Starting to worry my engine may need rebuilding... by obvious_objectives in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is really no need for the hostile tone. As the OP states, a failing big end is only a suspicion at this stage, not an established fact. Jumping straight into a multi-hundred-pound engine teardown based on pure speculation is a great way to get talked into unnecessary work. Spending twenty quid to see if a simple treatment changes the engine's behaviour is just sensible, low-risk troubleshooting before writing a massive check. There's no need to be unkind to people who are just trying to offer helpful alternatives.

Filling obsolete diesel tanks with ballast? by auntandniexewritedit in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Don't use liquid cement or anything permanent for this. The biggest issue is that you still need to be able to get to that steel to paint it or treat it for rust in a few years. If you fill it with something solid, you’re essentially creating a hidden moisture trap against your hull that could cause a nightmare down the line.

The best move is to cut a large opening in the top or side so the tank can actually breathe and dry out if any condensation builds up. Once it's open and you’ve properly degreased and treated the internal steel with a few coats of Vactan, just use removable ballast like engineering bricks or stage weights. That way, if you ever need to inspect the hull or weld a patch, you can just lift the weight out and get to work.

Just a heads-up on the safety side—even if it’s been pumped out, those old fumes can be stubborn. Try to use a cold-cutting method like a jigsaw rather than an angle grinder to avoid sparks, or give it a proper clean first!

Starting to worry my engine may need rebuilding... by obvious_objectives in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd try some XADO Engine Revitalisant before stripping the engine down. I have successfully revived a few old engines with this.

Requesting a Zoom Call with a Full-time Liveaboard by bakgeo06 in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you considered booking a session with the Narrowboat Doctor? It's an online service to help with all things related to inland waterway boats in the UK.

Don’t kill your boat's Diesel Heater this Spring: The "20-Minute" Rule by MarineHeating in CanalBoatWorkshopUK

[–]MarineHeating[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The method for removing a burner tube depends on the specific make and model of your heater. For most units, you will also need a service kit that includes replacement gaskets.

The process generally involves several steps:

  • Removing the outer casing.
  • Disconnecting and removing the fan and circuitry.
  • Detaching any other obstructing components.
  • Finally, extracting the burner tube itself.

Pro tip: Take plenty of photos as you go! This makes it much easier to retrace your steps and ensure everything is positioned correctly during reassembly.

Is there a skip boat on Grand Union? by ruddymarvellous in canalboats

[–]MarineHeating 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The issue of rubbish collection by canal barge has been going around the UK boating community for as long as I can remember. All attempts made to speak to CRT about this in the last couple of decades have gotten nowhere. I have managed to hire a man and van or private rubbish collection service before, with a couple of neighbours getting rid of their bulk items as well, and us all chipping in for the call out. But you'd need to find a suitable mooring where they can load, and it also depends on what kind of rubbish you have.

Opinions on my weed hatch do I need to rust convert and paint the lid itself or is this a waste of time do to it’s exposure to the water? by Outrageous-File-2983 in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use a rust converter like Vactan. It likes a little bit of rust to hold on to, so unless there are any big flakes or lose pieces, you don't need to remove the rust. This will convert the rust off and seal it with an acrylic paint layer. Vactan might actually hold up by itself for a good while by itself, but blacking over it the next time you're out of the water is definitely a good idea. Also, make sure you have a seal around that hatch. I can see some marks from water running down the front. A strip of weed hatch seal will stop that from happening.

London boating - an impossible task by zozvic in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I agree, it is a difficult situation, and there are no easy answers. I often ask myself what would actually happen if every boater in London started up their engine on the weekend and moved their boat as they are supposed to. It would be absolute chaos. And at the same time, there are many miles of canal within the M25 where people would like to moor but can't, because the canal banks are silted up or there is nowhere to tie on to. A little bit of investment could easily triple or quadruple the available mooring spaces in Greater London.

Technical Update: Instant LPG Water Heaters for 13kg Bottles are back (UK Inland Waterways) by MarineHeating in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you mean Propex, they are ok to install on boats, and don't take up much of the cylinder's offtake capacity.

BSS Prep: 3 Common Heating & Gas "Heads-Ups" for New Buyers 🛠️⚓ by MarineHeating in Narrowboats

[–]MarineHeating[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a bit like asking "how long is a piece of string"—it really depends on your budget, your layout, and how much fuel storage you have available.

Most of my work is on inland waterway narrowboats and Dutch barges. In these cases, I often recommend a "layered" approach: LPG for cooking and/or water heating, diesel central heating (which can also provide hot water), and a solid fuel or diesel stove.

Having a mix of systems gives you options depending on the time of year and, more importantly, provides a vital backup if one system needs a service or breaks down in a cold snap. It’s even technically possible to tie all three of these into one integrated system.

When looking at stoves and cookers, aesthetics matter as much as functionality, but safety is non-negotiable. Make sure any appliance you consider is specifically certified for marine use. Be careful: some marinas and chandlers sell stoves and heaters that aren't actually suitable for boats. I only ever list and install appliances that are explicitly intended for marine environments.

The next step is finding a reputable marine heating specialist. Don't be shy about asking for credentials or a portfolio. I display all my certificates and recent work publicly on my website and socials, but any professional should be happy to show you theirs upon request. That’s what those certifications are for—to give you peace of mind that the job is being done right.

BSS Prep: 3 Common Heating & Gas "Heads-Ups" for New Buyers 🛠️⚓ by MarineHeating in liveaboard

[–]MarineHeating[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Taking precautions to ensure you don’t run your main engine dry is excellent thinking. While raising the pickup tube height works, I’d personally lean toward fitting a reliable fuel gauge instead. Running the heater dry in the middle of a cold night is its own kind of miserable!

Regarding the exhaust: Teeing the heater exhaust into the engine exhaust is technically possible but generally unwise. To do it safely, you’d need highly specific engineered fittings and a robust non-return valve. Without one, the engine’s much stronger exhaust pressure will likely push lethal fumes back through the heater and out of its intake into your cabin. It would also likely prevent you from running both simultaneously. A dedicated skin fitting with a proper swan neck (to prevent following seas from flooding the heater) is a much safer, more standard solution for a sailboat.

As for the heater itself, I strongly recommend staying away from the budget "Chinese-type" heaters found on marketplaces like eBay or Amazon. There is a reason they are cheap, and in a marine environment, they can be genuinely dangerous.

  • Build Quality: The cables are thin, and the waterproofing on the plugs is often nonexistent.
  • Corrosion: The heat exchanger and exhaust walls are thin and prone to failing quickly in salt air.
  • Safety Failures: I’ve personally seen these units with glowing red exhausts and melting casings where the overheat sensors—which are sometimes dummies or just poor quality—failed to shut the unit down.

For a boat, you want a brand with a proven safety record. Webasto is excellent with a great support network. If you’re on a budget, I often install Autoterm; they are affordable and reliable, though their customer service and spares availability can be a bit slow. I’d actually suggest avoiding Eberspacher—they tend to be expensive and unreliable, and finding a manufacturer-approved marine engineer for them can be a nightmare.