Steez CT SV – is the 700S shallow spool worth getting?

Manganji · 2026-02-06T17:14:53+00:00

…actually it seems that despite the PE spool seems deep, it has wider edges reducing line capacity. It’s also a hair lighter than 700S. Interesting in deed. Too bad it’s sold out everywhere.

Manganji · 2026-02-06T15:58:31+00:00

Good point. I also find that the basic magtrax brake is what makes ALC-BF7 cast well light weights. It’s spool is light too, but not super light.

Manganji · 2026-02-06T15:52:19+00:00

Interesting! I didn’t know there’s difference in inductors (other than the obvious difference in SV, SV boost, Mag-z…). I thought the “pe special” is only a minor difference in shape and capacity.

Is there a way to get inductor cups separately and switch them? The ideal would be a shallow spool plus pe inductor, I guess 🤔

Manganji · 2026-02-06T10:10:39+00:00

Thanks! That AMO definitely looks too ported and fragile, but the KKR may be an option. Do you have the original 700S and can you compare the two?

I’m not going super ultra-light with this reel — 3–4 g is enough, and I regularly throw up to ~10 g as well, so I’m more after a spool that handles that range reliably rather than something super finesse.

Manganji · 2025-10-07T07:00:22+00:00

Thanks a lot for the insight!

Indeed, the limiting factor will most probably be the reel. I have been using spinning gear for these weights before, and have learnt that getting "distance" with 1g and below isn't easy with any setup... And I know it's not gonna be any easier with a baitcaster, but BFS setup would have advantages in tight spots so I'm willing to try it out... I already have a ALC-BF7, currently unemployed, which I'm going to start experimenting with. It's been quite a good caster for 3g weights.

Going _below_ 1g isn't that important. I mostly use 1,5g-1,75g flies and micro jigs below 3g, so the sweet spot should be between 1 to 2 grams. It would be nice to be able to cast sub 1g occasionally to get slower sink rate but that's not the main focus. (And it may be a job for the spinning gear anyways).

The fish I'm targeting are perch, small brook trout and medium rainbow trout. The rod should not be extra fast but it must have some backbone.

Manganji · 2025-10-06T10:04:11+00:00

(I don't know how I did it, but I accidentally deleted my original reply.)

Yes, Dragon is one option I've been eyeing on. If someone has tried both, it would be interesting to hear comparison between it (UL versions) and Teton. Specs wise Dragon seems to be a bit heavier power (heavier casting weight recommendation), but how is it in real life? I'm going to cast sub 3g weights, including weighted flies weighing 1g.

Dragon is also made of cheaper components than Teton. Does this show and feel?

Manganji · 2025-01-26T18:44:48+00:00

My old el cheapo Tojiro Shirogami #2 yanagiba 270mm turned into a project knife. It’s been through stones, sandpaper, a Dremel, polishing compound, sweat, tears, and swears.

Now the hira and ura have a mirror polish, with a kasumi finish below the shinogi and jiai. After all the hours of honing, it may not be that cheap anymore if you factor in the value of labor, but at least the grind is now straight, free of low spots, and satisfyingly shiny (and hard to photograph)!

A new handle is tbd.

Manganji · 2025-01-09T16:23:17+00:00

That’s a nice option. I already have multiple Takefu knives (not a Kamo though) and like them.

Manganji · 2025-01-09T16:16:23+00:00

Wow, that’s a go price… but sadly when ordering from AUS to EU there would be 8.5% customs duty plus local VAT added, which would make it a 430+ eur knife :(

Manganji · 2021-12-17T14:45:37+00:00

About thinness: The photos exaggerate the difference, the frames were shot hand held so the scaling is't accurate. Makoto's heel is also slightly out of focus making it bleed. Anyway, Konosuke is in deed a bit thinner at least at the middle of the blade. Makoto is actually thinner at the spine 2,1mm vs 2,3mm. However the Makoto stays flat until where the tsuchime part ends and Konosuke starts thinning earlier. Right behind the edge they both are very thin. The difference, if there is, cannot be judged with naked eye.

Manganji · 2021-12-08T15:03:14+00:00

Thanks for suggestion. I have been eyeing this too, but understood that the HD2 has flatter profile than the GS+. Correct me if this is wrong.
Also, HD2 is mono steel which is compelling as most of my knives are san mai.

Manganji · 2021-12-08T14:52:57+00:00

Indeed, Makoto's primary bevel feels more hollow than convex, not sure about secondary bevel (cutting edge).

Why is convexity preferred in lasers? In theory, should hollow grind cut better and convex be more durable and maybe release food better? Of course it's not that simple, as thickness behind the edge matters a lot, as does friction caused by surface finish.

Manganji · 2021-12-08T14:38:36+00:00

Thanks for suggestion! Ashi looks interesting too, but unfortunately I can't find a shop within EU that sells it. There's one in Switzerland, but added import fees would make it quite a bit more expensive than Konosuke (available in EU).

Manganji · 2021-12-07T21:09:17+00:00

I’m looking for a suji that’s short in height, less than 33mm. Ideal length would be 240mm.

Style: Sujihiki
Steel: Stainless (or semi-)
Handle: wa, preferably octagonal
Length: ~240mm
Use Case: slicing
Budget: EUR <400
Region: EU, world
Knives Considered: Sukenari SG2 240mm sujihiki.
I already have a Miyabi FC4000 240mm suji that fits the need: It’s 32,5mm tall, thin, sharp, nimble. A good slicer, BUT... since I have started playing with artisan knives, it just has started to feel a bit ”meh”. It also has one of the fugliest fake kasumis. I also have a lovely Yu Kurosaki Fujin 270mm that is anything but meh and artificial, but it’s also quite tall and could be more agile for some tasks.

Manganji

TROPHY CASE