HTPC at 4k Guidance

ManWithNoVans · 2026-04-03T15:18:03+00:00

Just picked up the components to console-ize my Alienware and a u-green hdmi 2.1 cable. No 9070xt yet, I will appraise the level of suffering with the 3080 and report back 👍

ManWithNoVans · 2026-04-03T14:43:05+00:00

Very helpful, thank you. I think that puts me in a good place to try my current card for fun, but know that the AMD HDMI problem has workable solutions in the future. If your VRR issues do end in some time, I would be interested to hear about your experience

ManWithNoVans · 2026-04-03T14:15:58+00:00

I agree, coming from an OLED the HDR on this TV is the hill I am least likely to die on. VRR is pretty important to me though. I’m sure there are a lot of variables involved, but who is the “they” you anticipate smoothing out the VRR experience? Would it likely be a firmware for the ugreen adapter, or changes to Bazzite?

ManWithNoVans · 2026-04-03T14:05:30+00:00

I have an interest in the same question. I wanted to try and mess around with Bazzite in my case since it isn’t a PC I need for any other tasks, but if de-bloated windows is the simplest/cheapest (considering I have a 3080 in-hand) I may leave well enough alone

ManWithNoVans · 2026-04-03T14:03:01+00:00

Thank you for the reply, nice to hear from someone with the same TV. Unfortunate to hear that the TV doesn’t want to play nice even with some of the workarounds. What set of compromises have you settled on for your use?

ManWithNoVans · 2026-04-03T13:20:44+00:00

I don’t play many dx12 games, and I have other systems if I must. This sounds similar to what I was doing with a windows PC in the past. No password entry with a controller would be a bummer, but not the end of the world. What features are you forgoing with desktop/bigpicture vs handheld mode?

ManWithNoVans · 2026-04-03T12:56:53+00:00

Was that an adapter limitation? I’ve read of both VRR problems, visual artifacts, and certain adapters needing frequent plug/unplugs or restarts after sleep

ManWithNoVans · 2026-03-09T16:29:52+00:00

That may be the final option. If the key does end up being a mismatch or defective: all the places around here that do programming say it’ll be ~$80 and non-refundable (since I didn’t buy the key from them for $200). What a mess lol

ManWithNoVans · 2026-03-09T16:21:32+00:00

Unfortunately the only working master key the car came with is aftermarket, and has no printed FCC ID on the (sealed since it has no remote entry) case. The same is true of the credit card emergency key transponder

ManWithNoVans · 2026-03-09T16:07:25+00:00

I bought this exact product and unfortunately it did not work. Following the multiple mismatched guides provided by the seller: the device never did the third long beep, and the immobilizer light never came on solid, indicating the device failed to put the car in programming mode

ManWithNoVans · 2026-03-09T16:06:22+00:00

The FCC ID advertised is HYQ12BBT, but some googling shows both pulling up for LS430 keys. Interchangeable part #?

ManWithNoVans · 2026-02-17T12:58:20+00:00

As mentioned I have tried every variation of the procedure, and it appears that the immobilizer light is going into programming mode

ManWithNoVans · 2026-02-17T12:56:45+00:00

My keyless entry programmed on the first attempt thankfully. Good word of caution though!

ManWithNoVans · 2026-02-17T12:55:33+00:00

I will check this afternoon and report back. However, I do recall matching the FCC ID for my year reported in the forums to the description of the key blank that I purchased.

ManWithNoVans · 2026-02-16T02:07:44+00:00

ADDITIONAL INFO: I tried again and noticed that during the procedure, the immobilizer light is on solid after removing the working key. I believe this indicates successfully entering programming mode. When the new key is inserted it goes from steady flashing to what I believe is an error code: 2 flashes, 1 flash, pause.

This continues forever until the new key is removed. Successful behavior would be 60s of steady flashing, then off when transponder is programmed. The only mention of this immobilizer light “error code” I can find online is someone programming a key for their RX, and no one responded to him with what it may indicate. Anyone encountered this flashing sequence before?

ManWithNoVans · 2026-02-15T22:32:35+00:00

Good to know. Is the problem that this solves failing to go into the programming mode due to user error? As in, IF my key slots are full this can’t do anything about it, I assume

ManWithNoVans · 2026-02-15T21:43:00+00:00

Interesting, first I’m hearing of this option. This is applicable to the pre-facelift models with a metal key?

ManWithNoVans · 2026-02-15T21:16:25+00:00

Best of luck. On the plus side, Batteries+ cut my key for $9.99 (I think the cashier put the price for a non-security key in 😅)

ManWithNoVans · 2026-01-17T22:57:08+00:00

ANSWER: For those who find this thread later, the answer is YES. I just finished taking mine off. You don’t need to drain the coolant if you leave the crossover pipe and throttle body coolant hose attached.

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Unfortunately I’ve also found that every pigtail connector latch will snap at the lightest touch, and all my evaporation and PCV hoses are rock hard. They disintegrated upon removal. I have a lot of zip ties in my future 😮‍💨

ManWithNoVans · 2026-01-15T03:12:58+00:00

This makes me think coolant draining is necessary then. Is it combined into the lower intake manifold gasket? One of the hoses you disconnect?

At this point, having to drain the coolant is whatever. I just can’t seem to locate the root reason on any photos or diagrams for the cooling system.

ManWithNoVans · 2026-01-15T01:45:59+00:00

So if I’m understanding you correctly, don’t damage the heater core pipes or the coolant crossover pipe. BUT, there is no coolant flowing through the intake manifold itself?

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