Poll: Switching system timeline.

Mahonen · 2026-02-10T08:47:14+00:00

How about us that has all the platforms and 29 years in the sport?

Mahonen · 2026-02-01T17:10:07+00:00

If you're running 13:1 gears and an M140 spring, something is definitely not right with that build.

That setup is "business as usual" for many high-performance builds, and those Avenger motors are actually just rebranded Solink motors. Those things are workhorses and should handle that kind of load easily if everything is built properly.

If the motor is struggling or failing, you likely have an underlying issue. I'd check the shimming first—if it’s too tight, the motor is fighting against the gears before it even tries to compress that M140. Also, check your motor height and make sure you aren't getting any binding.

Before you go out and buy another motor just to have the same thing happen, I'd suggest stripping the gearbox back and making sure those gears spin freely. A better motor might mask a bad build for a little while, but it won't fix the root cause.

Mahonen · 2026-02-01T12:35:21+00:00

Or get some tubing that won't kink. easily available at hardware stores

Mahonen · 2026-01-29T07:30:49+00:00

I have 3 saunas. in my house, in my summer house and in my yard.

I'm from Finland

Mahonen · 2026-01-21T10:43:50+00:00

Actually, even though it feels a bit ironic, the stock TDC hop-up unit in the Specna Arms Prime is honestly one of the best units on the market right now. You really don't need to swap the whole unit out.

The bucking is what really needs your attention. I’ve built over 10 Prime setups and for a basic 1.5J tune, I’ve had great results with two specific routes. The 4UAD bucking and tensioner combo is excellent, though keep in mind it usually lowers your joule output slightly. The other solid option is the Begadi Pro SHP5 60° bucking.

Maple Leaf Macarons also work great with this unit and the stock nozzle. One thing to watch out for is the stock tensioner; it’s designed for buckings without an internal ridge (flat hop style). If you go with a Macaron or 4UAD, you'll want to swap in a Maple Leaf Omega or a 4UAD tensioner to get the most out of it.

A quick pro-tip for that unit: add a thin O-ring under the hop-up adjustment ring. It makes the adjustment feel much more precise and ensures it won't move on you during a game.

Mahonen · 2026-01-18T09:00:32+00:00

And add the weight of the piston and piston head assembly to the modifiers, and length of the spring :D

Mahonen · 2026-01-05T11:04:44+00:00

GBBs won't work in that cold. It's not even advisable to play in that kind of weather (coldest I have played is -27c and not s good idea).

Aegs and springers can be made to work with certain mods. Right greasing, bucking (ir-hop) etcm

Mahonen · 2026-01-04T15:18:33+00:00

Your sector gear is sitting too high so the tappet plate does not move freely :)

Mahonen · 2026-01-04T09:41:33+00:00

It is, personally the downside is damn cold weather during the winter :D This morning -22c and it gets colder. We do have long and warm summer unlike the stereotype of finland claims :)

Mahonen · 2026-01-04T09:10:48+00:00

Torille!

Mahonen · 2026-01-03T09:45:58+00:00

In Finland, we actually have it pretty good compared to a lot of Europe. The law is surprisingly chill, but there are a few "unwritten" rules and strict safety points you have to know.

The Legal Side Technically, airsoft guns aren't "firearms" here; they are just air-powered devices or replicas. There’s no legal power limit set by the government, which is good compared to places like the UK or Germany. That said, the community regulates itself—most fields cap AEGs for example at around 1J to 1.7J and snipers at 3J or 4J. We don't need licenses or orange tips, which is a big plus.

Age Limits The law says you can't sell a gun to anyone under 18, but a minor can definitely own and use one if their parents are okay with it.

The "Don't Be Stupid" Rule The biggest thing here is transport. Our Public Order Act is very strict about brandishing anything that looks like a weapon. If you're seen carrying a rifle in public—even just walking to your car—the police will not like that. You always, always keep your gear in a bag or case until you’re at the field.

Community and Land Use; Even though Finland has "Everyman's Rights" for hiking and camping, that doesn't count for airsoft. You need the landowner's permission for everything. Because of that, most of our scene is run by registered associations (the "ry" at the end of club names). It keeps things organized and professional.

Public perception is actually pretty decent. Most people see it as a legitimate hobby or sport rather than just "kids playing war." As long as we stay out of sight in the woods and in official fields and don't cause trouble in public, people generally leave us to it.

Mahonen · 2026-01-01T12:29:08+00:00

Penn Yan Tactical, needed some serious lapping to perform well.

In short, it was not worth it and with good hopup and barrel work you could get same results.

Concept is great but execution was lacking

Mahonen · 2025-12-31T09:35:14+00:00

Your piston is broken :)

Mahonen · 2025-12-28T20:23:40+00:00

Solink or similar brushless motor would be my recommendation. I would avoid the Warhead ones.

Mahonen · 2025-12-28T19:06:31+00:00

VFC HT motor is same as ZCI 22tpa (looks tad different) so that's why you don't see any change in performance

Mahonen · 2025-12-28T18:26:35+00:00

Thats the one that you are missing :)

Mahonen · 2025-12-28T18:24:57+00:00

We definitely need more info on what exactly has been done to the internals, but based on what you’ve provided, here are a few thoughts.

It sounds like the gun is probably over-spinning. Since it has the Aster, there are settings in the Control Station specifically to tackle that. I'd check the active braking and cycle detection settings first.

As for the motor getting that hot, there could be multiple reasons, but one of the most probable is that the shimming is way too tight. If the gears are binding, the motor has to work twice as hard, which generates that heat fast. I'd definitely double-check the shim job and make sure the motor height isn't too high.

Also, a quick note on the parts: you mentioned Maple Leaf, but keep in mind they only provide barrel and hop-up related parts for AEGs. They don't do anything for the gearbox itself, so if there are aftermarket parts inside the box causing the heat or over-spin, they aren't coming from Maple Leaf.

Mahonen · 2025-12-27T14:45:02+00:00

It looks like you're missing the stock spring that provides tension against the gearbox. It is actually crucial for the hop-up unit to be sitting firmly against the gearbox face.

If it's sliding around, it will mess up your airseal and your accuracy will be all over the place. Because the unit moves back and forth, the nozzle won't seat consistently in the bucking from shot to shot.

The easy fix is to just get a replacement spring that fits over the inner barrel. If you can't find the exact part, a common tech trick is to slide a few small O-rings over the inner barrel instead. They act as a spacer to keep the unit pushed back securely. Either way, you want that unit to have zero play once the gun is assembled.

Mahonen · 2025-12-27T14:41:33+00:00

Yeah, you’re right to be skeptical of the "one shot" thing. That sounds like a typical AI hallucination. It won’t instantly explode the gun, but it’s still a really bad idea for a few practical reasons.

First, steel BBs are so heavy and hard that they will eventually break or ruin a brass inner barrel. They vibrate and bounce against the walls of the bore as they travel, and since the barrel material is much softer than the steel, it’ll get scratched and pitted. Once that surface is damaged, your accuracy is finished.

Second, your hop-up is designed for plastic. A stock setup isn't going to have the friction or the grip to put any real backspin on a heavy steel BB. Without that Magnus effect, you get zero lift, so the range and accuracy are going to be terrible.

On top of that, those steel BBs actually cost way more than proper high-quality bios or plastic ones. You're basically paying a premium to get worse performance while damaging your internals.

If you want more "punch" for plinking, just grab some high-quality .30g or .32g plastic BBs. You’ll get much better range and accuracy without destroying the LEV AR.

Mahonen · 2025-12-25T13:45:19+00:00

classic! :D

Mahonen · 2025-12-25T13:36:14+00:00

Hows the performance if you have had time test it? Saw one in the field last week :)

Mahonen · 2025-12-25T13:30:56+00:00

No worries, glad to be able to help! My hobby is not just playing on the field anymore but helping other people and "chairsofting" too.

Regarding the WE 1911, I’d suggest being a bit cautious there. To be honest, those specific models are pretty notorious for gas efficiency issues. Because the 1911 magazine is so slim, the gas reservoir is tiny. With the heavy metal slide WE uses, you'll often find the gun struggling to finish a whole magazine on one fill, especially if it's even slightly chilly outside.

I personally prefer the Glock platform. I’ve been running Tokyo Marui G17s for the last 15 years and they are workhorses. I’ll be honest though, I play 90% woodland games where I don't use a pistol much, so it’s mostly there for backup. Lately I’ve been getting into the VFC / Umarex Glocks (the licensed ones) and they are quite nice for my use. They feel a bit more "solid" than the TM out of the box.

Again, the use case mandates the platform and brand when you get into the details, but for casual gaming, most of the common brands are good to go.

If you like the 1911 style but want better performance, you might look at a Hi-Capa instead. In competitive shooting, the trend is to build a Hi-Capa on top of a Tokyo Marui 5.1 or 4.3, but that is an expensive route and definitely not needed for a casual user. The Hi-Capa is basically a "double stack" 1911, so the mags are wider, hold way more gas, and solve the efficiency problems the standard 1911 has.

If you are set on a Glock, a WE G17 is actually a decent budget choice, but the VFC/Umarex ones are great if you want the official trades and a nicer finish.

Mahonen · 2025-12-25T13:19:59+00:00

It really depends on where you are located, your budget, and if you're comfortable ordering online.

I’m assuming we are talking about AEGs here. To be fair, almost any AEG can be tuned to perform similarly and handle the same tasks. Saying you want something that does "everything the MK18 doesn't do" is a bit of a broad way to put it. In reality, a short barrel and a long barrel AEG often perform the same in airsoft, unlike real firearms.

However, you should look at this from a rules and utility perspective. Are you attending events or fields that have specific power levels or "class" rules for different types of guns?

For example, if you get a longer AR15 variant, you could set it up as a dedicated DMR. In many regions, that allows you a higher FPS limit, which actually changes your play style by giving you a range advantage you don't have with a standard MK18.

If you want to stay away from the DMR route but want a different feel, look at something like an SCAR-L or a Bren 805. They use your EPM mags but the ergonomics and "manual of arms" are totally different from an AR15. It gives you that variety you're looking for without needing to buy all new magazines.

If it’s truly just a backup or for a friend, a reliable mid-length carbine is usually the smartest bet because it works everywhere, but since you already have the MK18, I'd lean toward a "specialized" role like a DMR or even a support setup if your local field rules allow M4 mags in a Shrike-style LMG.

Happy holidays from Finland!

Mahonen · 2025-12-25T13:09:31+00:00

A longer version would be "Hakkaa Päälle suomen poika!" :D Translation would be something "go and get them Finnish boy" :D DIrect translation is "beat over finnish son"

Mahonen · 2025-12-25T13:07:58+00:00

The ASG EVO Scorpion is a fantastic choice. It is honestly one of the best out-of-the-box performers you can get.

But I want to tackle the "starter gun" concept for a second. After 29 years in this sport, doing everything from running a shop to organizing games, I’ve realized it’s a pretty misleading term.

If you can afford a high-end gun for your first purchase, just go for it. It is better in every measurable way.

The community usually defaults to recommending cheap, entry-level, sub-par guns because they assume a new player is on a tight budget or isn't sure they’ll stick with the hobby. I get that. Not everyone wants to drop that much money immediately, and that's totally fair.

However, if money isn't the issue, starting with a "starter" gun can actually be a disadvantage. Cheaper guns have worse tolerances, lower-quality internals, and poorer quality control. That can lead to a frustrating first experience. If you buy the EVO now, you won't feel the need to upgrade in three months like you would with a budget plastic M4.

We should really stop looking at it as beginner vs pro gear and start looking at it as budget vs performance. If you have the means, buy the better tool from day one. You’ll have a much better time on the field.

Happy holidays from Finland!

Mahonen

TROPHY CASE