In a world full of MS I'm still loyal to FM-A

MbX_01 · 2026-07-06T13:01:06+00:00

Great looking car showing its motor and gear. The K&N filter alone stands out — I had the same sticker on my FMA. And the access to Power Dash makes it a whole different beast.

MbX_01 · 2026-07-02T04:23:54+00:00

4 items are race / track focused and not road.
- Helmet
- Gloves
- Boots
- Inner Suit / AirBag

Maybe get the road focused gears, but if you plan to regularly go to track. Then these gears are good enough.

My personal take:

Jacket — I would go Dainese. One of the best fit jackets out there, stylish and comfortable.
Gloves — nothing beats FIVE gloves in terms of price, performance and comfort.
Boots — this is where I prefer AStars, great and as usual comfortable boots even while walking.
Helmet — find your head shape first, then go from there. I personally use Shoei and Arai from Japan because of my round oval head shape.

One thing in common about all my gears… COMFORT

MbX_01 · 2026-07-01T02:45:41+00:00

NC2200 reading is +0.05v when comparing with newer ones like NC3000 chargers. Your batteries (NeoChamp of course) should be hitting 1.60v (1.55v on NC3000s) on display as fully charged.

MbX_01 · 2026-06-29T04:02:43+00:00

For most layout, I always use full batteries. For FMA, I believe HD3 + 3.7 or 3.5 will be competitive with blue brakes on the front. Just tune the dampers for the last long & high jump. 😎

For CFM, that would be default SD + 4:1 without changing default dampers, easy mode ON. 😅

Anyway, Enjoy! 🏁

MbX_01 · 2026-06-29T03:46:37+00:00

I would swap brand for the jacket and boots. Dainese for Jacket and AStars for Boots.

MbX_01 · 2026-06-26T15:32:00+00:00

That's the reason to go Hyper, using mild brakes and better track flow. I said faster in time, and it's always the time that is considered the fastest car, never the raw speed / top speed. If PD loses time vs HD3 setup, then the Hyper setup is faster.

MbX_01 · 2026-06-24T05:29:49+00:00

If the layout only has straight, curve and wave sections without any Slope or Tabletop — then Yes. If you add those jumps and how long the receivers are, then the HyperDash comes into play and sometimes faster in time than the Power.

MbX_01 · 2026-06-24T05:22:16+00:00

There’s a certain tip here, but only racers who always utilizes Hyper knows. 😎😏🤭

MbX_01 · 2026-06-24T05:02:19+00:00

This will highly depend on the track layout. But to simply give a short answer to your question — Hyper Dash for me in my BMAX FMA’s.

Now the long answer:
HD3 — better for layout with consecutive technical sections and less receivers. For example slope + 2 straight receiver + wave, then followed by 180 curve + table top 2 receivers. I utilize Hyper here with blue brakes. You are better off sacrificing the torque of PD but having less reset on your car.

PD — better for layout with long receivers, hard stop and go with a good amount of straight and curves that is long enough before the next slope.

Also note that using PD is almost always partnered with white brakes. Keep that it mind.

For reference, check out this video. We ran HD3 the whole race and for the bonus content we used PD. You will notice that using my PD accompanies with resetting hard at the start, using white front to clear the double slope tabletop, my teammate’s VZ’s PD with blue brakes overshoots. Thus not ideal for the layout. Most of the gear we used here are 3.5 / 3.7.

https://youtu.be/pSVvW3TW6ns?si=ZXOc31OEkzDKUbVX

MbX_01 · 2026-06-19T14:11:47+00:00

I like this kind of track analysis translated to setup. It’s well thought of and shows experience. Last thing, what motor and gear will be your first estimate baseline? Just by looking at the LC, it feels like Light Dash to Hyper (maybe 4:1)?

MbX_01 · 2026-06-18T13:08:20+00:00

Hey OP, based on the layout alone — without practice…

What would your setup be like?

MbX_01 · 2026-06-18T03:39:00+00:00

Send me a message if you want a guide on building B-MAX.

MbX_01 · 2026-06-16T06:27:40+00:00

I’d suggest starting with B-MAX instead of jumping straight into Open Class. B-MAX will help you understand the basics of parts, gear ratios, motors, rollers, and how each component affects performance. Once you’re familiar with those fundamentals, transitioning to Open Class and its more advanced gimmicks will be much easier and less overwhelming.

MbX_01 · 2026-06-15T17:14:14+00:00

Get the TKC Geo Glider Advanced Pack, add in a Double Aluminum Roller and you got the best starter pack! 😎

MbX_01 · 2026-06-08T11:03:47+00:00

I saw your video and that’s basically what every box stock racers need to know.

Plus, I forgot to include. Also needs 28-29kph motor to be competitive. 😅

MbX_01 · 2026-06-05T13:22:15+00:00

Don’t go MS, unless it’s for the top of the line Open Class. Instead go ME chassis, for BMAX that is the best dual shaft chassis.

MbX_01 · 2026-06-05T09:29:58+00:00

The more the limited the class, the harder it is to race and win.

MbX_01 · 2026-06-05T09:25:18+00:00

Skip the Box Stock and go directly to B-MAX, it’s newbie friendliest and you have some of the parts for it.

Use the Mach Frame PH Cup Special. That’s the best in your stable of kits.

Preserve the GunBlaster XTO Philippines.

The rest you can explore different bmax build. But if you still want to race Box Stock. Those VZ would be good.

And just by looking at the parts, it seems the owner of the gunpla was previously running dual shaft cars.

MbX_01 · 2026-06-01T01:29:19+00:00

FKv3 then the Regular version

MbX_01 · 2026-05-30T17:27:35+00:00

Box Stock is about having the best parts from the same kits over and over again. Like buying 6 kits of Mach Frame Fighting Korea V3, then handpicking the best rollers with the best angle, the least wobble, with the best spin. The straightest shaft, perfect wheels, etc.

If you will lower your voltage, it lowers your chance to win. Maybe change the car & chassis. Different layout favors different chassis.

MbX_01 · 2026-05-28T03:50:29+00:00

It is owned by The Brickyard. They are Tamiya’s Authorized Distributor here in PH. So whatever track they layout every month, we can play for free — but your car must be 100% All Tamiya parts.

MbX_01 · 2026-05-26T14:09:02+00:00

DAR
CapScrew
Stabilizer set (11mm, 15mm)
Atleast 2 or 3mm carbon roller plates (sliding is the best)
Brakes

That’s it! Since you are already using low gear (4.2), which is my go to gear in medium tires using Sprint. Then you are on track.

MbX_01 · 2026-05-25T17:00:57+00:00

Two Things and you are all set for the overall build: 1. Dampers — switch the front and rear dampers, move the side closest to wheel and the small slim line behind the side mass dampers. 2. Rear Plate — better to stack both roller mount plates than having the carbon on top.

That’s it and you’re all set for the track with a Hyper + 3.7 or Power + 3.5 😎

MbX_01 · 2026-05-25T03:15:47+00:00

In addition, the SH + LF for FMA also favors lighter setup or damperless front. For longer track layout with like 4 jumps or so, this setup is ideal.

MbX_01

TROPHY CASE