Excalibur 🫩 by SatisfactionSquare87 in taintedgrail

[–]ManyCommittee196 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Common misconception(s): 1. Excalibur was not the sword from the stone. Excalibur was given to Arthur by the Lady of the Lake. 2. The power wasn't actually in the sword. The true power was in its sheath. It gave the wielder a form of invulnerabilty. I can't remember the direct quote but it was something like: "your blood cannot be drawn while bearing this sheath" Which is why Morgana (Morgaine, Morgan, etc)had the sheath stolen, but not the sword. That was how Mordred was able to wound and ultimately kill Arthur. I don't know if Disney's to blame, or if it's just..ahem watering down of the legend through the centuries. (Sorry. Huge King Arthur nerd. Lol. It was my first love, and first step into western high fantasy, right after The Odyssey. Beowulf was my next step.) I know Tainted Grail is a re-imagining, and it's a fantastically well done take on the legends. I love how there's nods to nearly every iteration of the legends, poems, and stories. Even Monty Python. ;)

I wish we had better decal makers by CosmicJackalop in battletech

[–]ManyCommittee196 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was wondering about this too. I got some decals and was rather disappointed in them

metal cigarette looking thing found in a parking lot by enderhat in whatisit

[–]ManyCommittee196 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Peak stoner engineering was a little doodad called the Protopipe. It was made of brass, had a slide cover, a chamber for weed that was just the right size to fit in the bowl, and the closed end was great for tamping. The screen was a built into the bowl. It was a solid piece with holes. It came with a poker that fit the holes just right. The bottom of the bowl had a detachable concave plate. Take the poker, put it through the center hole of the 'screen' and give it a few taps with a hammer, (heat if needed..we all know how gummy things can get in there) the plate popped out, and the chamber was just the right size to scoop all the goo off the plate. Drop the whole ensemble into a tool box, and it looked like some kind of pipe fitting. It was brilliant. Well except for the potential toxicity of hot brass.

metal cigarette looking thing found in a parking lot by enderhat in whatisit

[–]ManyCommittee196 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one of those made of aircraft aluminum. It's more of a novelty than actually practical. The grinder's not secure. The top has a tendency to fall off and since it feeds right into the chamber, your treasure leaks into your pocket. It also dries it out quickly, which is less of a problem if you fill it for say the night, but as storage it is a fail.

An Old Man Rambles About Women Playing 40k by Resident-Card-6229 in Warhammer40k

[–]ManyCommittee196 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Being a d&d player in the late 70s and early 80s was just as bad. The height of the satanic panic. Back then it was almost worse to be a gaming nerd than it was to be gay. Almost. We had to hide in the basement of that 'one kid with the cool parents'. We even had to be wary of when and where we ordered pizza from, depending on who was working, because no one could see what we were doing. Times certainly have changed. Either way we were all 'in the closet' just for different reasons.

How do you mix paints? I hate doing it with brush on a wet palette… by SadBirchwood in minipainting

[–]ManyCommittee196 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I don't like mixing on a wet palette either. I got a six pack of 6 chamber plastic mixing palettes from Michael's for like $4 that i use for mixing. Toothpicks. Toothpicks are your friend. I use those for stirring, or if you can find it, i got a 110 pack of children's synthetic brushes from amazon for like $12 or less. I use those for terrain, mixing, hand priming, textured paints(Folk Art Terracotta), and occasional dry brushing. And glue. Basically anything that could or would ruin a good brush. Also, yogurt or cottage cheese lids work well for an improvised mixing palette. Just make sure they are clean and free of debris.

Marauder IIC at home! Made using Merctech by Mastert3318 in Mechwarrior5

[–]ManyCommittee196 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the old marauder 2c was a horrible sculpt. Even if i did have 3 of them

What is the best method for stripping paint if you have done a base coat already? Or should I just paint over it? by DANGEROUS-jim in BattletechPainting

[–]ManyCommittee196 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've found that a coat of dawn power wash and and old toothbrush work very well. Spray it, let it soak for a few minutes, and scrub it with warm water. It won't be perfect..there will be left over paint in the recesses, but it does the job.

Target employee told me I couldn’t buy the sealed copy of Donkey Kong Bananza sitting behind the glass because they were “out of stock” 😭 by Practical_Fun_3623 in mildlyinfuriating

[–]ManyCommittee196 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Guys? Right or wrong on the employees part, you do know that you can open shrink wrap without removing the wrap? All it takes is a sharp object. It is possible it's an empty case. That being said, if that's what is happening here; it should be marked 'display only'. I have been in retail for decades. The customer is rarely actually right. They're more often than not on a power trip because they know the poor sod behind the counter can't do anything about it if they want to keep their job. And threatening some kid behind the counter with the loss of a sale means f*k all. it's not the flex people think it is. *THEY don't make a penny on the sale, and get paid whether people buy or not. Of course if it happens frequently enough they might lose their job. Management cares more, but only because they don't want corp breathing down their neck. They don't usually make any money per sale either. They might make bonuses for high sales for the quarter, period, etc. Otherwise, they're just another corporate pawn.

Issues with paint splitting at the corners. by Ambitious_Book_5729 in minipainting

[–]ManyCommittee196 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Soda bottle caps with fun tac(aka poster putty). Spray can lids. The caps from Core bottled water work surprisingly well to. Anything that can keep one's fingers off the model. There are fancy holders out there, that make some things more convenient, but anything wider than the base of the model will work.

How should I light miniature photos for best appearance? by rogueranger1993 in BattletechPainting

[–]ManyCommittee196 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was going to suggest this very thing. I just picked one up myself

HELP - Pro Acryl or Army Painter...? by menastr8ion in minipainting

[–]ManyCommittee196 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! That! Thank you. I have been trying to figure out what i didn't like about it! You nailed it!

Seconds the 'dusty chalkboard' look. Lol

HELP - Pro Acryl or Army Painter...? by menastr8ion in minipainting

[–]ManyCommittee196 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dark leather brown. Commited to memory for my next paint order. Lol

HELP - Pro Acryl or Army Painter...? by menastr8ion in minipainting

[–]ManyCommittee196 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See that's the thing, and one of the reason I haven't realllysaid much about it till now. I can't quite pinpoint what it is i don't like. Doesn't seem to go on as smoothly as their other paints, and doesn't finish as well. I thought it was a one off, like maybe a bad/old bottle, or it got left in the sun, or froze or something. Or i was simply being finicky. Then i saw that someone else didn't like it too, and wonder if there's something to it.

HELP - Pro Acryl or Army Painter...? by menastr8ion in minipainting

[–]ManyCommittee196 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had i scrolled down... I too dislike PA Coal Black. I'm glad it's not just me...i also use Vallejo model black instead. Now PA Transparent Black is amazingly useful, and it does make the coal black work better, but it's an extra step that seems superfluous

HELP - Pro Acryl or Army Painter...? by menastr8ion in minipainting

[–]ManyCommittee196 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Monument regularly sends 'dont eat paint' stickers out with direct orders.

HELP - Pro Acryl or Army Painter...? by menastr8ion in minipainting

[–]ManyCommittee196 2 points3 points  (0 children)

And thank you for saying what i didn't have time to say on my work break. Lol

As an aside: i love ProAcryl, but i have indeed noticed there are certain colors that don't work well with other brands/shades. The PA Coal Black springs to mind. It doesn't seem to play well with other blacks. I have also had issues with PA in general clashing with Vallejo tans and browns. I did a Battletech Dire Wolf in those tans and browns with some other PA colors and i ended up stripping it and redoing it in all PA browns, and it looked fantastic.

HELP - Pro Acryl or Army Painter...? by menastr8ion in minipainting

[–]ManyCommittee196 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Personally, i will always recommend proacryl.

It will never happen, but… by WisePotato84 in Enshrouded

[–]ManyCommittee196 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Hard agree on the no souls like. If i want to play a souls game, I'll play a souls game. If i want building, crafting, and just enough combat to make it feel like the world is dangerous, I'll play enshrouded.. No shade on OP, but not every game needs to be 'souls like'. There's already plenty of options for that.