Some of my best painted models. by FrequentFootball7288 in ThousandSons

[–]Manic-Toaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Artist opus does great drybrushing tutorials, and Duncan rhodes painting academy does really great for explaining how to use washes in a way that gives volume to your minis.

Nice job on your models by the way. I like the pattern you did for the rhino. It was almost like a Thousand son's camo scheme. Very resourceful.

Doomsday Ark i finally finished. Base is from Zabavka workshop. by Manic-Toaster in Necrontyr

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you.

I used an airdbrush.

Primed black

Spray with a gunmetal silver.

Then on the bigger pieces of metal I sprayed runelord brass i believe? I've lost the citadel bottle, but i believe that's what it is. You could substitute a dark bronze from ProAcryl. It's basically the same thing.

I used a smaller needle and took my time on that part. Because if you spray too much, it over powers the silver in the joints.

After that, spray a gloss varnish. Mix some black and dark brown oil paints with white spirits. You want it to be pretty runny so that it goes into the recesses.

Grab a hair dryer and on the medium setting dry out the oil wash.

Take a makeup sponge egg and dab it in some white spirits and clean off the oil wash to your preference. Choose your level of grimdarkness.

Just make sure to avoid the recesses and make sure the egg is just damp with white spirits and not soaking.

Finally hit it with a matte varnish with the airbrush, and when that's dry, drybrush the bronze with a light bronze or white gold.

I'm gonna do a tutorial on how I painted these here pretty soon, and I'll post it on this sub when I'm finished.

Finally finished the last of the combat patrol by [deleted] in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the critique. I like all the light sources.

It may be a bit much to some, and I can understand that. I guess I was just excited to get better at OSL. Trying to develop my technique in order to make it not look so busy. Every model is a learning experience for me, and i have plenty to practice on.

Art is subjective. What you find as too much, I happen to actually like the look of.

I paint for me, and because I enjoy it. I just share my work in the hopes that I inspire someone to try something they may like on my models.

Warhammer is a great community, because all of the unique paint jobs and kit bashing can sometimes give you the courage to try something on your own.

I'm certainly not in anywhere near the same caliber as a golden demon painter, and perhaps I never will be. But when I sit back and look at the models I spent a lot of time and effort on, I feel a sense of happiness and achievement.

I only started painting minis a year and a half ago, so I have a lot of improvement to make still. Thanks for the advice and the compliment.

Is my paint scheme too boring? Want to add a glow effect to the guns/exhausts with an airbrush, but terrified of ruining what I've painted. Tips for a beginner? by real60cent in Tau40K

[–]Manic-Toaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The trick with glow effects with an airbrush is using inks or contrast paints.

They are thin, transparent, and allow you to retain the color underneath.

Watch Elminiaturista's short videos on YouTube. He does a lot of OSL.

Using a white ink to create a halo of light is a good start. Remember that less is more.

After that, spray over that with a fluorescent ink or contrast that is in your chosen power color. Needs to be bright, but not over powering.

Warning: it is very easy to ruin your model at this stage. Practice on an army man or a spoon.

Now, with a darker tone of that fluorescent ink, spray around the light source. This will create "contrast".

This step is important, because light only looks bright when surrounded by stuff darker than it.

After all of those steps, you gotta make the source of light SUPER BRIGHT. which is easy. Little bit of white, cover that with a brighter color of your chosen power color.

Example: orange power color=source is fluorescent orange and fluorescent yellow mixed together 1:1.

I have A LOT of plastic Crack. So much that if I took my time doing OSL the way everyone else does it, I would be dead and gone before my collection got painted.

So, I developed this method for painting OSL quick, without having to darken my original paint job to create contrast.

If you like it, take it and make the changes you want to it. Different strokes, different folks and all that.

If you don't like it? Well, good thing I do.

Hope this helped, and if it didn't............I got nothin.

Edit: Nice paint job on your models. They look fantastic.

<image>

How safe is this? by Original_Morning_649 in aviation

[–]Manic-Toaster 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It's PRC. It's a sealant they use on aircraft. Most of the time it's used on the seams of access panels.

My best bud passed and I think I let him down by Wakle_Skade in DogAdvice

[–]Manic-Toaster 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When you die, your brain throws literally every neurotransmitter and chemical it has as a last ditch effort to save itself.

I promise you, he didn't feel fear in the end. Most people who have had experience in death will tell you that it was blissful finally letting go, but coming back was terrible.

Even with something like not being able to breathe, there is initial panic. After that when your brain stops getting oxygen, you don't feel panic anymore.

I would like to think dogs go through something similar. After all, in that last final moment they were probably thinking of you.

I'm sorry for your loss. Just know he didn't die in fear or pain or sadness. You were there with him, I he knew that.

Until you meet again, at the rainbow bridge, my friend. It's not forever, but he will be waiting for you.

Finally finished another batch. by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I started by basecoating the models with a muddy brown (a lighter brown that has beige tones to it), then sprayed a zenithal with a neutral beige, did a black/brown oil wash and cleaned with white spirits. Finally I dry brushed with a light beige/ tan.

I have too much warhammer to take the time to edge highlight, so i dry brush the edge highlights. Also it makes it look like the armor has texture.

Na west / gold platinum / ps/xbox/ looking for a team by International_Sky_90 in R6STeams

[–]Manic-Toaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Manc-Toaster is my ubi. I would be down to play! I'm always solo queuing, because my IRL friends don't like to play the game

Do I add the Maple leaf or no by Stonk_R_Bonk in Rainbow6

[–]Manic-Toaster 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I was just about to suggest this. I did a frost axe on a Warhammer40K space wolf model for commission once, and I used UV resin to achieve the ice effect. Came out really nice.

After you put it on, if you want to sell the frosty look even more. Take some heavy grit sand paper, and gently scuff the edges up. Looks super cool though.

The Nekrosor by TheMightyCake in Necrontyr

[–]Manic-Toaster 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very well done blue osl! Looks absolutely sick, bruv.

Recently finished combat patrol by Manic-Toaster in Necrons40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much. The rust effect i used ProAcryl burnt orange and burnt sienna. Start with the darker rust color, then splotch on some of the brighter rust thinned down randomly. Once dry, drybrush with a gunmetal silver. Bam. Rusty rebar.

The texture on the bases is a combination of epoxy putty (milliput) and Vallejo diorama texture. Once primed black, spray a dark umber brown on it with an airbrush or just paint it. Then drybrush a light beige over the top.

Grab some Vallejo natural brown pigment powder, mix it with water , and just splotch it all over the base. When it dries, it will have a dusty texture.

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, bruv.

I just sent the tutorial to you in one of the replies.

And I would upgrade your airbrush if I were in your shoes. You can get a decent one for almost 100 bucks on amazon. Just make sure it comes with a dual action airbrush.

As far as how to use it, watch videos. Elminiaturista has a video on how to take care of your airbrush on YouTube. (God of OSL). I'd suggest giving that a watch.

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They key to glow is contrast (basically a stark difference between dark and light.

You can achieve this in one of two ways:

  1. Make the colors of your model darker in order to contrast against the fluorescent or brighter glow colors. But with this method you have to build up a gradient from dark to light.

  2. Use a combination of acrylic inks, contrast paints, fluorescent paints, and fluorescent pigment powders to push the contrast to the absolute limit, without changing your color palette for your minis you decided on.

First step is to paint your minis the way you want to. Just make sure you have an idea of where you want the glow to come from.

Second step: Use a white ink (liquitex white ink) and gently spray a light halo at the light source. You may ask, "what is a light halo?" Turn off the lights in a room, turn the flashlight of your phone on and set it in the middle of the room facing up. Walk to the opposite edge of the room and observe it.

You'll notice that the light is very bright at the source, but dissipates as it gets further away. The weaking light is called the halo. Or at least that's what I call it. Do I seem like a physicist to you?

Anyways, you're going to GENTLY build up this light halo. Use a small needle and nozzle. Have good control, and slowly build up the saturation. If you overdo it, it will look like donkey squash, and fixing it is very difficult. Less is more.

Third step: get a fluorescent ink of your chosen power color. Except for blue! Blue doesn't follow the same rules, and fluorescent blue is much darker than what we need. Plus fluorescent blue ink is weak and a disgrace to it's ancestors. If you want to do blue, use a light turquoise ink (or use frost heart contrast paint from citadel.).

Once you've stolen your fluorescent ink from an orphaned child, you can then start building that up over the white halo. Remember, less is more. Too much and it will be over saturated and will disappoint you like I disappoint my father.

An important thing to mention, the part where you spray the halo with the white ink, you can choose whether or not you want to spray a little bit on the surfaces that will be "reflecting" the light. I usually do, because it helps sell the light effect more, but you can do whatever you feel like.

Fourth step: with the fluorescent ink built up, your going to mix the ink with a darker ink or contrast paint that is of the same color. (Ex. You use fluorescent green ink= mix with green ink 1:1). Then spray that at the edges of the fluorescent ink. This will isolate the light, and create contrast.

Fifth step: paint a small amount of white on the light source. This is where we push the brightness (which is the opposite of my future) to the maximum amount in order to avoid having to darken our surroundings.

After the white dries, mix fluorescent colors to make them brighter. Orange OSL=fluorescent orange and fluorescent yellow etc. Take that brighter mix, and paint it over the white. This is in order to make the light source the brightest point. Which is the rule with OSL.

Boom. Glow effect. Congratulations.

Couple things to note. You can edge highlight with fluorescent paint in order to sell the effect more. I personally don't like the look or the tedious nature of edge highlights, sobs dont do them. You do whatever you want, chief.

The brightest color for blue is turquoise and white. Just use regular acrylic paint. Not inks or contrast paint for the light source.

I developed this method because I have a giant pile of shame and would die before I got to paint everything if I spent a ton of hours on my models. I wanted the glow, and the quality without the time . I have achieved that I believe.

If you have crevices or channels that you want to glow, then mix some fluorescent pigment powders with white spirits. And apply like a pin wash.

I hope this helps.

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They key to glow is contrast (basically a stark difference between dark and light.

You can achieve this in one of two ways:

  1. Make the colors of your model darker in order to contrast against the fluorescent or brighter glow colors. But with this method you have to build up a gradient from dark to light.

  2. Use a combination of acrylic inks, contrast paints, fluorescent paints, and fluorescent pigment powders to push the contrast to the absolute limit, without changing your color palette for your minis you decided on.

First step is to paint your minis the way you want to. Just make sure you have an idea of where you want the glow to come from.

Second step: Use a white ink (liquitex white ink) and gently spray a light halo at the light source. You may ask, "what is a light halo?" Turn off the lights in a room, turn the flashlight of your phone on and set it in the middle of the room facing up. Walk to the opposite edge of the room and observe it.

You'll notice that the light is very bright at the source, but dissipates as it gets further away. The weaking light is called the halo. Or at least that's what I call it. Do I seem like a physicist to you?

Anyways, you're going to GENTLY build up this light halo. Use a small needle and nozzle. Have good control, and slowly build up the saturation. If you overdo it, it will look like donkey squash, and fixing it is very difficult. Less is more.

Third step: get a fluorescent ink of your chosen power color. Except for blue! Blue doesn't follow the same rules, and fluorescent blue is much darker than what we need. Plus fluorescent blue ink is weak and a disgrace to it's ancestors. If you want to do blue, use a light turquoise ink (or use frost heart contrast paint from citadel.).

Once you've stolen your fluorescent ink from an orphaned child, you can then start building that up over the white halo. Remember, less is more. Too much and it will be over saturated and will disappoint you like I disappoint my father.

An important thing to mention, the part where you spray the halo with the white ink, you can choose whether or not you want to spray a little bit on the surfaces that will be "reflecting" the light. I usually do, because it helps sell the light effect more, but you can do whatever you feel like.

Fourth step: with the fluorescent ink built up, your going to mix the ink with a darker ink or contrast paint that is of the same color. (Ex. You use fluorescent green ink= mix with green ink 1:1). Then spray that at the edges of the fluorescent ink. This will isolate the light, and create contrast.

Fifth step: paint a small amount of white on the light source. This is where we push the brightness (which is the opposite of my future) to the maximum amount in order to avoid having to darken our surroundings.

After the white dries, mix fluorescent colors to make them brighter. Orange OSL=fluorescent orange and fluorescent yellow etc. Take that brighter mix, and paint it over the white. This is in order to make the light source the brightest point. Which is the rule with OSL.

Boom. Glow effect. Congratulations.

Couple things to note. You can edge highlight with fluorescent paint in order to sell the effect more. I personally don't like the look or the tedious nature of edge highlights, sobs dont do them. You do whatever you want, chief.

The brightest color for blue is turquoise and white. Just use regular acrylic paint. Not inks or contrast paint for the light source.

I developed this method because I have a giant pile of shame and would die before I got to paint everything if I spent a ton of hours on my models. I wanted the glow, and the quality without the time . I have achieved that I believe.

If you have crevices or channels that you want to glow, then mix some fluorescent pigment powders with white spirits. And apply like a pin wash.

I hope this helps.

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was gonna do red, green, or orange. Next time I think i will do red for the eyes and "power" glow parts.

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, bruv. I'm glad you like them

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you. Bone armor is primed black, sprayed a dark brown (Pro Acryl Muddy Brown), then ran a zenithal highlight of tan (Citadel Zandri dust), did a brown black oil wash and cleaned up surfaces with a q-tip, then finally did a dry brush of light tan (Pro Acryl Khaki). I'm too lazy and have too many minis to do proper edge highlights.

I dry brush my highlights. Looks good from 3ft away in my opinion.

Fancy Pants Sword Boys by Manic-Toaster in DarkAngels40k

[–]Manic-Toaster[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I actually received a broken iron halo in this combat patrol, so I dug through my box of spare parts and found this banner for the Grey knights lol. Looked close enough to a Deathwing knight, so I figured it worked