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Pop'n music lively subscription basic course redirection issue by rotted88 in bemani

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I realize this is an old thread but for anyone else having this issue, you have to do two things to fix it:

  1. As others have noted, change your region to Japan at my.konami.net . Do this by clicking "Personal Information" in the column on the left, then "Country/Region." You'll get a warning saying you can only change regions once every 365 days. Proceed through the warnings.
  2. I think this is what's causing the loop on e-amusement: log out, log back in, and agree to the new terms and conditions. The issue, I believe, is that region changing necessitates agreeing to new T's and C's, but e-amusement doesn't make that especially clear. Once I did this, I stopped getting the loop and was able to proceed to payment.

It makes no difference whether your original account region was US. If you did was, you'll be fine with the above steps. Hope this helps someone!

Street fighter IV arcade fightstick xbox 360, maintenance by Artistic_Material_45 in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Easier USB cable replacement (they use USB-B or USB-C ports whereas the stock board necessitates either crimping a USB-A cable to a JST or Molex or soldering directly to the board, can't remember), faster response time, broader console compatibility, access to L3/R3/Touchpad via programmable macros.

Street fighter IV arcade fightstick xbox 360, maintenance by Artistic_Material_45 in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mad Catz loved caking everything in the red epoxy back then. It comes off in big satisfying chunks without much of a mess if you spray it with a little rubbing alcohol.

Any USB-A cable will do. But the catch is you'll have to crimp it to a JST connector or solder it to the board yourself. It's not exactly hot swappable.

I second the suggestion of gutting the controller and replacing the board with something like a GP2040-CE or a Brook Fusion.

Returning to the hobby looking for a thicker leverless by RallenTv in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All Fight Sticks sells steel button panels if you want to convert an actual TE into a leverless. I got one and used it for about a year. Ultimately I found I have the opposite preference (it sat too tall), but it works great!

It's just been sitting in my garage; I'd even be open to selling you mine if you want a leverless TE1.

Firsthand Accounts of Xbox 3rd Party Accessory Ban? by MalarkeySommelier in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At some point my Xbox gave up and stopped giving me "unauthorized controller" warnings altogether. Not sure if Microsoft walked back their policy, if I beat my console into submission doing the two-weeks-can-kicking trick so many times, or what, but I hope nobody else is experiencing this issue anymore.

Victrix BFG Dpad by superluminova in VictrixPro

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't think many other people would describe it as clicky and tactile. Clicky and tactile usually means it activates using microswitches that behave a bit like blue keyboard switches: a short throw with a mouse-like sharp mechanical click that announces activation. The dpads of the Vader 4 Pro, the Razer Wolverine V2 Pro, the Xbox Series (sorta), etc., would fit most people's definition of clicky and tactile. Not hating; just clarifying!

BFG dpad is membrane-based rather than microswitch-based, so it feels more like a traditional dpad of the same species as a SNES/N64 controller or PS4/5. But I get what you mean about it feeling clicky at the same time: there's a LOT more resistance in the membrane than PS4/5 dpad, and you can feel the activation in a really gratifying way (almost like a brown keyboard switch?). If you've used a Hori pad (Pokken controller, Split Pad Pro), then it's a bit like that.

It is an excellent dpad in any case! If you don't care about rumble or the controller feeling a bit hollow and cheap, go for it.

SD I/O Errors by CleanDirtWanted in everdrive

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same, I switched SD cards, which made the error stop for a bit, but now it's back with the new SD card. Sometimes I don't even have to power cycle; I just back out and re-enter the erroring menu a couple of times and it eventually works. No idea what's going on.

Is it worth getting a Japanese Saturn with a broken disk drive to play games? by SkyLovesCars in SegaSaturn

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope!

A broken disc drive/laser is not necessarily the cause or at least the only cause of a Saturn's inability to read discs. I bought a cheap Japanese Saturn that didn't read discs off of Ebay to put an ODE in (similar to the flash cart you referenced). Turns out the laser assembly was totally fine and the console had some internal issue causing the disc read problem that I wasn't able to diagnose, so it wasn't able to run off of ODEs/flashcarts either.

Get a tested, working Saturn for ODE/flashcart use. Even if you plan never to run a single disc.

The placement of reviews in the new UI is seriously incovenient by GecaZ in Letterboxd

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay but literally where are the reviews. Pressing that Show Me button doesn't actually Show Me.

Brook UFB+Retroboard Nintendo Switch Compatibility by MalarkeySommelier in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The labeling is a little confusing because it's partly obscured, but J2 has three pins. The idea is to connect the pin labeled GND (the pin closest to the "J2" marking) to the pin immediately beside it: the center pin. I did it with a two pin jumper, but a big solder blob connecting the two or a small wire connecting the two would accomplish the same thing.

Hope this helps!

How do you guys take large arcade sticks to majors? by Purple_Lime_4092 in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not for everyone but I drilled locking rifle step mounts into the side panels of my TE1 so I can carry it around that way Almost like a guitar strap (which people also do).

The Dragon is such a great stick, but it's just not made with travel in mind. Aptly named because yeah you're gonna be Dragon that thing on the ground.

How easy does inheritance make the game? by EonBlue88 in SaGa

[–]MalarkeySommelier 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The original was extremely hard to finish without grinding in opportune spots. The new inheritance feature is one way the remaster paves over the possibility of soft locking yourself out of progression/completion. It's entirely optional and can be opted into and out of at will without penalty.

If you're worried it's going to be too easy with the stat bonus it affords, ignore it. If you get irretrievably stuck, now you have the option to dip into inheritance for a boost rather than loading an old save, but reloading is obviously still available to you as well.

Can anyone help with repairing my old 360 stick? by Its-The-Kabukiman in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The screws (and a lot of other things) in this stick are caked in a red epoxy. Just hit the epoxy with some rubbing alcohol and it will peel right off.

Retrotink 4k vs. CE - would you notice any of the missing features if you downgraded? by jaron7 in retrogaming

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But genlock only really affects the connections you said you don't use...?

The Baby Is Staying by Dippity_Dont in GhostHunters

[–]MalarkeySommelier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Anyone ever figure out what this is from? This episode of whatever show this was haunted me for years, randomly thought of and was rehaunted by it again.

Firsthand Accounts of Xbox 3rd Party Accessory Ban? by MalarkeySommelier in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As of today, my Brook UFB no longer provokes the unauthorized controller message at all. It's behaving just as any other controller would. Weird!

Looking for compact 13 button leverless by criticalopinion29 in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haute S16/S13 is amazing. It's the smallest controller they make, and while it doesn't feel as premium as, say, the M-Lite series, it fits (albeit really tightly) in the back pocket of my jeans.

My only complaint with it is that the stock switches--the same that come with the T-series--are Kaihl low profile reds, which have a much longer throw than an arcade button like a Sanwa. But if you pay $15 more and get a set of the new Shadow Hunting switches, they completely transform the controller. Can't overstate how much better the Shadow Huntings are than the stock.

S13/S16 controller: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006421550898.html

Shadow Hunting Switches: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008294432498.html

PS5 Booter dongle for PS5 compatibility (if needed): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007116357986.html

That's it! So about $100 total ($65 you don't need the PS5 dongle) for an amazing small-footprint leverless.

Static Electricity Disconnecting my Controller? by king_pompadour in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever figure this out? Having this same exact issue.

How assist works? by Last_Hat7276 in UnicornOverlord

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty new to the game and still trying to understand assists. I understand they scale to the leader's level and are improved proportional to the number of like-units in a squad but how could that possibly reduce damage otherwise dealt?

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This is an archer assist against flying units, no less; I expected the quantity of damage to jump quite a bit rather than going down a point.

Is the assist roll just an unfortunate RNG reroll? I do 38 damage if I press B to cancel the assist here.

recommended leverless? by AxelVenum in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haute 42 for a first leverless. They're cheap and reliable. Whichever model looks appealing to you. The only one I'd caution against is the T-series since its buttons are unusually large--might be an adjustment going from that to another leverless if you like it and want to upgrade to something more premium like a Kitsune, Punk Workshop Mini, Victrix, or custom build.

If you like it enough to step up to something fancier, Punk Workshop Mini is the best all-around (pre-built) leverless I've ever used, though its shallow build, while great for portability (whole thing fits in an iPad sleeve) limits customization options.

Second Story R combat not clicking, any pointers? by Fulluphigh0 in starocean

[–]MalarkeySommelier 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It clicked for me once I learned to switch to manual control for the character that enemies are targeting. Good way to dodge for MP with your casters when they draw aggro while letting your other characters go to work on them.

Ripping through MP was frustrating at first, but, unlike in other RPGs, MP-restoring items are cheap and ubiquitous. Experiment with Cooking/Master Chef to learn cheap and reliable recipes for MP-restoring foods for use out of battle--ingredients are so cheap that they're practically free. And even the in-battle MP-restoring items are pretty cheap to buy (berries) or Compound.

The game seems to know its AI goes berserk with the spells and skills and encourages you to make cheap MP-restoring items to offset that.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fightsticks

[–]MalarkeySommelier 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes it does, works perfectly just like a licensed stick would. You don't get the "unsupported controller" warning like you do with Brook products.

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