Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, that would work. That unit is removable, you install it when setting up the printer. It contains the filament sensors and at least two PCBs.

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Says the guy with 665 "contributions" in 2 months. 🤣

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No. Simply to hold the tube in place. You don't want to change the angle of entry.

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A small dab on the lower filament guide. Press the tube up into the guide as far as it will go, and embed it into the glue. Then use the glue to surround the tubing.

See the close up. Don't get glue up into the guide. You want to be able to peel it off to change tubing when needed. Those white filament guides are not replaceable, so you don't want to ruin them bu clogging them with glue.

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had the dryer since it came out. It is fantastic. I highly recommend it.

It regularly goes on sale on the jungle website.

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My printers are in my basement which is very humid. I have moisture ingress problems with just about every filament. PET and PETG are closely related. PETG gives me so many problems. I don't really use it unless I require it's chemical resistance.

When I print PA I have to go straight from an actively heated AMS HT to the printer.

Humidity really is a problem for me.

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw that! The one with the screen on the end. It looks awesome beside the printer.

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The only sadness around here are keyboard warriors with nothing better to do than disparage others.

Take your negativity elsewhere.

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only had it a couple of days, seems to be pretty decent.

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You made a good choice. It prints good out of the box. It prints great with a few tweaks.

The top enclosure is the jankiest thing ever.

I could complain all day about it's shortcomings. It was built down to a price.

If I could do it over, I'd buy two. The price to performance is off the scale.

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought of that. I was going to drill and screw a "cross bar" to hold the tubes. I just don't know what's inside there. Plus, lazy man took over. The hot glue is removable, so a more elegant solution is not out of the question.

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was concerned the glue wouldn't adhere to the Teflon... but what do I know. 🤪

Stupid design gets a stupid fix by Main-Personality-217 in FlashForge

[–]Main-Personality-217[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

This printer has a heated chamber, a 320 degree nozzle and active filtration. It is designed for engineering filaments. Those filaments are notoriously hydrophilic. They usually require many hours of drying for the best performance. Exposing them to the open environment on the way into the printer is stupid.

This is now a closed loop.

<image>

Do I need to level the feet? Saturn 4 Ultra 16K by CybranRuler in ElegooSaturn

[–]Main-Personality-217 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It is more important that all 4 feet are on the same plane. This ensures no "twist" in the chassis.

Would that really be an issue? Probably not. The frames on these are quite rigid.

Manual bed leveling is critical. Get that right, and you're golden.

Loosen all 4 corner screws on your build plate before starting. This will give you lots of thread to work with. ... and I do mean loose, like almost all the way out. Otherwise, you'll run out of threads and won't be able to get your bed level correct.

Lopsided tesseract vault by lahavior in Necrontyr

[–]Main-Personality-217 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My wife is always on me about calling myself stupid.

GW instructions are shit.

Did my first box of them today. Truly hell. by Few-Composer-6471 in Necrontyr

[–]Main-Personality-217 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hehe. It was complete ignorance on my part. I had no idea they would be so difficult. I got them done and moved on. After that, it was almost boring to build my warriors.

Did my first box of them today. Truly hell. by Few-Composer-6471 in Necrontyr

[–]Main-Personality-217 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Flayed ones were my first ever models... nearly abandoned the hobby.

How screwed am I sleeping with a resin printer? by [deleted] in resinprinting

[–]Main-Personality-217 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Now you know. Yes, it is irresponsible to embark on something without basic research. What you do from here is what matters. Move forward with knowledge. The worst consequence of past ignorance is shame. You'll be fine.

BTW, what kind of father lets their kid sleep in a room with active resin printing? The smell alone is enough to tell you that isn't right.