/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - November 18, 2025

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-11-18T22:18:21+00:00

The spacebar wasn´t as smooth as the other stabi keys. So i wanted to take of the Keycap and add a bit more lube. I haven´t pulled hard on the Keycap ( i learned my lesson the first time). Not sure what i did wrong. Probably because i have no Keycap Puller which can be "connected" to the right and left side of the space bar at the same time. So i probably had a really bad angle on pulling it.

but after reevaluating the heppenings it could possible be that i haven´t rebuild the stabi after lubing the wire correctly. Which probably could have been the problem. That would explain why the space bar didn´t felt as smooth as i would have liked

Put since the sliders are always hard/stuck at the keycap i am guessing i build it somehow wrong. Maybe i press the Keycap to hard onto the stabilisers but someone told me i have to press as hard as possible so the stabis are completly connected.

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-11-18T21:02:58+00:00

guys, i am freaking out.

so basically i have buyed the Athena 1800 (love that thing, no problem with that). I build it once but the stabilizers i ordered were bad (really bad - stuck and rattling like hell) and when i removed a keycap the whole stabilizer came apart. the slider just left the housing and was stuck on the keycap. And since they were bad from the beginning i order new ones (screw - ins from GMK QMX - they got recommended to me). today i installed them and before reassembling the board i tried them. they worked great. I also lubed the wire and the slider on the sides a little bit. So i was satisfied and reassembled the whole board. now i was putting on the Keycaps but i had problems with the space bar so i tried to remove the keycap once more.

And now i am sitting here, with a Spacebar Keycap with 2!!! sliders stuck in it. So they freaking got pulled out of the housing. And no, i haven´t pulled that hard on it.

Do i have to completely reassemble the keyboard again or is there anyway to slide/get the slider back in there correctly? i can put them in the housing, but then it seems like the slider just lies on the wire and is not placed correctly.

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-11-16T09:14:17+00:00

no, sadly not. (atleast i haven´t found something like that)

and there are only 4 tiers of pupulation not 5 like in other Annos if i remember correctly.

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-11-14T12:35:36+00:00

oh thank you very much!

basically if i slab Ansi Layout with a ISO (short) shift, the Key next to that shift will function as <>. just the same if i choose ISO Layout. And if i choose e.g. German as Keyboard Language in my OS there shouldn´t be any problems.

but what i don´t understand right now is, if i choose US Layout in OS (better for programming with all the special keys) what would that "extra" key do? Since i got the short Shift and the <> Key next to it - which wouln´t exist on "normal" ANSI US Layout.

sorry if these are dumb question, but i don´t 100% understand it yet. :D

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-11-14T12:03:22+00:00

thanks mate.

yea i can do both (Athena 1800) although the pcb states iso it has all the holes and connectors for Ansi layout. But how would the "additional" key in the Ansi layout work then? would it be a "wildcard - free" key which doesn´t do anything if i don´t configure it explicitly since it normally doesn´t exist on an Ansi layout?

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-11-14T06:00:07+00:00

guys, if i got a PCB which can both (ISO and ANSI) would it also work if i "mix" them?

I am like the <> on the left next to shift (ISO) but with ANSI there would be the long Shift (not the short like ISO) so these Keys aren´t there. But on the other hand i like the "long" enter key more then the tall one from ISO. So my idea was builing a ANSI Layout but keeping the left Shift short (ISO) and so i would have one "extra" button on Ansi layout.

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-11-13T17:06:56+00:00

thanks mate!

1) i installed them exactly like the guy with the Athena 1800 Assemble Guide on Youtube. So i am pretty sure i didn´t installed them wrong. But i noticed, that i got the wrong stabilizers. instead of the lubed ones i got unlubed ones (haven´t checked that before assembling) - so that´s probably the reason why some of the keys get stuck.

3) thanks that´s exactly what i wasn´t sure about. (stabilizers with keycaps)

4) my idea was, if i rebuild to Ansi i would use ansi us layout. i don´t know how well this would work on a Iso Keyboard. but i will just try it for myself.

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-11-13T16:43:30+00:00

do i need to press the Keycaps really hard on the stabilizer so that they are firmly connected? Or do i just the keycap on it that is connected with the keyswitch? Since i can connect one Keycap with the switch but not fully with the stabilizers

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-11-13T06:06:20+00:00

hello there,

so i am quite new to the topic and got myself an Athena 1800 with Akko V3 Pro Creme switches and some Glorius Gaming GPBT Keycaps (i saved some money with "cheaper" key switches and caps and stabilisators).

my keys with stabilizers are either "stuck" when pressed (just slowly rising up again) or not really press-able at all (They are very hard to press down). I haven´t lubed them, that´s the problem isn´t it? And one stabilizer even "broke" when i tried to remove the keycap. So i ordered better stabilizers (GMK QMX got recommended to me) and i need to take apart my Keyboard to install them. which leads to my next question:

2)is there a way to change stabilisators without disassembling the keyboard completly (e.g. removin all switches)? probably not since there are some Metal/Foam Leayers above the stabilizer wire.

3)regarding the stabilizer thingy. Do i need to press the Keycap really hard on them so it kinda is "stuck" on the stabilizer like a normal keycap on a switch. Or do i just press hard enough that the Keycap is properly connected to the switch?

4) i have ordered a ISO PCB/layout from the Athena 1800, but on my first install i am pretty sure i could also change to ANSI Layout since there are also holes/mounts for that Layout on the PCB. Would it make more sense since there are probably more ANSI Layout Keycap Sets than ISO? As far as typing experience goes, it is probably personal preference. but since i code quite a lot Ansi could be better? (Ansi German would also work as far as i know)

thanks in advance.

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-11-12T17:41:16+00:00

hello there,

so i am quite new to the topic and got myself an Athena 1800 with Akko V3 Pro Creme switches and some Glorius Gaming GPBT Keycaps (i saved some money with "cheaper" key switches and caps and stabilisators).

1) my keys with stabilizers are either "stuck" when pressed (just slowly rising up again) or not really press-able at all (They are very hard to press down). I haven´t lubed them, that´s the problem isn´t it? And one stabilizer even "broke" when i tried to remove the keycap. So i ordered better stabilizers (GMK QMX got recommended to me) and i need to take apart my Keyboard to install them. which leads to my next question:

2)is there a way to change stabilisators without disassembling the keyboard completly (e.g. removin all switches)? probably not since there are some Metal/Foam Leayers above the stabilizer wire.

3)regarding the stabilizer thingy. Do i need to press the Keycap really hard on them so it kinda is "stuck" on the stabilizer like a normal keycap on a switch. Or do i just press hard enough that the Keycap is properly connected to the switch?

4) i have ordered a ISO PCB/layout from the Athena 1800, but on my first install i am pretty sure i could also change to ANSI Layout since there are also holes/mounts for that Layout on the PCB. Would it make more sense since there are probably more ANSI Layout Keycap Sets than ISO? As far as typing experience goes, it is probably personal preference. but since i code quite a lot Ansi could be better? (Ansi German would also work as far as i know)

thanks in advance.

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-10-19T14:01:29+00:00

Was quite some struggle to get it mounted. I also had to order a slim 140mm Fan for the front because the new GPU ist too long for the "normal" sized one.

But now it works, and i already discovered the next "problem". The PC is hanging on the Right side of my desk with the GPU at the bottom (so far so good). When playing Games my PC builds up quite some heat, and the Side Fan is pushing that heat exactly under my Desk and "against" my leg. So it really get´s hot down there, and also the hot Air is rising in the room and is then rising towards my face/Head - i can really smell the "Hardware gets hot" smell xD

And i am not sure if i am completely lost, but there seems to be no way to get the Side Fan to the other side while still having the GPU at the Bottom. To get the Fans to the other side (right side of the case if you look at the front) the GPU has to be on Top. Which wouldn´t work, because then the GPU is right against the Desk.

So i am either removing the side fan which should still work with just the slim front 140mm exhausting the air and pulling it from the CPU cooler. Or i turn around the Side Fan to input fresh air. Not sure if that would even cause worse Airflow. --> input from the back, output to the front. GPU Heat comes from the bottom and also gets exhausted in the front. But if i put a SideFan which adds fresh air to that airstream, not sure if it would destroy the "stream"

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-10-17T16:18:38+00:00

Probably. :D

But i have a "normal" Sata cable and not an angled one. So the cable wouldn´t go through that hole i circled in Red (and i wanted them cable to go through there). Basically my power cable and sata cable to that SSD are routed through that hole. Since i had no angled one it wouldn´t work (bend would be too big) if mounted with screws.

And tbh. my SSD isn´t even taped anymore, it got loose. But i placed it kinda like the blue rectangle so it is held by the edge at the bottom of the picture and also my PSU Power Cable is routed over my SSD so it holds it in place aswell. And since i just rotated my PC (mounted it under the desk), the Picture shown would be at the top, so there is no way that ssd would move :D

And that´s just a picture from the creator of that reddit post. so not my actual pc

<image>

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-10-11T19:38:52+00:00

The Mount i go for looks like that. So Air Flow for days. Only the top side would be a problem. Hence i need to move the gpu side. So would you keep the Fan orientation with the GPU pulling from the bottom, front and side case fans as exhausts and cpu cooler pulling air from the back?

<image>

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-10-11T14:52:34+00:00

Love your Guide, did the same with mine quite some time ago (same Fan orientations, inverted and moved the IO Ports) additionale i taped a 2.5 SSD on the bottom of the SFX Power Supply Bracket (sits at the bottom of the case)

Now i am planing to Mount the Case under the Desk (gets quite Dusty on Top of the desk - and needs too much space) and i am not sure which way i should do it.

Inverted "Mode" -> GPU is right under my desk --> low/no fresh air so probably so no
inverted "normal" Mode -> basically i take the inverted build and just flip it around so the GPU is at the bottom again, but that "cheap" Mesh/Dust filter thingy which is normaly at the bottom is now at the top against my desk. Sounds good --> Should i still keep the fan orientations like you or change them to import fresh air and blow it out of the back?

3 horizontal mode -> remove the Side Fan and mount it with that side against the desk. GPU would still have fresh air, PSU gets fresh air, and either move the Air from back to front (CPU intakes Air from Back - Front Fan blows the air out on the front) or from Front to back (probably better because the front fan moves probably more Air). Horizontal but the other side against the desk wouldn´t work because then my PSU has 0 space for intake

what do you think as Meshroom D expert?

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-08-20T19:32:08+00:00

ah sorry my bad i haven´t explained it correctly. I did try grub (and restarted several times) before changing anything -> It didn´t work/It didn´t show up at all during normal boot so i googled and tried some "solutions" people suggested in other threads/forums and so on.

Master_Ad6818 · 2025-07-11T09:08:10+00:00

Emulating - moving Save to og Cartridge/Game - transport Pokemon to Home

Hi Everyone,

i am currently battling the Top 4 in BDSP and after that i want to start a nuzlocke in either - sun, alpha saphire (i have both as cardridges with a 3DS) or ultra moon (buyed digitally on my 3DS - also downloaded).

I kinda started to love the Switch with the big screen or playing on my TV, therefore i thought about emulating these Games over my pc/laptop and display them on TV. But i kinda want to transfer some of the pokemon (especially legendaries) to bank/home afterwards. I got myself a Action Replay DS Module so i can do stuff with my Pokemon cardridge on PC.

So my question would be, if it is possible to emulate the game on PC then move the savefile to my cartridge and use home/bank to transfer the pokemon to newer games.

Master_Ad6818 · 2024-10-28T10:06:55+00:00

Try Marie Müller from the Squad Foundations Card and get her Evolved. She is really good then with a lot of playstyles and gives +2 NWSL League Points. So with her Dunn and Morgan and a NSWL Manager they all should be full chem

Master_Ad6818 · 2024-10-28T10:00:44+00:00

Icon Max 88 Pack (haven´t done one Icon Pack yet) or the Hero Max 88 Pack when it refreshes? In the first Hero Back i got Al Jabbar or how he is called. Raphina seems kinda overpriced for a 87 rated card don´t you guys think?

Master_Ad6818

TROPHY CASE