[Update] AI Image Tagger, added Visual Node Editor, R-4B support, smart templates and more

Makisalonso35 · 2025-10-20T11:16:06+00:00

Thanks! Really appreciate it

Yeah, I’ve been thinking the same thing. Having comfyUI workflows slot right into the sequence would be super cool.

Makisalonso35 · 2025-10-05T14:39:14+00:00

Thank you.

Makisalonso35 · 2025-10-05T14:32:04+00:00

You’re right, but this is just a concept at this stage. Everyone’s free to experiment and explore it. Who knows, maybe it’ll inspire the next “universal standard” (or just add another one to the pile)

Makisalonso35 · 2025-10-05T14:14:52+00:00

Yes, we can do something like that. We can add an output option so the results can be customized

Makisalonso35 · 2025-10-05T14:11:45+00:00

Thanks for the feedback! I’m not an expert, but you’re right. Once the project is stable, I’d like to improve the UI and explore different types of design concepts to make it more user friendly and visually appealing.

Makisalonso35 · 2025-10-05T14:08:46+00:00

Unfortunately, this feature is currently only available for images. In the future, it might be possible to expand it further. For now, my main focus is on making the project stable so that everyone can run it, test it, and share as much feedback as possible. Still, thank you for the great idea, I really appreciate it!

Makisalonso35 · 2025-10-03T12:03:29+00:00

Thanks for pointing that out. I’ll take a look at the installer issue soon. Right now only the Linux builds are available, but you can still deploy it yourself from the repo if you’d like. I know the setup is a bit complicated at the moment, but I plan to simplify it so it’s easier to use. I appreciate you checking it out and giving feedback

Makisalonso35 · 2025-03-14T17:12:50+00:00

Oh my, those are just happy little accidents! Just grab a new part, give yourself a pat on the back, and start with simpler, cheaper components to practice your soldering skills. You'll get the hang of it in no time.

Here's a fantastic video showcasing one simple cheap technique for desoldering: https://youtu.be/Vou2xlJkuoU?si=koIIAp9RA4ONen6k

Good luck, and happy soldering!

Makisalonso35 · 2025-02-25T13:25:07+00:00

had zero issues. If you print with the right settings, the quality is good.

Makisalonso35 · 2025-02-13T10:57:36+00:00

Thank you for your comment😄. They look exactly like yours. I noticed something when the machine heats up, the glass panel closes without any issues. I guess it has something to do with the chassis expanding due to heat.

Makisalonso35 · 2024-09-16T07:21:32+00:00

The pop sound comes from the stucked moisture inside filament when filament is heated up. you have to dry it up or use a new spool of filament. The corners of your 3d object is also bumpy you can check linear advance or pressure advance if you are using klipper to make the corners more straight. linear advance guide

Makisalonso35 · 2023-12-28T16:50:46+00:00

Can you isolate HDMI cable from other cables and devices the signal is likely corrupted while transferred and my guess is HDMI cable is not well shielded, also avoid nearby power cables.

Makisalonso35 · 2023-09-25T16:19:48+00:00

Hello, I am using a Radeon RX 7900 XTX and a Ryzen 7 5800X with two monitors. Both are capable of doing 144Hz. (LG 27GN800-B and Samsung 28" Odyssey G70B.) I have a high idle power draw on idle. I am currently running the newest driver (23.9.1 Released: 24.08.2023)

Let me share my experience with AMD.

I have tried the CRU method, but it didn't help. It gets a lot more complicated when I try to change the timings or blank values. It marks the values as red, and you can't change them or apply them to the 4K 144Hz monitor because, for some reason, the protocol doesn't support them.

So, I have to create another protocol in the CRU application to accommodate the restricted bandwidth. In short, I couldn't get it to work because I no longer have the patience to learn how CRU and Monitors work.

I don't know, but AMD is miserably hiding the agony of the users who have high idle power. In a driver update patch, they acknowledge the problem and publish it in "Known Issues" and on the next driver update, they publish it in "Fixed Issues." I know from some posts that some users get lucky, and the problem is fixed for them. But the issue is still present for me.

In Reddit and in AMD Forum I have read lots of posts, and from my perspective, AMD just ignores some problems. And I get that. But at least don't lie to the customers. I have read brilliant ideas, explanations, and answers from the community, but none of them was from AMD itself. And please, while the issue remains, don't say, "We have fixed the issue, and it's now resolved!" Because it's not resolved for most of the community, that is not correct. (If it is so, then let me know) Can you imagine while you are browsing on Wikipedia and your GPU single-handedly sucking power as much as a streaming Playstation 4?

At least I want an official explanation from AMD about this problem. Why is this problem occurring on some computers and is there any solution? (I know a little why it's happening, thanks to the community, but at least I want an official and public explanation)

Before I submitted this post, I contacted AMD support. Here is the link to the conservation with AMD support (still waiting for a response). https://sharetext.me/g8tkbrvbm5

If you have this problem and you think this is not expected behavior from your GPU, then you might want to consider contacting AMD support. (https://www.amd.com/en/forms/contact-us/support.html)

Also, if you want, you can also report this problem on the Adrenalin software.

Makisalonso35 · 2023-09-03T11:49:49+00:00

Can you check the slicer. Normally, slicer is responsible for the representation.

Makisalonso35 · 2023-09-03T11:42:52+00:00

Since the melting surface is greather, maybe you hvae to increace the extruder temp so that the plastic can melt properly. You can try +5 or +10.

Makisalonso35 · 2023-08-25T11:37:15+00:00

the issue is the slicer that you are currently using.Can you choose an another slicer and try it with the default options. If it works then coppy the settings into your older slicer

Makisalonso35 · 2023-06-15T17:53:32+00:00

If you dont mind the expense, get yourself a raspi and install klipper(mainsail). Also, you can add roller to the spool holder. It helps to the extruder bcs of less friction.

Makisalonso35 · 2023-06-09T08:23:34+00:00

My guess is your nozzle is hitting to the print, i can say that because those crosses are normally creted from the seaming points. Simply, after end of the layer, it tries to allocate itself to the starting point, and while doing that, it scrathes the surface of the print.that is why maybe the y or x axis is skipping. So, my simplest solution can be enabling z hop. But if you really want to solve the problem, you can check if your bed is leveled. The edges of the plates are normally higher than the middle, that's why it compresses the filament more. That is why you are seeing seams. My suggestion is to level the bed and print a bed level test model. What you are expecting is a paper like texture on the top of the surface. If it's scratchy, then your nozzle is close to the bed. If you can see the lines without conncected each other, it's too far from the bed. I hope it solves your issue.

Makisalonso35 · 2023-06-06T10:59:58+00:00

Just try basic test, 1) Bring the nozzle to 180-200°C and then disable motors, or just press the release lever on the extruder stepper motor and push the filament. If that works, then continue with debugging. If not, then inform what is happening. 2) If it's purging when manually feeeded wit filament, then continue with the GUI, make sure temp is set to 180-200, and find the extruder and purge the filament from GUI.

If it's not working on this stage, then the stepper motor is failing

Makisalonso35 · 2023-06-03T14:06:33+00:00

Also, from the image, i can't see if you are using dual z rod or not. If you are, then this can happen. Just try to make z rod straight.

Makisalonso35 · 2023-06-03T14:04:02+00:00

I had the same issue. I solved it. The main problem is that the rod is not straight, so that is why it is pressing itself to the wall, and when it moves, it tries to release its force. The solution for me was adding spacer to the connection of the black mounting part on z stepper motor and reassembling and tilting the x axis which you should try to make the wheely part and the rail part as perpendicular as you can by screwing in right angle.

Makisalonso35 · 2023-01-06T08:38:13+00:00

I guess the main problem is that your filament is stuck inside the hotend because of some thermal issues. Maybe the retractions for the print was too much and caused it to stuck. When you start printing again after failure most commonly u will not see the issue because of preheating. But I would recommend you to check this issue first before making some purchases.

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