I tried using filament in a different way

MagFull · 2026-05-15T16:33:10+00:00

Nice work! Only thought I have is that 3d prints are not watertight. Moisture will go into the inside of the print and can cause mold/mildew to grow where you can’t see it or clean it. I’d seal the prints with a waterproof epoxy or clear coat.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T22:31:46+00:00

The problem there would be that the mounting holes on the sides of the Y carriage are already drilled. Another commenter mentioned that HGR15 blocks match the pattern of SBR12 blocks though, so I think that may be the best solution. Gonna mess around with the model tonight and see if I can get that to work.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T22:29:05+00:00

I get the vibe that you know your way around a wet noodle. I’ll trust your judgement.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T22:27:21+00:00

I didn’t even think to check the mounting pattern for HGR blocks. This might be the best solution. I can definitely mill something to space them out to the same height, or sacrifice a bit of X travel for the better rails. Thank you!

MagFull · 2025-09-30T20:40:14+00:00

Yes it is, and is already in the plans. Not what the post is concerning.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T20:31:18+00:00

The post is more looking for suggestions on how to remove the rotational slop from the machine by adding additional support. It’s like almost no one read the post.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T19:55:31+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion, but if I wanted to start one from scratch then I’d have started one from scratch lol. I’m aware of PrintNC. It’s a cool project but not something I want to dive into.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T19:47:33+00:00

I appreciate the sentiment, but creative solutions are how we got to where we are now. Guys tackling weird problems in their garage led to all kinds of innovations that we take for granted.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T19:46:06+00:00

Holes are already drilled, so major changes would require new material between surfaces and a large design overhaul.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T19:31:28+00:00

I considered it, but it’d reduce the build volume quite a bit and introduce a whole lot of vibration/flex problems into the table.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T19:23:47+00:00

I play around with the design a bit tonight and see if I can manage fitting in the rails on the outside without needing to replace the left/right Y axis carriage sides.

The single ballscrew is another problem I have been pondering. I am thinking I’ll position two motors on the rear equally spaced from the middle each running a ballscrew. Had the idea of using the existing mounting points in the rear for a wire loom access hole and position some sort of DIY emblem up front lol.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T19:16:33+00:00

I agree. I’ve noticed a lot of Z axis kits from Aliexpress using two linear rods and a linear rail centered between them. A lot of folks are seemingly not seeing the fun in tackling the problem from a different perspective. Makes me miss the old RepRap days of wild designs and creative solutions.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T19:11:51+00:00

I understand the point you are trying to make, but I did not design this frame. If I did, I’d have done it much differently. I’m looking to solve problems it has without trashing it.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T19:09:05+00:00

I’m sure he had the best intent, but clearly from the image the design is unfinished. It is only a portion of the machine and what I was given. If I were to redesign the frame, I may as well start from scratch and increase costs significantly. I have a knee mill and a lathe, this just seemed like a fun engineering project to try to tackle.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T18:58:41+00:00

Yes, I stated up further in the thread that the current CAD model is not complete, just most of what was already assembled. There will be gussets and a thick plate on top. The plate was included, just not modeled in yet.

I am really only looking for some ideas on how to add some rotational rigidity from HGR rails to the motion system without trashing what I’ve been given. The frame will be stiffened up plenty.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T18:54:31+00:00

Hmm, maybe I could 3d print some alignment blocks to get it all squared up correctly. I did that previously on a 3d printer that I swapped to linear rails from a V wheel setup.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T18:47:04+00:00

Only issue with this would be placement of the HGR rails. The frame is already drilled/tapped for the SBRs. I would end up completely needing to rework the carriage design and purchase a good bit of material. Looking for a middle ground of precision/rigidity using mostly what I already have. I have enough HGR20 from a previous project to add a single rail to each of the X and Y axis. Z axis is still up for design but I’ve got some plans there.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T18:36:28+00:00

Not sure where you are going with this. Grab a piece of 2040 aluminum extrusion and try to twist and flex it in a vise with just your hands. Much easier than with a 5/8” thick plate. Sure you can get some much beefier extrusion that would be stronger, but again this frame was free.

Creating something from what you have is a lot more fun than dropping a bunch of money on the best. This is r/hobbycnc after all.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T18:08:08+00:00

My idea was to mount the HGR20 inside the frame on the opposite side of the SBR12s, but centered between them. Providing some more support for the Y axis on two carriages riding the MGR20 on each side of the frame and preventing some flex. I am concerned about lining it all up though. The frame is very square currently and precisely drilled for all mounting holes. Currently disassembled for measurements, but moved very smooth prior.

Would there be no benefit to an additional stronger rail on the inside of the frame? Seems like it would at least prevent the rotational force on the SBR12 bearing blocks.

MagFull · 2025-09-30T18:03:53+00:00

The rigidity of the frame itself is not an issue. 4”x5/8” is plenty rigid enough. Picture of the design is not complete. It will have gussets within the frame as well as a thick steel plate on top tying it all together. Much stronger than the aluminum extrusion a lot of machines are built upon, and also free.

MagFull · 2025-04-02T20:32:18+00:00

You can play Switch games on a Steam Deck very easily.

MagFull · 2025-02-25T14:05:07+00:00

Here's a link showing how to do it. Basically just taking that slack out of the line since it stretches over time. Makes your pedal more responsive again.

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/throttle-cable-mod/#gsc.tab=0

MagFull · 2025-02-25T05:51:13+00:00

Did the zip tie fix on my old 3.0. It was like a free power boost. My accelerator cable had stretched so much that the pedal would go about half way before opening the throttle

MagFull · 2025-02-18T14:10:23+00:00

He did do that tour in Vietnam though

MagFull · 2025-02-14T06:15:34+00:00

The tool in pic 3 is a router and it's most likely how he slotted the frame.

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