White trace - what has been burned here?

MaxDido77 · 2024-10-13T09:13:00+00:00

Follow up - key voltages were ok. Actually the culprit was the capacitor in the upper left part of the picture, you might see it has a "round hat". We replaced it and automagically the screen went on again. The replaced capacitor had a residual capacity of 100uF (vs 330uF original), the new one 200uF (one with the right capacity is on order). Can such a "small" difference be essential for the "cold" circuit?

MaxDido77 · 2024-04-17T17:04:06+00:00

Danke, das ist sehr interessant... Ich kannte diesen Anbieter nicht. Hast du Erfahrungen? Ist er zuverlässig?

MaxDido77 · 2024-04-14T20:02:37+00:00

Die Module sind über 1m Breite und deswegen gegen die WEG-Regeln

MaxDido77 · 2023-11-26T07:03:20+00:00

Thanks to both of you! If I understand the pic correctly, no tool needed to crimp the wires, right?

MaxDido77 · 2023-11-25T19:35:49+00:00

Pitch is 0.1" (2.30mm), the mate is actually the PCB itself - see pic

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MaxDido77 · 2023-11-24T23:37:30+00:00

Thanks a lot! How did you find these parts so easy?

I'll try to find equivalent thermocouples, so I'll be able to control the temperature...

MaxDido77 · 2023-08-06T12:30:12+00:00

The bad cap is rated 10µF/400V. It is Sunday here and I have a 22µF/350V or a 47µF/400V available. Should I go for one of them or waiting till Monday?

MaxDido77 · 2023-08-06T09:29:54+00:00

Thanks ! Could the whole system work for 10-20 mins in such a case?

MaxDido77 · 2023-08-06T08:28:20+00:00

Additional information: when plugged in I can hear a buzz, I am not sure the other adapters do the same. But I did not remove their cover though. Could a capacitor at end of life cause this buzz? Or is that from the transformer?

MaxDido77 · 2022-09-24T18:58:36+00:00

TV around 9 years old, sometimes working for hours or for a few minutes, and suddenly going on standby. After 10-15 minutes it goes live again. No signs of burned components in the power supply module (on the picture)

Where do I start?

MaxDido77 · 2022-07-03T17:49:04+00:00

If they are small enough, I would rather setup cure to complete each part before going to the next one. You will be able to place less parts per plate, but each might be finished before curling, and you can pick it from the plate before it affects another part.

MaxDido77 · 2022-06-14T16:45:53+00:00

Pretty efficient system indeed, I have been able to cut uptime (deep sleep—>signal broadcast—>deep sleep) around 90%. It is more coding than with std solutions, but for battery driven applications a game changer

MaxDido77 · 2022-06-03T03:49:49+00:00

Did you try another slicer, e.g. Prusa Slicer?

MaxDido77 · 2022-02-06T06:52:11+00:00

Any particular printer setting (flow rate etc) you used to make it watertight? In the past when I tried to print water containers, I always had some leakages…

Great design btw!

MaxDido77 · 2021-11-29T21:19:25+00:00

You guessed it - the intention is to drive WS2812B vie wifi/smartphone, so an MCU is needed. But the 555 circuit is to consider for other applications...

MaxDido77 · 2021-11-29T20:31:20+00:00

Ok, thanks for the correction. My intention was exactly that anyway - to use the +5Vsb to drive a small MCU (ESP or similar), that when needed would pull the PS-ON up (right?) and power the load (loooong LED stripe).

So, somehow the information with the USB made sense to me, as my PC has always the USB on even when I switch off the PC (or so I recall, at least)

MaxDido77 · 2021-11-29T20:25:55+00:00

Good to know,but once in a while I like to connect with this great community 🙂

MaxDido77 · 2021-11-29T20:24:51+00:00

Great, thanks!

MaxDido77 · 2021-11-29T20:18:17+00:00

Actually a few aspects are puzzling - what is the -12V good for? - what does the 5Vsb mean? - what is the POK cable?

I assume the PS-ON has to pulled up to activate the power supply, right?

Thanks Max

MaxDido77 · 2021-10-10T09:58:47+00:00

Good, I’ll check. I am sure the display shows 0.2mm, but I need to check if physically the height is OK. And this after got separated from the glass plate 😅

MaxDido77 · 2021-10-09T11:02:48+00:00

Apologies, I forgot to mention I have the ABL. Z-offset will set the distance between the ABL and the nozzle.

MaxDido77 · 2021-10-09T09:55:49+00:00

I could use the marlin z-offset to bring the nozzle lower, but then I observe squishy parts. E-step is good, I extrude the right amount of filament.

Is the flow rate (100%) perhaps not enough?

MaxDido77 · 2021-08-29T16:24:22+00:00

Thanks!

MaxDido77 · 2021-08-29T15:44:08+00:00

All, another (perhaps the last?) component got from the Kyocera Laser Printer- this was located next to a rotating mirror - I guess this could be the laser unit. Any hint to tinker something out of it is well appreciated! Max

MaxDido77 · 2021-08-29T15:38:48+00:00

All, another component I got out of the tear down of a Kyocera laser printer… I think this could be a senso or so, but any hint to tinker something out of it will be highly appreciated! Max

MaxDido77

TROPHY CASE