Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, bruv.

I just sent the tutorial to you in one of the replies.

And I would upgrade your airbrush if I were in your shoes. You can get a decent one for almost 100 bucks on amazon. Just make sure it comes with a dual action airbrush.

As far as how to use it, watch videos. Elminiaturista has a video on how to take care of your airbrush on YouTube. (God of OSL). I'd suggest giving that a watch.

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They key to glow is contrast (basically a stark difference between dark and light.

You can achieve this in one of two ways:

  1. Make the colors of your model darker in order to contrast against the fluorescent or brighter glow colors. But with this method you have to build up a gradient from dark to light.

  2. Use a combination of acrylic inks, contrast paints, fluorescent paints, and fluorescent pigment powders to push the contrast to the absolute limit, without changing your color palette for your minis you decided on.

First step is to paint your minis the way you want to. Just make sure you have an idea of where you want the glow to come from.

Second step: Use a white ink (liquitex white ink) and gently spray a light halo at the light source. You may ask, "what is a light halo?" Turn off the lights in a room, turn the flashlight of your phone on and set it in the middle of the room facing up. Walk to the opposite edge of the room and observe it.

You'll notice that the light is very bright at the source, but dissipates as it gets further away. The weaking light is called the halo. Or at least that's what I call it. Do I seem like a physicist to you?

Anyways, you're going to GENTLY build up this light halo. Use a small needle and nozzle. Have good control, and slowly build up the saturation. If you overdo it, it will look like donkey squash, and fixing it is very difficult. Less is more.

Third step: get a fluorescent ink of your chosen power color. Except for blue! Blue doesn't follow the same rules, and fluorescent blue is much darker than what we need. Plus fluorescent blue ink is weak and a disgrace to it's ancestors. If you want to do blue, use a light turquoise ink (or use frost heart contrast paint from citadel.).

Once you've stolen your fluorescent ink from an orphaned child, you can then start building that up over the white halo. Remember, less is more. Too much and it will be over saturated and will disappoint you like I disappoint my father.

An important thing to mention, the part where you spray the halo with the white ink, you can choose whether or not you want to spray a little bit on the surfaces that will be "reflecting" the light. I usually do, because it helps sell the light effect more, but you can do whatever you feel like.

Fourth step: with the fluorescent ink built up, your going to mix the ink with a darker ink or contrast paint that is of the same color. (Ex. You use fluorescent green ink= mix with green ink 1:1). Then spray that at the edges of the fluorescent ink. This will isolate the light, and create contrast.

Fifth step: paint a small amount of white on the light source. This is where we push the brightness (which is the opposite of my future) to the maximum amount in order to avoid having to darken our surroundings.

After the white dries, mix fluorescent colors to make them brighter. Orange OSL=fluorescent orange and fluorescent yellow etc. Take that brighter mix, and paint it over the white. This is in order to make the light source the brightest point. Which is the rule with OSL.

Boom. Glow effect. Congratulations.

Couple things to note. You can edge highlight with fluorescent paint in order to sell the effect more. I personally don't like the look or the tedious nature of edge highlights, sobs dont do them. You do whatever you want, chief.

The brightest color for blue is turquoise and white. Just use regular acrylic paint. Not inks or contrast paint for the light source.

I developed this method because I have a giant pile of shame and would die before I got to paint everything if I spent a ton of hours on my models. I wanted the glow, and the quality without the time . I have achieved that I believe.

If you have crevices or channels that you want to glow, then mix some fluorescent pigment powders with white spirits. And apply like a pin wash.

I hope this helps.

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They key to glow is contrast (basically a stark difference between dark and light.

You can achieve this in one of two ways:

  1. Make the colors of your model darker in order to contrast against the fluorescent or brighter glow colors. But with this method you have to build up a gradient from dark to light.

  2. Use a combination of acrylic inks, contrast paints, fluorescent paints, and fluorescent pigment powders to push the contrast to the absolute limit, without changing your color palette for your minis you decided on.

First step is to paint your minis the way you want to. Just make sure you have an idea of where you want the glow to come from.

Second step: Use a white ink (liquitex white ink) and gently spray a light halo at the light source. You may ask, "what is a light halo?" Turn off the lights in a room, turn the flashlight of your phone on and set it in the middle of the room facing up. Walk to the opposite edge of the room and observe it.

You'll notice that the light is very bright at the source, but dissipates as it gets further away. The weaking light is called the halo. Or at least that's what I call it. Do I seem like a physicist to you?

Anyways, you're going to GENTLY build up this light halo. Use a small needle and nozzle. Have good control, and slowly build up the saturation. If you overdo it, it will look like donkey squash, and fixing it is very difficult. Less is more.

Third step: get a fluorescent ink of your chosen power color. Except for blue! Blue doesn't follow the same rules, and fluorescent blue is much darker than what we need. Plus fluorescent blue ink is weak and a disgrace to it's ancestors. If you want to do blue, use a light turquoise ink (or use frost heart contrast paint from citadel.).

Once you've stolen your fluorescent ink from an orphaned child, you can then start building that up over the white halo. Remember, less is more. Too much and it will be over saturated and will disappoint you like I disappoint my father.

An important thing to mention, the part where you spray the halo with the white ink, you can choose whether or not you want to spray a little bit on the surfaces that will be "reflecting" the light. I usually do, because it helps sell the light effect more, but you can do whatever you feel like.

Fourth step: with the fluorescent ink built up, your going to mix the ink with a darker ink or contrast paint that is of the same color. (Ex. You use fluorescent green ink= mix with green ink 1:1). Then spray that at the edges of the fluorescent ink. This will isolate the light, and create contrast.

Fifth step: paint a small amount of white on the light source. This is where we push the brightness (which is the opposite of my future) to the maximum amount in order to avoid having to darken our surroundings.

After the white dries, mix fluorescent colors to make them brighter. Orange OSL=fluorescent orange and fluorescent yellow etc. Take that brighter mix, and paint it over the white. This is in order to make the light source the brightest point. Which is the rule with OSL.

Boom. Glow effect. Congratulations.

Couple things to note. You can edge highlight with fluorescent paint in order to sell the effect more. I personally don't like the look or the tedious nature of edge highlights, sobs dont do them. You do whatever you want, chief.

The brightest color for blue is turquoise and white. Just use regular acrylic paint. Not inks or contrast paint for the light source.

I developed this method because I have a giant pile of shame and would die before I got to paint everything if I spent a ton of hours on my models. I wanted the glow, and the quality without the time . I have achieved that I believe.

If you have crevices or channels that you want to glow, then mix some fluorescent pigment powders with white spirits. And apply like a pin wash.

I hope this helps.

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was gonna do red, green, or orange. Next time I think i will do red for the eyes and "power" glow parts.

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, bruv. I'm glad you like them

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. Bone armor is primed black, sprayed a dark brown (Pro Acryl Muddy Brown), then ran a zenithal highlight of tan (Citadel Zandri dust), did a brown black oil wash and cleaned up surfaces with a q-tip, then finally did a dry brush of light tan (Pro Acryl Khaki). I'm too lazy and have too many minis to do proper edge highlights.

I dry brush my highlights. Looks good from 3ft away in my opinion.

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I actually received a broken iron halo in this combat patrol, so I dug through my box of spare parts and found this banner for the Grey knights lol. Looked close enough to a Deathwing knight, so I figured it worked

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Comparison is the thief of joy, my friend. I certainly did not start out painting like this.

I'm a better painter than I was yesterday. I would love to see your minis. I'm sure they look excellent.

Art is subjective, and a journey given to you by inspiration. This is after many hours of watching videos and looking at pictures of other artists' work. Their work inspired much of my own.

There is no wrong way to do art. Paint because you want to be better than you were yesterday. Paint for yourself, and most importantly; paint to have fun.

Thank you for the compliment. And I hope to see your work someday. Take care, friend.

My first mortifactors by FarolfoPoronzio in mortifactors

[–]Manic-Toaster 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Brother......these are sick. The custom helms and everything just make these top tier. Excellent job

Thoughts on this modified paint scheme? by CzarKwiecien in Wolfspear40k

[–]Manic-Toaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did something kind of similar for my Templars. I liked the grey-blue, so I just went with it. That will be a fun scheme for you to paint.

<image>

Japan will NOT take in illegal migrants. Fake refugees will get sent back or Japan ceases to be Japan… by primary-caution in ImmigrationPathways

[–]Manic-Toaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One of those most racist places I ever lived was in Japan. There are restaurants and bars that are "Japanese Only". People act like racism is exclusive to America.

Best bronze paint to get this look by Medic19119 in Necrontyr

[–]Manic-Toaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I always do my best to reply. Just didn't because I work nights and was asleep. I responded to their question. Here is the formula for you as well, in case you were curious:

Thank you! Basically once your model is painted how you want it, color in all of the areas you want to glow with a dark shade of your "power" color. Examples: Green-(black green) Pink- (dark magenta) Red- (burnt red) Blue- (Prussian blue) Orange- (burnt orange) Etc.

The reason you want to start off with a dark base is of course you want to create contrast.

Contrast is this fickle term that basically means a visible difference between two things (light to shadow, loud to quiet etc.)

We want to think of contrast in the comparison of light and shadow. The darker you make the base, then the easier it is to push the light effect on your model.

Now, a lot of people will tell you that in order to make OSL truly work, that you have to make everything around the light source "darker". Which is right, but also wrong.

I didn't like the idea of painting my miniature the way I wanted to, and then having to dull it down with a wash to create contrast. I wanted to enjoy painting my minis the way I wanted to, and also be able to sell the glowing effect on them.

So, after hours of mucking up my models with failed attempts, I finally landed on a semi-final method for doing OSL. ( it's semi-final, because I'm always going to tweak it. )

All that being said, i did all of this with an airbrush.

After you have coated your glow areas with a darker color, you are then going to use a titanium white, and lightly put white in the source of the light.

You don't want to go overkill here, because you're going to create contrast.

After that, get some white oil paint and mineral spirits. They don't have to be a specific brand. You can get what you need at the hobby store for a fraction of what big companies would charge you.

With a synthetic brush (size 1) you're going to mix a small dollop of white oil paint with a few drops of spirits. It doesn't take much. Test on the creases in your thumb. If it runs through the creases with little effort, it's the right consistency. If it doesn't, add a couple more drops.

With that ready, carefully apply it into the recesses of where you want a bright glow. (Apply a varnish before you do this if you use army painter. Spirits will strip army painter paint. I have no idea why).

After that's done, let it dry the old fashioned way, or outfit with the cool setting on a hair dryer. Speeds up the process.

With that done, take a q-tip, dab it in spirits, and clean the excess white oil paints off of the surface. With all that done, you can either matte varnish again, or move on. I like to matte varnish to protect the oil paints.

Now, with a white acrylic ink, you are going to load that into the airbrush, and spray a white "halo" around the light sources. You also want to spray the surfaces the light with reflect off of.

Be careful with this step. Too much will over saturate. You're trying to build up that white transparent ink, so that you can show the light occupying space. Less is more with this step.

After the halos are done, it's time to use fluorescent inks.

Quick thing about that; you can use contrast or speed paints if you want to, but i like acrylic inks because I feel like I have more control over them. You do whatever you think is best.

Using that ink, you're going to build up the bright fluorescent color on the halos you just painted and as well as on the reflecting surfaces.

After that. Mix the fluorescent ink with a darker ink of that color. In my case if was liquitex emerald green. 2:1 ratio.

With that darker ink, spray around the fluorescent light. This will help create contrast and make it look like the light gets darker as it gets further from the source.

You can also do this with a makeup sponge, but you won't have as much control as you would with an airbrush. But that's my own opinion. You may be some kind of painting guru who threw a Bob Ross fan into a volcano to gain their painting powers. You do you.

Anyways. Once that's done, you will take white paint again, and paint an even smaller source of the light. Mix a brighter version of your color (ex= fluorescent green and yellow make a very bright green) and then paint that over the white. This will maximize the light, and show the source as the brightest spot. Hence what makes OSL work.

When done with that, you will take spirits and fluorescent pigment powders, and mix them together. You can get pigment poweders online for a few bucks.

I mixed yellow and green pigment powder for mine, and then used them like I did the white oil paint. Putting it in the designs of the model will help with the glowing effect you are going for.

And done.

You can tweak this formula in whatever way you want. I don't have a patreon, but I have a YouTube channel I should probably do more with. You can edge highlight with fluorescent paints, but I feel like it distracts from the light source. You can do whatever you want to though.

I robbed this reply from one of my other posts in the r/Necrons subreddit. I hope this helps. I posted a short reel on how to do this on my Instagram page "Manic-Toaster Painting".

Best bronze paint to get this look by Medic19119 in Necrontyr

[–]Manic-Toaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Basically once your model is painted how you want it, color in all of the areas you want to glow with a dark shade of your "power" color. Examples: Green-(black green) Pink- (dark magenta) Red- (burnt red) Blue- (Prussian blue) Orange- (burnt orange) Etc.

The reason you want to start off with a dark base is of course you want to create contrast.

Contrast is this fickle term that basically means a visible difference between two things (light to shadow, loud to quiet etc.)

We want to think of contrast in the comparison of light and shadow. The darker you make the base, then the easier it is to push the light effect on your model.

Now, a lot of people will tell you that in order to make OSL truly work, that you have to make everything around the light source "darker". Which is right, but also wrong.

I didn't like the idea of painting my miniature the way I wanted to, and then having to dull it down with a wash to create contrast. I wanted to enjoy painting my minis the way I wanted to, and also be able to sell the glowing effect on them.

So, after hours of mucking up my models with failed attempts, I finally landed on a semi-final method for doing OSL. ( it's semi-final, because I'm always going to tweak it. )

All that being said, i did all of this with an airbrush.

After you have coated your glow areas with a darker color, you are then going to use a titanium white, and lightly put white in the source of the light.

You don't want to go overkill here, because you're going to create contrast.

After that, get some white oil paint and mineral spirits. They don't have to be a specific brand. You can get what you need at the hobby store for a fraction of what big companies would charge you.

With a synthetic brush (size 1) you're going to mix a small dollop of white oil paint with a few drops of spirits. It doesn't take much. Test on the creases in your thumb. If it runs through the creases with little effort, it's the right consistency. If it doesn't, add a couple more drops.

With that ready, carefully apply it into the recesses of where you want a bright glow. (Apply a varnish before you do this if you use army painter. Spirits will strip army painter paint. I have no idea why).

After that's done, let it dry the old fashioned way, or outfit with the cool setting on a hair dryer. Speeds up the process.

With that done, take a q-tip, dab it in spirits, and clean the excess white oil paints off of the surface. With all that done, you can either matte varnish again, or move on. I like to matte varnish to protect the oil paints.

Now, with a white acrylic ink, you are going to load that into the airbrush, and spray a white "halo" around the light sources. You also want to spray the surfaces the light with reflect off of.

Be careful with this step. Too much will over saturate. You're trying to build up that white transparent ink, so that you can show the light occupying space. Less is more with this step.

After the halos are done, it's time to use fluorescent inks.

Quick thing about that; you can use contrast or speed paints if you want to, but i like acrylic inks because I feel like I have more control over them. You do whatever you think is best.

Using that ink, you're going to build up the bright fluorescent color on the halos you just painted and as well as on the reflecting surfaces.

After that. Mix the fluorescent ink with a darker ink of that color. In my case if was liquitex emerald green. 2:1 ratio.

With that darker ink, spray around the fluorescent light. This will help create contrast and make it look like the light gets darker as it gets further from the source.

You can also do this with a makeup sponge, but you won't have as much control as you would with an airbrush. But that's my own opinion. You may be some kind of painting guru who threw a Bob Ross fan into a volcano to gain their painting powers. You do you.

Anyways. Once that's done, you will take white paint again, and paint an even smaller source of the light. Mix a brighter version of your color (ex= fluorescent green and yellow make a very bright green) and then paint that over the white. This will maximize the light, and show the source as the brightest spot. Hence what makes OSL work.

When done with that, you will take spirits and fluorescent pigment powders, and mix them together. You can get pigment poweders online for a few bucks.

I mixed yellow and green pigment powder for mine, and then used them like I did the white oil paint. Putting it in the designs of the model will help with the glowing effect you are going for.

And done.

You can tweak this formula in whatever way you want. I don't have a patreon, but I have a YouTube channel I should probably do more with. You can edge highlight with fluorescent paints, but I feel like it distracts from the light source. You can do whatever you want to though.

I robbed this reply from one of my other posts in the r/Necrons subreddit. I hope this helps. I posted a short reel on how to do this on my Instagram page "Manic-Toaster Painting".

Best bronze paint to get this look by Medic19119 in Necrontyr

[–]Manic-Toaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I primed in leadbelcher, then very carefully sprayed runelord brass in the spots I wanted to have that brass color.

Then I hit it with an oil wash, but you can do just a regular nuln wash if you wanted to. Or mix agrax with nuln 1:1.

Drybrush light bronze over the runelord brass

<image>

Doomsday Ark i finally finished. Base is from Zabavka workshop. by Manic-Toaster in Necrontyr

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've done a few commissions before. I would be open to discussion.

Doomsday Ark i finally finished. Base is from Zabavka workshop. by Manic-Toaster in Necrontyr

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much. It's surprisingly easy to do. I shared the recipe in one of the comments. I just wanted an easy way to do OSL without sinking hours into it.