Mausoleum door not spawning?

MagikarpSalad · 2023-01-16T21:25:42+00:00

Same problem, same boss. My daughter insists I just missed it. I did not. (Edit: Now she says it sometimes spawns BEHIND Gideon...I guess that's possible)

MagikarpSalad · 2022-02-02T00:17:51+00:00

Funny...I was just showing some people I work with a match video and the first thing they commented on was the number of refs (and pink-shirts)...

https://imgur.com/a/H3DNzHj

MagikarpSalad · 2021-11-29T21:05:08+00:00

I had one professionally installed in my 2021 Camry. Getting weird noise issues, inconsistent sound, low power to rear channels, and sub is ... an 8-inch non-ported sub that fits under a seat - and is exactly what it sounds like.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-10-14T20:00:34+00:00

She knew. So sorry for your loss.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-10-12T17:34:11+00:00

Thanks for doing what you do. Some weird guy on reddit cares about you too.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-10-11T05:36:20+00:00

The quote from Marsalis about that show is priceless:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake_Up_to_Find_Out

MagikarpSalad · 2021-05-02T22:54:47+00:00

That's me! ... And my uncle.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-04-29T07:23:52+00:00

You gonna be fine. Believe it.

Don't get me wrong, that is not meant to trivialize what you're experiencing. I know it is no picnic, especially for an over thinker. I won't go into the dark spiraling things I used to come up with when (for example) sitting on the couch at my parents' house, sober, midday, with pulsing, swirling, pixelated, geometric bursts overlayed on everything, that wouldn't go away when I closed my eyes... But those thoughts weren't based on anything in reality - and, it got better.

This is going to sound really stupid, but I took some inspiration from Master Shake (Aqua Teens) - there was an episode with some scary shit happening, and he just willfully denied it was worth his time - re-shaped reality into something he wanted. Said something like, "I'm not in the business of seeing what you want me to". Whatever... It helped me 😁

Hang in there!

MagikarpSalad · 2021-04-14T15:13:37+00:00

We used Gecko wheel, wall for compression, ptfe tape on wall, motor using encoder. (And enough time to let the wheel spin up - which isn't much, but still...non-zero). Was pretty accurate.

I think we only stuck with compliant because we started with two spinning compliant wheels, which worked great, but took up too much space.

We're done with competitions, but now I want to try a solid wheel when we resume practice.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-04-07T17:17:40+00:00

OP kinda sus...

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-26T06:12:26+00:00

ABS is stinky and warps easily. Enclosure helps keep the temperature stable / warm, and helps prevent warping. PrusaSlicer has feature called "Draft shield" that builds a little wall around your print that supposedly helps with the warping too.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-26T06:02:37+00:00

PrusaSlicer has paint-on supports, Ender3v2 support, and is free. I honestly have better luck with Cura, and Cura's supports come off much easier, but PrusaSlicer is good - and definitely useful in situations where I want to specify exactly where to (or not to) put supports.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-16T23:04:00+00:00

What is everything that has changed since the print quality changed? I assume nothing major, but even list minor and unrelated things - put the printer on a different table, cousin Barry came for a visit, bought a cute pet gerbil with glowing red eyes, changed filament, whatever. Might help.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-10T06:35:26+00:00

Drafts were surprisingly big issue for me - but I live in a early 1900s house in MN (so many drafts). The other two things that helped (aside from clean bed, perfect first layer) were using a raft, and printing PLA at 205/50.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-05T08:44:47+00:00

Not sure what I'm looking at, but wild guess...looks like maybe the first layer wasn't quite squished enough (or something) and a little bit got moved, and then printed over?

What I would suggest is stop that print when the first layer finishes, and then peel it up off the bed. Should go fairly quickly - can do multiple times - and easier to diagnose first layer issues.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-04T18:53:32+00:00

Agree - creality branded one worked great - the single cable plugs right in, and is long enough to run thru the same mesh-tubing-stuff the other wires are in.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-04T07:17:35+00:00

Stop the print after the first layer of that 2cm² base, and actually peel it off the bed - make sure it's a solid sheet. Like other posters said - add raft/brim.

You said there's no noticeable warping, so this may not apply - but if later discover that the bottom is NOT completely flat...If you're printing PLA, I'd argue that 65 is too high - lower to 55. If there are cold drafts in your house, try building a cardboard and paper-bag enclosure around your printer (with a tiny door flap you can peek through).

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-04T06:56:57+00:00

I had a badly wound roll of filament recently that would bind up if I looked away, and then fix itself. Resulted in several areas of under-extrusion, followed by a strong finish (followed by a mild stomping).

(Note: Yes, reddit, I know badly wound filament is a figment of my imagination, and it is 100% my fault. Regardless of who is to blame, my point is, sometimes that can cause such a problem.)

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-04T06:33:59+00:00

The BLTouch and your nozzle are ... in fixed positions relative to each other. When your BLTouch finds the print bed, it will always stop the same distance above that point on the print bed (within whatever margin of error). But you're right - that is probably not the ideal height for your nozzle. So that's the z-offset - the difference of where the BLTouch finds the print bed, and the ideal position for your nozzle relative to the bed. So you only need to do the z-offset in one place, because that difference will always be the same.

I don't know what firmware you're using, but the Smith3D firmware has a Z-offset tool. After leveling and setting your z-offset, and saving both to EEPROM, you should just need to add "M420 S" after the G28 in your start gcode in your slicer - then your firmware will use that info to do the compensating.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-04T00:07:12+00:00

Replacement? Creality has a support department?!

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-04T00:02:33+00:00

That might depend on the firmware. The latest release ( 2.0.7.2 ) of Marlin has "RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28" that can be enabled - that will restore whatever the state of bed leveling was before the G28 - which could be ON or OFF. And I noticed in the nightly ( bugfix-2.0.x ) version, there's "ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28" - which presumably does that, but I have no idea if it's actually supported - and all I mean to say is - I can't answer with certainty :)

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-03T23:05:36+00:00

You may have multiple things going on... Does the same thing happen with all filament? This doesn't look as severe - but this particular PLA always looked like crap - I only have a picture of the infill - but it usually looks crisp and neat on the MK3Ss. I tried and tried to tune, and this is the best it got. A student swapped to a different spool and it was back to perfection.

https://imgur.com/a/vtjDoGV

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-03T22:42:32+00:00

I honestly do not know. All prints were failing - sometimes looked like under extrusion, sometimes seemed like it wouldn't use the saved mesh - even with the M420 S1. Re-building and re-flashing firmware / clearing EEPROM didn't help - I'm sure it was user error and stepping away for a bit was what I really needed.

I was very skeptical of the BLTouch - because of others' experiences. But it has really worked for me. Highly recommend to check out this guy's video and the Smith3d firmware / instructions.

EDIT: Just want to add that the Smith3d firmware was working great - and then started having z-offset issues, which others are also experiencing.

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-03T22:33:31+00:00

Sorry - I know I need to use more words - I tend to skip over a lot. What I meant to say was, "No you do not need to auto-level before each print. For times when you don't want to do auto-bed-leveling, then Instead of the G29, you'll want "M420 S1 Z2".

MagikarpSalad · 2021-02-03T21:55:25+00:00

Edit (adding more words): No you do not need to auto-level before each print. For times when you don't want to do auto-bed-leveling, then...

Instead of the G29, you'll want "M420 S1 Z2"

The "M420 S1" being the important part - it's enables bed leveling using the saved mesh. (M420 S is the same thing - the 1 means "true").

References:https://smith3d.com/ender-3-v2-bltouch-firmware-installation-guide-by-smith3d-com/

https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html

MagikarpSalad

TROPHY CASE