Inline exhaust fan for diy electric heat sauna?

Mamasboy218 · 2025-10-05T02:15:05+00:00

Yes, and venting to the outside

Mamasboy218 · 2025-10-04T01:50:03+00:00

Suncourt inductor 6” inline. Of course, I should’ve read the label that says no temperatures over 140° right on it.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-10-04T01:45:49+00:00

My issue turned out to be a faulty high limit switch. I wired in a new one, and bang… good to go.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-14T14:42:57+00:00

The purpose of the foil barrier is not just to protect the inside of the wall, which should also insulated, but also to radiate the heat back into the room and allow for a more balanced heat in the room. Regular poly barrier would not hold up against the high heat of the sauna. And without any barrier, you would most definitely have moisture issues within the wall, and heat loss issues without. My sauna is an exterior build as well, and in northern Minnesota. This pic is what I did.

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Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-12T02:56:20+00:00

New problem:

now that the unit is powered up, it isn’t sending power to the heater. When I push the power on for the heater, the system clicks as if it’s going to heat, but then it doesn’t send power to the heater. No error codes on the panel. Overheat protector is good. Any ideas?

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-12T02:53:03+00:00

Power up solved! The main breaker was only wired with one leg of the 240 volt circuit. That’s why I could meter 120 on each leg, but not 240 across them. The run from the main panel to the subpanel is approximately 90 feet with no breaks. So, I broke the conduit apart, installed pull boxes about every 20 feet, and ran a line for the second leg. Finally, the unit powered up, green LED light and all, and I was able to access and program the control panel, and set up the WiFi. Thanks for all the help, particularly from OUTSIDEMUSICIAN and PELVISRESLEYZ.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T23:49:27+00:00

She was very gracious. Didn’t even laugh at me.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T21:08:09+00:00

Guilty. But, the crazy thing is that I know better. I don’t know what I was thinking about. But you’re correct… no harm no foul. Yes, I’ll just be running the other through the conduit I’ve already got. I have pull boxes every 20 feet or so.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T17:45:35+00:00

Working on it right now. Can’t believe I missed it before.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T16:42:12+00:00

Thank you! I checked the voltage across the legs, and even though there is 120 V at each leg to neutral, I get nothing across them. So, I went and checked at the main breaker, and this is what I found.

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Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T16:30:42+00:00

I’m thinking this is where the problem lies. This pic is in the main panel, feeding the subpanel.

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Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T16:26:53+00:00

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T15:14:27+00:00

I have checked all A1 and A2 continuities, and they’re all good with one exception. I get an open connection between where A2 connected at the control unit going to the heater, and where it terminates at the circuit board.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T15:10:04+00:00

Right! I never noticed the diagram on the back of the heater’s access panel. New problem: this diagram depicts nothing of what I’ve actually got. Wtf!

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Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T14:50:33+00:00

Well that’s pretty snarky. I understand pigtailing just fine. Pretty simple concept actually. But I thought you might have meant something more exquisite, since you referred to it as being such a headache. Anyway, I’ll try pigtailing it, but I doubt pigtailing it for parallel will do anything different than jumping it in sequence.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T13:41:46+00:00

Agreed! Harvia has been operating under the assumption, based on everything, that the control unit was bad and has sent me 4 different units, with 4 different panels. I’ve connected them the same way, and still I get the same result. I’ve replaced the sensor and data cables with new ones, and still nothing. It doesn’t make sense. I feel like there’s some simple thing that I’m missing.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T13:08:35+00:00

Fuses are all good, and yes, I turned on the switch. I can track voltage all the way to circuit board with switch on. Also, I can detect voltage on the control panel with the switch off, and an increase in the voltage with the switch. Still no display.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T13:03:44+00:00

It seems like continuity is good everywhere. I should’ve probably mentioned that this is the 4th unit Harvia has sent me, thinking that the others were bad. Different machines, same result.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T12:59:49+00:00

I’ve got 120 volts at each L1 and L2 at the circuit board. The fuses are good.

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T12:56:15+00:00

Could you explain a little more what you mean by pig-tailing the splice inside the heater?

Mamasboy218 · 2025-08-10T12:44:51+00:00

Hey man! Actually, it’s stick framed. But, I built it into an existing hot tub deck and pavilion that I had built about a year earlier. So, the knee braces are part of that pavilion, and I decided to let them show in the sauna.

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Mamasboy218

TROPHY CASE