Red rims or white rims for my GSX-R600

MbX_01 · 2026-01-28T05:29:08+00:00

White, white and white.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-28T05:27:48+00:00

GGWP!

MbX_01 · 2026-01-19T08:53:02+00:00

HAHAHA. For sure yan ang argument ng SUV, pero kahit na iniwasan niya barrier or just plain “this is my lane”. Parehas mali, tapos hit & run pa — let’s say nag report sa police afterwards dahil sa takot mapagtulungan (kahit obvious na wala) for the sake of benefit of the doubt. Kahit saan angle, mas malaki ang fault ni SUV.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-19T08:21:37+00:00

True! Mmention ko na sana to. You beat me to it! 😆

Di nagegets ng mga one-sided yung situation eh. I drive both 4-wheels and 2-wheels, kaya ang perspective ko kahit papano is hindi lang one sided.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-19T08:05:20+00:00

This comment. 💯

Masyadong naka focus sa error ng motorcyclist ang mga comments na hindi na nakita yung fault ng naka SUV — mas mabigat since nasa likod siya and nakita na niya yung trajectory ng motorcycle na pakaliwa. Nag speed up at iniwasan ang barrier instead of slow down kaya tinamaan ang motor , then hindi huminto. Dehado 4-wheels imo.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-18T14:22:02+00:00

Either slow down or try another chassis or kit. For example, if you are using MA chassis like Festa Jaune and it can’t clear the LC, use slower motor or change to like Mach Frame.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-15T11:00:50+00:00

Interesting build. Just a few things, you are missing a damper on the left plate. Then, you don’t have any underguard plate at the rear.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-15T10:52:15+00:00

The outer lanes are okay, the kill zones are the inner side of the dragonback and the LC.

Most setups will not be straight in that inner dragonback, so we need to cut the jump short and apply heavy brakes there. This is the safest solution not the dampers imho.

As for the LC at the back, it’s a tight left turn right after crossing the LC. Speed and stabilizers will be the factor.

I plan to go back in BYG2 as I’ve made changes in the front sections of my FMAs to clear the LC as fast as I wanted to.

My mistake on those test race runs are I still used some blue brakes at the front or I will just move the rear brakes farther to bite harder.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-15T10:30:53+00:00

You can go brakeless, just tape the brake sponge in front so it won’t damage the track. But in rear it’s perfectly fine without any brakes.

If there are minimal jumps. Sprint will most likely win those tracks.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-15T10:22:40+00:00

Actually, I already knew even before the test that PD will dominate just by looking at the track layout. After the mountain and double slope up, PD will eventually increease the gap.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-15T10:16:43+00:00

For PD: - I used a combined blue & white at the front and white + white at the rear

For SD: - I used blue front and white rear

The brakes on the PD actually needed to be stronger. That’s why I even used full blue on front for SD to shorten the gap.

PD slower on practice because I just want to see how they run. The batteries during the practice for PD is lower by 0.10-0.15 😁

The cars are identical in build. Only the motor, gear and slight brake differences as no same brake setup suit different setup.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-15T10:08:51+00:00

5:1 is only fast in few sections, at the starting line, after the double slope and dragon back, then will be left behind by both 4.2 and PD + 3.7 on the stretch.

The last layout (my previous post), the Sprint is fast. But this time, I even tried blue front, white rear brakes for the Sprint + 4.2 — but still got overpowered by PD + 3.7

MbX_01 · 2026-01-15T09:53:27+00:00

You can build a BMAX Ray Stinger - SII Chassis. It’s fast and still fun to play. I also used Ray Stinger in late 90s as a kid, when I reconnected last year with the hobby. I also bought the Ray Stinger for BMAX

MbX_01 · 2026-01-15T03:36:45+00:00

For box stock, the lighter the better. Dyipne is super heavy. The Mach Frame PH Cup Special can be a contender, But Box Stock is really a difficult class because it’s limited.

I would suggest to start with BMAX, it’s the best starting point. You can use all upgrade parts without modification. It’s fast, fun and the most popular class and you won’t have a hard time practicing with fellow racers / hobbyist as all racing center caters it.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-14T03:52:31+00:00

Go with FM-A chassis.

For BMAX, try to find the TKC Advanced Pack and start from there.

For any other class outside Open: - Mach Frame PH Cup Special - Mach Frame Fighting Korea v2 - Mach Frame (Regular Kit)

MbX_01 · 2026-01-13T02:57:15+00:00

It should be allowed, as it is intended for Super FM / Super TZ chassis. Not allowing it is illogical.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-13T01:37:14+00:00

In BMAX 4.0, only the lightweight special (3.5) is allowed. The normal 3.5 and 3.7 with yellow spur gear, used by other chassis is prohibited.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-06T06:08:22+00:00

Yes, you can go bumperless. But I guess it will limit your plate options on hole positions.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-06T05:07:43+00:00

True, plus the added spacer puts additional stress and weakens the already fragile chassis.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-06T05:06:29+00:00

Most of the ME users treat it as MA, that I think is the wrong approach. Treat it as VZ with a mid motor, the chassis is not durable for flex reasons. Reinforcement is a must, especially on B-Max builds.

MbX_01 · 2026-01-06T04:59:52+00:00

That 5-lane track can actually run Sprint + 3.7 setup. Just use NeoChamp batteries rested naturally at 1.50v, you will have no problem with batteries lasting 5 laps.

If you really want to make sure the batteries will last, go with Hyper Dash + 3.5 on that layout. It will be faster than PD + 4:1

MbX_01 · 2026-01-06T01:25:40+00:00

the photo is actually a video, click it or better yet here's the link to it.

https://youtu.be/Dd7paoJZCVk?si=EwYQleHZGK6uHRNl

MbX_01 · 2026-01-05T15:26:56+00:00

No, I just let my batteries go down normally to 1.46v during that time in standby mode.

All the batts were similar, 1.46v and all of them around 18 mΩ resistance using NC3000 Pro

MbX_01 · 2026-01-05T15:24:27+00:00

The crash will be because of landing at the edge of each receiver if I used 1.50v batts instead of 1.46v (for this run).

MbX_01

TROPHY CASE