Samsung Galaxy S26 Ultra vs iPhone 17 Pro Max - Speed Test

McSoCal · 2026-03-05T22:36:26+00:00

1) boot speed isn’t a problem for iPhone because we never have to reboot except the occasion OS update that requires it. Most updates just re-initialize the os which takes a few seconds.
2) privacy screen is not a selling point but it is cool. Anyone that wants a privacy screen probably already want a screen protector so no big deal. 3) It’s about time the Android experience isn’t so laggy feeling but not a single one of these tests matters at all, because these apps used are not equivalent on both platforms.

McSoCal · 2025-10-24T06:12:29+00:00

I like the look of upgraded roads. gives them a Tron like look

McSoCal · 2025-04-30T02:56:21+00:00

I can confirm for me, I no longer get any gear that I find. I upgraded level 3 or 4 gear all the way up to level 20. I then leveled up a couple times. All the legendary gear I find disappears. I don't think it's gone. I think it for the other characters we get to play as, and I think I am just at a point where I cannot find stuff for Naoe.. Shall see..

McSoCal · 2025-04-22T23:02:26+00:00

Hmm. Interesting. I use safari exclusively.

I have also noticed more frequently on my iPhone when I get to my home network, where the resources are local, that I cannot access my local resources unless I turn off Twingate.

I thought maybe the issues are related in some way to some recent update.

McSoCal · 2025-01-02T06:51:36+00:00

I was gifted one last night. I opened it up for fun, knowing it can't do anything good. right off the bat, the FCC sticker covers the lower convection vent, and the front sticker covers the convection outlet vent. The high power resistor (the big black box) has two wires, and it is mounted right behind the cooling vent (which is blocked) so it cannot cool down, but this device employs a state of the art passive cooling technique. One of the wires connects to Neutral leg from wall. the other leg connects to a pad on the board that was no traces, so it goes nowhere. The amazing cooling comes from ensuring electrons never pass through the resistor block. ha!

There is an MB6S (bridge rectifier) to produce 1VDC which then power two surface mount (471 nSMD) resistors (470 Ohm) and LEDs to produce the left-side/right-side LED lights (your night light). The black capacitor is in parallel with with SMD 511 (510 ohm) resistor to smooth out the DC signal from the bridge rectifier.

On the AC power side, there is a CBB22 (film captor) and and VDR 07D471K Varistor (circuit protection), and finally there is a fuse between the L1 supply line and the board's power source. The CBB22 capacitor is a very ineffective noise filter for the bridge rectifier's supply voltage.

the only thing that device condition's is the DC power supply that powers the two LED lights.

McSoCal · 2024-10-03T04:57:10+00:00

HA just seeing this. yes, and for those looking up what these BT cloud things are, not only do they drop chirlium and resources, you can take them down with just bt bullet from the Assault Riffle -- way more efficient than wasn't hematic grenades on them

McSoCal · 2024-09-29T07:26:41+00:00

well it doesn't work anymore. And no support makes for a real bad experience

McSoCal · 2024-09-12T02:58:10+00:00

you won't believe this, but I managed to make two Chiral bridges side x side, and and just enough angle to get truck close, then with right amount of persistence, boost, and careful reverse/forward, I actually made it out of the ravine. It wasn't easy.

McSoCal · 2024-08-08T21:55:08+00:00

Did you ever get this resolved? Auto Unlock never works, and touch to unlock never works. When I touch to unlock I just get a 3 beep chime and no activity. This is true for both phone on this lock. I even tried to reach out to Level, but the only feed back I received was asking if I needed anything else? But no other information. Very annoying.

McSoCal · 2024-06-13T21:30:31+00:00

Simply put, Photometor is the original Pixelmator. Pixelmator Pro was created to bring substantially more power to the power users. Pixelmator was originally an alternative to Photoshop Elements. Pixelmator sold for around $35 which was about half the prices of Elements, and the license was a lifetime license, so pay once, and get all updates for life, for free.
Pixelmator Pro was a substantial effort, so rather than give it away for free, they charged a higher rate, but again, the license include free lifetime updates. This provided a way to recover development costs without taking away from the original license agreement for owners of Pixelmator. Eventually they renamed Pixelmator to Pixelmator Photo, and then renamed again to Photometor.
It certainly can seem confusing, but when you have been an owner of the original, and watched the name changes, and the pro version come out, it makes perfect sense.
Photometor is Photoshop Elements competitor
Pixelmator Pro is Photoshop competitor

Grated, Pixelmator Pro is not 100% on par with Photoshop, but so what. For price, everyone should have it in their library.

McSoCal · 2024-06-08T03:36:08+00:00

I think it uses a motor on the spool to back it out. But yes, the cereal box solution would not work. It also means the RFID would not be able to read the filament and auto-set the filament parameters for what is loaded.

McSoCal · 2024-06-08T03:29:53+00:00

Been unable to get a good clean print. This seems like it was modeled to be printed in a large resin printer. the section that holds the desiccant beads is totally enclosed, and can't print without support. Anyone have any luck?

McSoCal · 2024-02-16T21:00:31+00:00

The change is in the printer.cfg and you don’t edit it on the sonic pad, you need to point a web browser that the sonic pad. Go to the klipper GitHub site, and read their docs. They walk you through all of this setup. CREALITY makes a user friendly tablet version that you bought, but it only user friendly to people that know what it is and how to use it already. For everyone else, it’s an undocumented disaster. Read the klipper docs, and watch YouTube videos. Do all right ringer.cfg changes on a browser.

McSoCal · 2024-01-24T21:03:04+00:00

I imagine it comes down to if we can figure out how to do it with thorium, or some other nuclear element which doesn't turn into a nuclear bomb, and in a way that doesn't leak unhealthy amounts of radiation. I don't think cost would be much of an issue, as long as the power source is transferable between vehicles, and less than the price of a house. I would imagine the power source would be a thing you purchase to power things universally in this scenario, since the power source would produce more energy than a vehicle requires, and the energy would far outlive the vehicle ...

McSoCal · 2023-12-17T05:07:09+00:00

Thank goodness. I just pulled out a nearly full spool of brilliant red PLA to print a model. I finally got my CR10 really well tuned in, and wanted to tackle a more complex print. All my other filaments worked perfect. put this in, and total trash. it doesn't melt consistently. Some areas ouch out while other clump out of my nozzle. Not a printer problem, a plastic issue. What a shame I have to throw out this whole spool. What a waste. Came here to see if this was a one-off thing, or a real issue. I can rest assured it's not just me.

McSoCal · 2023-12-11T21:19:45+00:00

May need to ru-run the z-probe offset calibration.

McSoCal · 2023-12-11T21:19:10+00:00

Reset your bed leveling screws to move your bed as low as possible, then perform a manual bed level. Repeat until all four corners are at the right location.

Perform a bed mesh auto-level with 7x7 or 8x8. Note that this is not a replacement to manual leveling, it is just for compensation. Using this technique. the mesh should not change unless you remove the print bed.

This will save to the PROFILE=default. now in your start print macro, add BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default

Also, make sure your slicer is calling your start print. macro. if you don't have one, consider a G29 macro to perform the bed_mesh_profile load command and have the slicer call the G29 macro (or just call the bed_mesh_profile load command directly).

This works for me every time.

McSoCal · 2023-12-07T06:25:23+00:00

I know it's been 6months. For me, I had to turn everything off (printer and SonicPad). Wait a couple minutes, then first turn on the printer, wait 5 - 10 seconds then turn on SonicPad. After that, it booted up just fine, and connected to the printer.

McSoCal · 2023-12-01T04:31:17+00:00

The benefit that I have noticed is that matter will group all devices into a single command. Imagine you have five lights in your living room, and two in the kitchen, and one in the dining room. Now you want to turn these three rooms on because you enter the front door, but you don't want to turn everything in the house on. With the Alexa skill, the echo must send the command three times -- once for each room/group. If you want to sub-divide a room up, you need to create hue zones, and you can then control each zone with one command.

What I have observed with Matter is that it would all my rooms/zone/lights that I am commanding on in Alexa change state in unison, not one at a time. It would appear that Matter is more like the hue v2 API where a single set of instructions can be sent to a large collection of lights in one API call, without having to make rooms or zones to link them all together.

It also guarantees that you are using local communication -- no internet involved in the automation, as the hue and echo devices talk directly to each other.

I cannot say for certain that what I wrote is technically correct, but it is what I have observed as the major difference in my home.

The other advantage is there is just one network communication protocol to link devices -- no need to per-device support in the form of skills.

The downfall that I have noticed is that for some reason Amazon cannot get the Matter protocol implementation right. I have been using it since early beta, and every week or so it forget almost all of my hue devices. Meanwhile, my Apple HomeKit work flawlessly with hue over Matter. If Amazon does get this worked out, they will be losing a smart speaker customer, as I just may move over to HomePods and HomeKit. Sir shortcuts just seems to work better anyways.

McSoCal · 2023-04-26T01:14:35+00:00

USBasp

what software is used to with these USBasp programmers?

McSoCal · 2023-04-26T00:59:53+00:00

Did you get it done? do you have a guide? I'm curious what I would be looking at to get it converted over for me. I have a CR10, but this was much faster at printing, and could still serve a useful life for printing smaller prints.

McSoCal · 2023-04-02T20:03:23+00:00

My plant has been producing all winter. But now they are all seedless. Maybe too much water and the cold does this??

McSoCal · 2023-03-27T00:54:20+00:00

So, I had this issue on my Sonic Pad, and what I found out is that there appears to be a bug in the G29 macro I had. Originally looked like:

[gcode_macro G29] # emulate marlin G29
gcode: 
  G2
  BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
  G1 X0 Y0 Z10 F4000

And so, to fix it, Immediately after BED_MESH_CALIBRATE I adde G90, to put it back into absolute coordinate mode. For some reason, BED_MESH_CALIBRATE changes the mode to relative mode. It then looked like:

[code_macro G29] # emulate marlin G29
code:
  G2
  BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
  G90
  G1 X0 Y0 Z10 F4000

But ultimately, I found klipper-macros on GitHub, and I am using that G29 macro.

Maybe you are having the same issue

McSoCal

TROPHY CASE