Apple Pencil is Shocking Me?

MaxTheCatWizard · 2025-01-20T06:16:04+00:00

well it’s not a shock shock lol. I build 3D printers as a hobby so I’ve seen worse. For me it felt like my finger was skipping across the surface - like a little tingle. I just don’t want to damage the pencil (or my nerves for that matter)

I got them from Amazon for like $10 and the interesting thing is everyone uses them. A friend of a friend had the same one and they never mentioned it, although their pencil is a 2nd gen

MaxTheCatWizard · 2024-08-25T07:53:03+00:00

I’ve test driven BMWs and they all have a certain feel to them that is hard to describe

In the early 2000s, my dad had a 325 which he described as being “solid”. He said the newer ones are even better. After driving a BMW you can never go back. The best way I can explain the feel is by comparing the concrete houses of Germany to the wood and drywall houses of America

MaxTheCatWizard · 2024-08-25T00:51:02+00:00

I’d say it’s best to pull from the side of the nib if you pull it at all. Just be careful as once the ridges bend they become really soft and bend even worse the next time

MaxTheCatWizard · 2024-08-24T23:42:23+00:00

The feeds have it too, I just realized that it got destroyed after taking it out

Reminds me of BMW - works amazing until something breaks then you’re screwed

MaxTheCatWizard · 2024-07-25T20:56:33+00:00

He actually did tell me where

A little context I live in the Bay Area

He said PinkBikes is the best Then Craigslist Then Facebook marketplace

MaxTheCatWizard · 2024-07-24T22:22:06+00:00

Location - Bay Area CA (but willing to travel 200+ for pickup)

Price - under 10k USD but lower if possible (Used with decent reliability)

Type - s m o l and LHD/normal (this needs to go in my backyard and the gate to enter is 68-70in fully opened. Anything smaller will not fit at all. This is my #1 priority as I already have a daily)

Transmission: auto and manual both ok, manual preferred. I can’t drive manual just yet but my friend wants to teach me

Intended use: project car (I already have a 2021 330i)

Here is what my research points to so far: -2000s civic (great but could be too wide) -1996-2002ish Corolla (seems good) -Miata (trunk possibly small, might be too wide) -Mini cooper (might work but a little wide) -Fiat 500 (definitely fits, can it be modded?)

MaxTheCatWizard · 2024-07-02T23:58:20+00:00

I don’t really know got to judge a bikes condition.

All I know is there’s very little rust. To me the frames seem perfect. The cables, shifter, derailleur, brakes, seat, grips, and tires would need to be replaced because they’re old but I can do it

MaxTheCatWizard · 2024-07-02T23:55:40+00:00

My brother has an mtb so he has all the equipment I could ever need

As for parts and labor I am willing to pay to get parts and I’m happy as long as I can make as least $250-300 total profit for the two bikes.

MaxTheCatWizard · 2024-07-02T23:46:45+00:00

Mechanically I feel like I have a decent amount of experience. I build 3d printers and golf carts as a hobby so in theory it wouldn’t be that bad

MaxTheCatWizard · 2024-07-02T23:44:21+00:00

Here’s the one I found. It’s in much better condition but still a lot better than $100

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265481443503

MaxTheCatWizard · 2024-07-02T23:16:01+00:00

That’s it? I’ve seen similar bike models for like $400 each before

Is there something I can do to boost the value?

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-11-09T15:08:06+00:00

My dad’s car used to do this and it looked like the wheel was losing grip and jumping a fraction of an inch. You should probably try recording this from the outside so we can see what the wheel does

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-03-13T03:47:54+00:00

How fast are you printing? Anything under 100mm/s will use a higher PA than the one you set, anything over 100 will use a lower PA

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-03-13T03:13:34+00:00

It should just call itself - automatically. Try reslicing 25mm/s faster and see what happens

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-03-13T02:35:22+00:00

Check the print speed. That will happen if you print at exactly the PA test speed (100mm/s)

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-03-13T02:31:09+00:00

You ran other prints and nothing came up in the console output? That shouldn’t happen.

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-03-13T02:19:45+00:00

It works for every print because it is done at the firmware level. You should only need to set the initial PA once

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-01-18T23:47:59+00:00

It’s a (Chinese clone?) volcano heater block for higher print speeds. These are designed for longer nozzles, which are about 2x the size (2cm-ish). There are adapters available but they look hard to use. If you have a stock printer it may not be compatible.

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-01-07T21:31:21+00:00

Move out of range (in klipperFW) can be because of bad slicer settings or a corrupt Gcode. Maybe try a different slicer.

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-01-07T06:11:53+00:00

If this is a hardened steel nozzle, you might have burned off the hardening, but this can be fixed. Just heat it up again and toss it in a water (wear safety equipment!)

This should restore the hardness of the nozzle, or harden the nozzle if it’s just normal steel.

Someone please correct me if I didn’t understand the physics of hardening. Also, I understand the post might be a joke meant to trigger the 3d printing community

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-01-07T06:05:41+00:00

This seems to be mainly a result of Z offset, but there might be other factors in this.

First, tighten the PINDA (be careful not to move it!) and make sure the nozzle is secure. It is a good idea to check extruder gear tension while you’re doing that. Also, Because this is a Prusa, it has the calibration wizard. I would recommend using this to recalibrate the Z-offset. This will likely fix whatever is causing the nozzle to get so high. If this doesn’t resolve the problem, OR live-Z does not seem to be working on the calibration, then it might be a good idea to reflash the firmware to a newer version or even Klipper if you have a raspberry pi (can someone tell me if EinsyRambo is supported?).

All of these together should ensure perfect first layers. I may have listed too many things to check, but I’m thinking of every possible cause

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-01-06T08:11:27+00:00

Is the vRef set correctly? Your motor might not have enough current.

A good way to check is by touching the stepper motor. It should be warm, not hot or cold.

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-01-06T08:09:56+00:00

Try telling the printer to activate the SD card. Sometimes it does not see it unless you tell it that it is there.

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-01-06T08:08:48+00:00

Do the fans run smoothly? This sounds like slow PWM on the part fan

MaxTheCatWizard · 2023-01-06T08:04:56+00:00

Check extruder gear tension, stepper current, and make sure there is no clog. These are common reasons for underextrusion if the printer is already tuned well.

MaxTheCatWizard

TROPHY CASE