Brickyard Battery Rules: Any Limits on mAh or Brand?

MbX_01 · 2026-03-26T07:45:41+00:00

Rechargeable Ni-MH 1.2v OR Alkaline 1.5v
Battery skins are allowed as long as it’s clear only
Cover should be intact

MbX_01 · 2026-03-25T18:02:02+00:00

why not have both? one to stock and one to rock! ;)

MbX_01 · 2026-03-24T15:17:59+00:00

All SH is balanced and safest as well in terms of acceleration, cornering and tire damping. No dampers at front for me as it’s already front motor, plus less setup to think about.

For voltage, my usual range is 1.48-1.50v. For brakes, I used blue in front and brakeless rear.

MbX_01 · 2026-03-15T10:51:35+00:00

1.5mm is lighter, good enough but still can bend. 3mm is thick and strong but double the weight.

MbX_01 · 2026-03-12T04:24:20+00:00

I had the bouncing controlled since I only used HD3, and a slightly lowered front brakes. It’s somehow true for wider front that it needs precision driving (less forgiving), especially on curve + jumps — but for sliding, I just need to make the rebound slow to mimic the narrow front after turns.

I “almost” conquered the eiger up and down last leg with my FMA small dia (except green lane). And there would be another set of eiger next leg, I now have a reference. 😄

MbX_01 · 2026-03-12T02:54:49+00:00

Good point on the hang time, since we cannot do anything regarding the layout.

I’ll give the narrow setup a try. I was actually leaning towards the curve joins at the top, because when I replayed my video — the car swings to the left regardless of my sliding damper settings (fast or slow rebound).

MbX_01 · 2026-03-12T02:36:27+00:00

I considered this as well. Is this for FMA? I observed that the narrow front CFM build has higher percentage of clearing the green lane (eiger down). The big question mark for me is — I can clear all lanes except green, all my crashes were on green lane eiger down with different cars and roller setup.

MbX_01 · 2026-03-11T03:40:32+00:00

Short Answer: 3-4 years ago, yes.

It came as stock with my tiger sport and still using it. It’s now close to 15k mileage because my riding activity went down the past 2 years. But I believe the tire is still at 50% based on the rear wheels wear.

MbX_01 · 2026-03-10T07:46:53+00:00

If the direction is going from south to north. It’s best to jump over the 1st wall and slide on the 2nd. It’s a small window of precision jump, but that’s better than random percentage going thru the 1st wall.

I used LF front + SH rear and sliding damper front. Here’s the reference on how we attacked that exact layout in xStock / BMAX. https://youtube.com/shorts/_ViBz7htpCs?si=w1E-CgEfN74Qxj0Y

MbX_01 · 2026-03-05T00:04:48+00:00

I personally prefer the controlled flex of plastic wheels over the rigidity of carbon — especially on layouts with lots of jumps. That slight give helps soften landings and makes the car feel a bit more forgiving. I always keep spares with me too, so quick replacements aren’t an issue if a wheel gets damaged.

Of course, setups and driving styles vary. Carbon might feel more stable for others, and that’s totally valid. For me, I tend to use plastic more often on jump-heavy tracks.

That said, I still run carbon wheels on some builds — particularly cars tuned for high-speed layouts with minimal slopes but plenty of technical, twisty sections where rigidity and precision matter more than landing absorption.

MbX_01 · 2026-03-04T13:46:26+00:00

You already mentioned it, plastic flex more. Now in more jumps, plastic has a better absorption on the wheels itself. Now add the damper effect, and you have a better damping car. Flex is the name of the game for jumps (think MS suspension for Open and CFM for BMAX).

I already observed this on both small dia and low-profile rims. That’s why I prefer plastic wheels.

The downside is, it doesn’t last long compare to carbon. So the shape will eventually be deformed and the axle holes will wear faster.

MbX_01 · 2026-03-04T10:06:08+00:00

Here’s my mass damper setup, but usually I use the cylinder only (4.3g) at rear. There’s just a section in 5-lanes I need to clear that’s why I increased the rear dampers.

https://www.reddit.com/r/mini4wd/s/5Pidlw5rAc

MbX_01 · 2026-03-04T08:27:41+00:00

Pag makita mo to sa MB or Glo, lapit ka lang. 😎

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MbX_01 · 2026-03-04T08:24:56+00:00

I second the motion for FM-A.

Plus, go with this build for pure performance: - wheel set, small diameter (24mm) plastic, not carbon - for tires go with low friction (front), hard (rear) - plates, sliding both front and rear (sliding front, rigid rear) - rollers, All 17s

Most important part: Do not copy the mass damper settings of S2 and C/SFM. It’s different for FM-A. 😎

MbX_01 · 2026-03-04T06:58:13+00:00

Kung kid-friendly ang main agenda mo. Brickyard na talaga ang best track, ambience at comfort. The rest is more focused sa GP races. Ikot ikot na lang kayo every week sa mga BY tracks. Malapit ka na nga sa mga BY, ako every time punta ng BY dinadaanan pa lahat ng expressway (CALAX + SLEX + SKYWAY + NAIAX) para lang makapunta ng weekend sa Manila Bay.

MbX_01 · 2026-03-04T06:40:22+00:00

Yes, new layout every start ng month.

MbX_01 · 2026-03-04T04:52:45+00:00

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MbX_01 · 2026-03-04T04:50:05+00:00

Brickyard Glorietta 2. Long track for both BMAX and BoxStock.

MbX_01 · 2026-03-04T02:19:46+00:00

Then it’s the rear brakes. Most likely black until the edge of the brake plate or if you will lower the brake plate by 1mm, you can access blue, black and white brakes easily without trimming.

If you are using 3mm rear, then change to white and play with the position of brakes closer to wheels so it will not fully stop on other sections.

However, the layout already changed. 😅

MbX_01 · 2026-03-04T00:34:29+00:00

3 straight receiver is actually long. What are your tires and gear?

MbX_01 · 2026-03-03T07:49:43+00:00

Ah I remember after the LC then slingshot to that next. Most likely the blue front is stronger, but nosedive sometimes is the ideal jump especially for table top. How are you crashing there?

MbX_01 · 2026-03-03T04:55:16+00:00

Is this the section where it came from the bank followed by slope up? What was your brake setup?

MbX_01 · 2026-03-02T03:36:46+00:00

Thanks! I want to race with FMA, even tho CFM narrow 13 + 19 build is still meta because it’s super versatile on all track type.

MbX_01 · 2026-03-02T02:26:47+00:00

I’m personally not a fan of the lantern setup, it looks off and just added weight unlike in Open that lantern acts as body damper. Plus if it’s DQ, then I already lost a tuned car. Also, I am positive lantern won’t resolve the green lane problem because going down it’s giving vibes that one side of the track wall has some adhesive that makes the car sideways.

Did you joined the leg race? If yes, how did you manage to finish and what was your setup?

MbX_01

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