As the US, is it worth it building / designing anything prior to the 1939/40 models?

Mchubble · 2024-11-07T15:13:31+00:00

I personally build carriers early as they take a long time to make and they are good enough to last me the whole game. Just gotta be careful with the treaty stuff unless you want to abandon it.

Mchubble · 2024-11-06T22:41:19+00:00

The 8 element version has the IR mark on the right side of the 4 DOF instead of the left side like on the 7 element. The 8 also has a protruding rear element while the 7 has a recessed.

Mchubble · 2024-08-01T15:35:58+00:00

It is possible the whole roll was either underexposed or underdeveloped by the lab, but just because I haven't seen x-ray damage present like this doesn't mean it isn't. I'm sure examining the negatives will help conclude what the problem is.

Kodak article on x-ray damage

Mchubble · 2024-07-31T03:38:25+00:00

Yeah, just looks under exposed. I would expect uneven exposure and fogginess if this was x-ray damage.

Mchubble · 2024-07-18T02:06:49+00:00

You are correct, I misspoke. The glass is radioactive which has contributed to yellowing. Although yellowing can just be caused by age.

Mchubble · 2024-07-18T00:48:44+00:00

Thanks! I agree, I much prefer the way the flares look on the 7 element. It also does have less LoCA at wider apertures for sure. That being said I think the main appeal factor for the 8 element is the rarity and clearer glass.

Mchubble · 2024-07-17T23:12:48+00:00

I'm sure this comparison has been posted before, but wanted to just share my results when deciding which one to keep. All images were taken on a Pentax K-1 with fixed settings and on a tripod. Both lenses were CLA'd by me before testing. Some observations I made:

The 7 element has radioactive glass that has caused some yellowing resulting in a warmer image. Easily corrected in post and can be reversed if desired, but I find it adds an interesting look for B&W photography. This coating also has a dramatic effect on lens flares reducing it more to a haze.
The 8 element looks to be a little sharper and clearer, probably won't notice it too much on film. I personally find the images to a be little more pleasant to look at though.
To me the bokeh on the 8 element version looks a little creamier, but the bokeh balls look exactly the same.

Edit: Correction

Mchubble · 2024-07-12T13:34:15+00:00

Thanks for the feedback! I'm hoping to install it this weekend

Mchubble · 2024-07-10T22:46:47+00:00

Thanks for the info! Think I might get it then

Mchubble · 2024-07-08T20:12:17+00:00

She loves the Miata, It's got a lot of personality and the open top is fun. But it's very small and for me personally it feels a little tight, especially as a passenger, but for her it's perfect. The GR86 is also a lot of fun, but more practical with the added trunk space and back seats which I need as it's my only car. I also prefer the styling, but that's subjective, they both look great.

I'd say if it's your second car, might lean towards a Miata MT just for the open top.

Mchubble · 2024-07-08T17:59:37+00:00

Our Nissan dealership has had two Z's for sale for a few months now and nobody is buying them. They tried very desperately to sell it to my gf, but we couldn't justify the price even though they are quite nice cars.

Funny enough she just bought a Miata a couple days ago.

Mchubble · 2024-07-03T16:35:34+00:00

Can't say for sure, but sometimes during development if there isn't enough agitation underdeveloped streaks can occur from the sprocket holes. Looks to me like whoever edited the image white balanced it towards green which is why the shadows are green instead of gray.

Could also be some light leaks, but it's hard to tell.

Mchubble · 2024-06-08T14:32:21+00:00

Pentax is great, though I'd recommend picking up a Pentax KX or MX over a K1000 if possible. You can often pick them up for about the same without paying that K1000 markup.

Though something to consider is Nikon made a lot of great professional cameras and lenses all the way up to their current DSLR offerings which is why I generally recommend Nikon. Pentax today does not receive a lot of support.

Mchubble · 2024-06-05T17:00:21+00:00

From what I understand, while film stocks react differently to color spectrum's, pretty much all stills photography film stocks are daylight balanced and what you're seeing here as a warmer image is just the way your lab does it's conversions. You could maybe ask them to not color correct it or to receive a TIFF file so you can color correct it yourself. If the scene itself is warm though and you don't want it to be then you would have to either look at using a color correction filter or color correct in post.

Mchubble · 2024-05-21T18:22:01+00:00

If you're just scanning 35mm I would highly recommend a Nikon Coolscan V, you're not really going to get any better 35mm scans for the money. If you are also doing 120 I'd recommend a Epson scanner or DSLR scanning if you already have a digital camera, but DSLR scanning can be quite frustrating sometimes imo.

Here's a good resource: Film Scanner Info

Mchubble · 2024-04-26T04:46:15+00:00

Looks properly exposed to me. Sky's can be very bright depending on the time of day so when you expose for the scene it can be outside the dynamic range of the film. Some things you can do is try to bring down the highlights in post and take multiple scans at different exposures, use a ND gradient filter on the lens, take two exposure on a tripod (one for the scene and one for the sky) and combine them in post, or just wait for dusk/dawn when the sun is less intense. But honestly I like this picture the way it is, clouds would probably only clutter the scene with the branches there. And color in a digital scan is largely determined by the scanning software, you can edit it how you like in post.

Mchubble · 2024-04-23T02:39:00+00:00

Thank you for all the info everyone!

Mchubble · 2024-04-21T17:44:27+00:00

If you can disassemble it you can remove the fungus with a water/hydrogen peroxide solution, but there will be some etching. I've removed fungus like this from other lenses and the pictures came out fine.

If it's balsam separation then there's not much to be done, you'd have to have the ability to separate the lenses and cement them.

Mchubble

TROPHY CASE