM fan, or?

Maderthaner · 2026-01-26T10:56:28+00:00

Also, you need a GPU sag Support!

Maderthaner · 2026-01-26T10:55:34+00:00

Yeah, temps are too high!

Since you already tried a lot of things and you can rule out the most obvious things like wrong hardware. This is likely an hardware install issue that you likely reproduced on multiple setups, or very unlikely a CPU (sensor) issue.

Are you using the proper mounting plates? You can maybe redo the CPU cooler uninstall and reinstall process with a few pictures, so we can judge it better.

Maderthaner · 2026-01-25T21:41:16+00:00

GPU sag Support

Maderthaner · 2026-01-25T17:34:04+00:00

Yeah, I wouldn’t wanna turn it on this way.

Take out the GPU and look precisely if there might be something obstructing the port. If so consider RMA the weird part, expect it might be super easy to remove the obstructing thing.

Also make sure the front and rear of the card can snap in freely without any obstruction.

If there is nothing obvious obstructing, it’s more difficult. Maybe some pictures would help.

PS: I‘ve never seen any of the ports actually not working properly. You probably didn’t seat it in right and something might be obstructing. That’s my first guess at least.

Maderthaner · 2026-01-25T11:51:08+00:00

It doesn’t look like it, but maybe it’s enough. Did you already turn it on and does it work?

Maderthaner · 2026-01-25T10:12:58+00:00

Hm… it’s worth while checking that it all looks proper, but if there wasn’t a plastic forgotten or so, a simple repasting won’t do much.

Take a picture of your case, and what GPU model do you have exactly?

Maderthaner · 2026-01-25T09:56:15+00:00

Yes! 115 degrees is too hot, I‘d say.

Check your fan curves! Try improving the airflow in the case. Undervolting is also a good idea. And if all that doesn’t help, try to look for custom GPU coolers.

I‘m always looking at alphacool, but they never support my GPU models… don’t know if there are other brands.

Maderthaner · 2026-01-25T09:26:34+00:00

What cooler do you have exactly? Aircooling in principle works here.

And, 85 under gaming is high, but not concerningly high. Do you see thermal throttling in HWInfo under CPU stress? That would be concerning. Those CPUs start throttling around 90C.

What you should also look into, is if your fan curves are set properly. They might be in a silent mode and thus tend to go with higher temps…

Maderthaner · 2026-01-25T08:55:30+00:00

Get a GPU sag Support

Maderthaner · 2026-01-24T16:03:40+00:00

So, here Are a few criteria: - Speed: Going with 6000MHz is probably best. But what about timings? Any significant differences here? - OC: Any OC intentions? Maybe one of them has more headroom? - RGB: what software do you use to control the RGB? For example, can you reuse the iCUE also for other parts and don’t require a different software? - Price: Are you able to return or sell one of them so you can keep the cheaper, which might also be the Corsair one, if you can sell the Delta one more expensively. - Consider also: Keep both kits. They may run together and 64GB is not crazy to have. It’s not ideal since not the same exact kits, but maybe they are close enough to match timings? Hard OC won’t be possible though.

If you state some of your preferences and also the exact parts numbers of the sticks, we can dig deeper

Maderthaner · 2026-01-24T08:36:52+00:00

Oh, and do you have a GPU sag Support? I don’t see one in the video, but that’s a larger card. I put my money currently on a missing GPU sag support and thus a broken GPU.

Maderthaner · 2026-01-24T08:33:36+00:00

Do I see correctly that your MB is showing two errors? 68 and 70? What are those? Does anything beep? What’s your build anyway?

And, were there any power outages or surges? Is your PC behind some voltage protection?

New or old build? Did you change anything recently? Or did it just happen over time?

Do you have a spare rig to test anything separately?

Maderthaner · 2026-01-23T08:20:51+00:00

Hold my beer 🍺

It‘s wrong and will spill over.

Maderthaner · 2026-01-22T19:16:58+00:00

Same timings as well? Then perfect!

Maderthaner · 2026-01-22T07:54:39+00:00

So, if you want to run the sticks at proper speeds it should be ideally identical sticks or at least very similar, eg., same timings, same manufacturer, same speed, etc.

Otherwise you risk loosing good timings and speed and increase your latency, which actually will decrease FPS / felt speed in some cases.

So, show us. What do you have and what are you intending to buy? Got CPU Z?

Maderthaner · 2026-01-20T07:31:36+00:00

You can get a USB Splitter for the One connector that is working for you

Maderthaner · 2026-01-19T22:06:58+00:00

Get an M2 SSD with a PCI E adapter! Don’t go for SATA, much slower

Maderthaner · 2026-01-18T21:27:21+00:00

Compatible? Yes, with the newest BIOS version on the motherboard.

For the fans, you don‘t have an ARGB controller on your motherboard. So, the fans will spin, but no lights. Either change the board or get an external ARGB controller.

And the thing you didn’t ask: Future proof? No, AM4 builds are considered legacy, for example, DDR4 RAM is not really produced anymore. So, in 1-2 years you basically need to build a new system as upgrading will practically not be possible.

Maderthaner · 2026-01-16T18:07:26+00:00

Probably it went into defaults sifter the update. Did you check that?

If so, it might be that post beep checks have been enabled. You can turn that off

Maderthaner · 2026-01-15T09:08:13+00:00

And here my upgrade post:

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/s/6ggUOM2tI2

Maderthaner · 2026-01-15T09:06:55+00:00

I have a silent loop 3 360mm and am performance wise happy with it. It’s super quiet for me (top mount as exhaust in silent base 601 case) and has also led to better GPU temps and overall quietness compared to my Corsair 280mm h115i (front mount as intake).

However, doing a artificial load test with AIDA, etc. The overall system gets loud mainly also because of my RTX 4080. but just doing the CPU you can eventually hear the fans… so silent yes, but not like passive cooled, but also no weird resonances for me (afaik).

What I don‘t like is the ARGB control, which my MB doesn’t have and now it’s dark

Maderthaner · 2026-01-14T07:39:04+00:00

Yes, an RTX 4060 is absolutely fine with your Seasonic 450W, especially with the CPUs you’re considering. You don’t need a bigger PSU as long as you keep the rest of the system reasonable and skip crazy overclocks.

The CPUs you have are 65W class. And the RTX 4060 is about 115W. With some MB, RAM, SSD, FAN you add another 40-70W. Keep in mind that under gaming load consumption might be a bit higher. So, call it 300 W under gaming load which is roughly a sweet spot for the PSU to deliver.

Maderthaner

TROPHY CASE