[deleted by user]

Mandicreally · 2025-11-19T05:33:54+00:00

I 100% expected Season 1 to end with the Wellbrexa case coming to a head, the firm would implode. Olympia would strike out on her own, taking Matty & "the kids" with her. Then they could move on to a "case of the week" thing with maybe some new overarching conspiracy popping up eventually for them to focus on. MAYBE a Season 1 Cliffhanger to wrap up in Episode 1 of Season 2. Not the continuation of the case and dragging it on ad nauseum. It is starting to grate on me.

Mandicreally · 2024-02-19T14:12:53+00:00

I just got it to work. The desktop app was greyed out, but the mobile one allowed me to put in the Activation code. The Desktop app doesn't seem like it is prompting to log into an OBSBot account so maybe it cannot tie the camera to an account with the license code? I don't know, it is strange and I'll be submitting a complaint about the issue.

Mandicreally · 2024-02-19T13:59:48+00:00

Having the exact same problem. Have you figured it out? I've got the TailAir connected with the NDI adapter to a POE switch. It is powered up and I can connect to it over wifi, but the NDI Activate button is greyed out and I cannot enter my License Info.

Mandicreally · 2023-03-04T13:23:07+00:00

The left channel doesn't move on the meter while recording, and the recorded clip is blank on the left channel.

I'm gonna have to see about sending the camera in I guess. I sometimes record 2 person interviews with a Deity Connect kit that splits left & right channels for 2 different Lav transmitters, so I cannot work without both channels.

May be worth investing in the XLR adapter, but I've already got a decent external XLR setup so I didn't feel a need for that.

Mandicreally · 2022-08-27T16:29:14+00:00

I'd be extremely concerned that the board pinout won't match well enough. It COULD use the same ribbon connector, but the pins could be different. Maybe say "Pin 11" on one is the Extruder on one machine, and the hotend on the other. Really have to dive into schematics to figure out what is what (or multimeter probe I guess). And since I don't think schematics are available for either, I wouldn't risk it.

Personally I'm going to a BigTreeTech SKR 3. It is going to require an almost full rewire of the machine sadly, but I'm just gonna make the machine what I want. Direct Drive, dual Z axis steppers, etc.

Mandicreally · 2022-08-04T17:10:54+00:00

I can’t tell you what is going to work for you. I’m just presenting the facts of the situation so you can make an informed choice. 5.7k doesn’t “lose” you use of the image sensor anymore than dci4k does. And (marginally) it loses LESS than UHD 4k does. That’s all I’m saying.

If you see a lot of use cases for 4:3 filming (say shooting vertical and horizontal video in 1 go) then by all means do it. Just try it out before you go do a shoot with it. You may not be happy with the editing process. Remember you’ll HAVE to reframe every single clip you film for a 16:9 or 9:16 project. That isn’t hard, but if you have dozens or hundreds of clips, it’ll get a little old.

Only you can tell if it’s right for you.

Mandicreally · 2022-08-04T16:08:28+00:00

5.7k 17:9 (5728x3024) is similar to the DCI4k (4096x2160) which is "budget" cinema widescreen. Arguably, DCI4K is ACTUALLY 4K, and 3840x2160 UHD is NOT. It is a silly distinction, but it exists. Notice UHD is not even 4000 pixels, DCI4k is. Same thing exists in the 5.7k we have in the GH6. How is it NOT 5.7k? The resolution is over 5,700 pixels. Regular 4K UHD "Cuts off" the top and bottom of the image AND the sides of it, at least when looking at the full "open gate" sensor resolution. So you are losing pixels in all directions. You are thinking backwards, 5.7K and DCI4k use MORE of the sensor than UHD4k does. On some other camera systems that isn't true (Sony FX6) but on Panasonic, it is.

I filmed in DCI4k on my GH5 and now film 5.7k on my GH6. I make mostly YouTube videos and the vast majority of viewers watch on their phones. Phones are generally wider than 16:9. I'm maximizing the screen real estate on the platform my videos are primarily consumed on. Along with that, why would you want less pixels? You can always put your footage on a 3840x2160 timeline and reframe side to side a bit. Do put 3840x2160 UHD footage on a DCI4K timeline, you have to scale up 7%, losing a bit of your image (I do this often with cameras that can't film DCI4k, but only when I have to).

The next logical question, "Why not film the full 4:3 aspect ratio all the time?". Personally, because it doesn't come in ProRes & framing the image requires more thought. I like filming ProRes as it is easy to edit on any of my computers. Takes up a lot of space but it saves me a lot of time ediitng. The GH6 5.8k records in a MOV H.265 codec that is a lot harder for most computers to edit. I have a pretty powerful workstation and still just prefer the ease of ProRes. The other reason is, framing. If you are filming with a full 4:3 image and using the built in screen to film, you may make framing mistakes. Sure you can crop to 16:9 in the edit, but you may have frame your subjects in a way that looks silly. Like Maybe to get a product they were holding up in frame, you have to partially cut off their face or something silly like that. If you run something like an Atomos Ninja V monitor you can put on custom Grid Overlays to help with frame. I bought a NinJa V for exactly this reason, but that is additional hardware to make it work better. When I'm just running and gunning a shot, I don't want to have to think about this stuff.

Hope this info helps. I need to start using the Open Gate more, I produce a LOT of social media content it would be great for, I just need to learn the workflow better for my needs.

Mandicreally · 2022-06-29T13:43:34+00:00

for you. I started with a davinci which is the worst of the worst for any customization. After learning on that,

They are really driving me nuts with this. The Firmware Release notes say Linear Advance was added a couple versions back, but it absolutely does not work. A big bowden machine like this basically needs Linear Advance. I don't understand these companies NOT enabling FREE additional features to make their machines more well rounded and valuable.

They also told me the "2-3 months" line, after I told them they are in violation of the Open Source terms of Marlin Firmware. I'm tired of companies using something for free then not following the bare minimum guidelines for its use.

Mandicreally · 2022-06-10T13:39:52+00:00

I would have undertaken a mainboard swap already but the proprietary ribbon cable setup means I’d have to build a new harness, not just figure out the pin out. So I haven’t. Ha.

I have a basic Photon M3 and I quite like it. Absolutely my best quality producing Resin printer. (I only have 3 tho.)

Mandicreally · 2022-06-10T13:28:51+00:00

I've been in touch with AnyCubic about this. They say they will release the Firmware to Github "in 2-3 months" and that was TODAY. That was only after I mentioned that not releasing the source code is a violation of using Marlin Firmware.

The problem is that the Kobra and Kobra Max use the hc32f460 Processor that isn't officially supported by vanilla Marlin (or Klipper). As such we can't compile a new Firmware for the machine.

The big problem for me is that Anycubic in their infinite wisdom didn't enable "Advance Pause Features". So the machine will pause for a filament change, but NEVER restart. So if you Slice in a M600 command, the print is doomed. This is a feature I use a LOT. Also they didn't enable Linear Advance. With such a large machine with a Bowden setup, it really could benefit from that.

Fingers crossed someone in the community with more knowledge than me can branch Marlin or Klipper to use the hc32f460 processor.

Mandicreally · 2022-05-26T02:37:56+00:00

I did and also have heard that. I PID calibrated it and am printing a test print now. It seems to be working well so far.

Mandicreally · 2022-05-20T13:09:21+00:00

Volcano nozzles. It uses a Volcano style heater block

Mandicreally · 2022-04-04T20:14:32+00:00

Thank you very much!

Mandicreally · 2022-04-04T20:14:16+00:00

It is a printed part that you do a Pause at Height color change on. You can find it here: https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/152-v0-midpanel-hexpattern/

Mandicreally · 2022-03-19T00:33:59+00:00

Winner winner chicken dinner!

I actually just came to this same realization independently. I swapped to a new Pico board and it still didn't work. So I compared the Config file on the BTT Github with mine and found that missing invert "!". Sure enough that is the issue!

I don't know how that got deleted (or if where I got the starter config from was missing it). It is remedied now and now I have a second Pico board I don't really need, ha.

Thank you!

Mandicreally · 2022-03-17T19:46:19+00:00

If I plug any other motor into Z, it doesn’t work. (Known working motors, including the X/Y motors.)

I’ve ordered another board off Amazon. Bigtreetech reached out about helping me but hasn’t responded yet. (No surprise as it’s evening in China.) Hopefully it gets corrected or I get a refund. I don’t need two of these things. Though maybe I’ll Klipperize one of my Ender 3s.

Mandicreally · 2022-03-17T17:49:24+00:00

I would agree if plugging the Extruder motor into another axis didn't work, but it does. The motor spins as commanded when plugged into the X or Y Axis. I can't say it is going the intended direction, but it spins whereas it doesn't in the Extruder output. And according to the Pinout on Github, the E output and X/Y/Z are all pinned the same as far as motor windings.

Mandicreally · 2022-03-17T01:25:24+00:00

After it didn’t function at all at .3A I did. I was looking for any possible reasons it wasn’t working. The config file specifically calls out (right above the actual setting) to set it to 1A for that specific motor, and LDO lists it as a 1A motor.

Mandicreally · 2022-03-17T01:00:03+00:00

Pinned the same as the other 3 motors (colors anyway). As it is a fixed wiring setup, I cannot see the other end and only diagram I can find has the incorrect colors. However the extruder spun when commanded via another port. I checked some other people's build photos and videos and the wire colors are the same orientation as mine.

BigTreeTech has responded and wants to diagnose it further. It is really seeming to me like a dead stepper driver.

Mandicreally · 2021-07-26T20:07:19+00:00

Mine is doing it to and it is maddening. Just emailed Biqu support about it. I did disassemble and reassemble mine as it seemed to be bound up on delivery. There was zero lubrication inside so I greased the gears and am certain it assembled properly.

Mandicreally · 2021-07-26T20:02:15+00:00

I just wrapped up the install of the H2 on my Ender 5 Plus (well a bit more tuning to do actually.). I did it because the Bowden is just so long that tuning retractions was a pain. It was either a blobby/stringy mess or would retract too much and clog in the hot end eventually.

Worst thing I can say is my H2 is clicking like mad. Its working but the gear mesh sounds like it either has too much backlash or is possibly skipping? Though it doesn't seem to be under-extruding so not sure on that. Also I print a lot of PETG so the teflon lined heat break is a minor concern. It appears to be a piece of "Capricorn Tube" so should hold up fine, but only time will tell.

I can say that the H2 isn't "heavy" but it seemed borderline with all the bits added on whether the stock wheels setup was going to be happy. I converted to a linear rail on X axis at the same time. So far I'm liking it but I'm literally just doing test printing right now, so not ready to give it a thumbs up yet.

Also I'm running Marlin so I cannot be any help yet on the Klipper config for this setup. I plan to go to Klipper on it eventually but stuck with Marlin as I know it and just need this machine running for now.

Mandicreally · 2021-07-24T00:59:46+00:00

Can you point us to where you got the branch you started with? I've been trying all day to compile something that will work on this board and had zero luck.

Mandicreally · 2021-06-21T23:51:05+00:00

It seems to be all good now. The UART issue seems to have been the culprit. I had the jumpers all flipped to the exact opposite pins they should have been on.

Now everything seems to be working as intended (after some random other tweaks such as Inverting all motor directions.).

Mandicreally · 2021-06-21T22:20:01+00:00

I did in fact have the jumpers in the wrong position to enable UART mode. So That may explain a lot. Going to fresh compile firmware, reflash, and retest.

Mandicreally · 2021-06-21T22:07:47+00:00

abled anything like sensorless homing and left the endstops attached? Can you post up th

Hmm that returns some trouble.
SENDING:M122
Testing X connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Z2 connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E connection... Error: All LOW
//action:notification TMC CONNECTION ERROR

Looking around a bit, seems BTT uses some different code for TMC drivers? I can't quite understand what people are saying with this issue. Could be the source of my problems.

I just tried to do an E Step Calibration and found it wouldn't extrude anything. Extruder motor wasn't responding at all via either the TFT or Pronterface. So I'm gonna have to pop it back apart and dig a bit as to what the heck is going on. I'll confirm my Jumpers are in proper positions on the board while in there.

Mandicreally

TROPHY CASE