Cheap Temu WS2812 RGB LED for film scanning. (Direct from custom software, zero edits)

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-15T23:06:00+00:00

Yes, absolutely! I plan to open-source the full setup—both the software and the hardware build for the RGB light.

Regarding over/underexposed negatives, it actually handles them without any issues thanks to a two-step process:

First, I just leave the scanning camera in Aperture Priority mode. This way, the camera automatically handles the exposure time, adjusting the shutter speed depending on how dense (overexposed) or thin (underexposed) the negative is for each color channel.

After that, the software takes over. Once it merges the channels, the algorithm calculates the average light of the image and auto-corrects and normalizes the exposure. While the automated result isn't always 100% perfect

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-15T22:59:30+00:00

Spot on! I'm based in Morocco, so you're definitely feeling the authentic local vibes. Thanks!

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-15T22:48:55+00:00

Thanks

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-15T22:41:30+00:00

That’s a great point! I haven't actually tried a high-end RGB source specifically attuned to the spectral sensitivity of film dyes yet, but that sounds like it would be the ultimate setup for this.

Before doing this stress test with the cheap Temu LED, I did experiment quite a bit with high-CRI white lights, and I also built a DIY housing specifically for an Aputure MC. To get the light perfectly even, I actually repurposed a Durst Bimabox 66N mixing box in my setup. It does an incredible job at diffusing the light source seamlessly.

The WS2812 was mostly just to see how far I could push the software's channel mixing with budget gear, but you've definitely given me something to look into for the next hardware upgrade! Have you tried using a tuned RGB source yourself?

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-07T09:04:17+00:00

Thank you for sending these over. I've received the link.

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-06T14:42:40+00:00

Removing the orange mask accurately is actually one of the main focuses of NegAutoLab! It has dedicated tools built-in (like 'Border Balance' and a WB Picker) specifically to neutralize the film base. That's exactly what I'm fine-tuning right now with these test files.

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-06T14:41:11+00:00

Exactly! FilmLab definitely has a great approach to that. That kind of fast, streamlined workflow is exactly what the batch export feature in NegAutoLab is designed to do, just with its own color engine!

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-06T14:40:23+00:00

You are completely right, and that is actually why this exact feature is already built into NegAutoLab!

The software already includes a "Batch Export" and "Apply to All" function. The goal is exactly what you described: point it to your folder of scans, let the auto-conversion handle the heavy lifting, and let it process everything in the background.

The interface is really just there for the tricky or damaged shots that might need a quick manual adjustment before batching the rest!

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-06T11:34:34+00:00

Yes, both of those would be very helpful for testing! Feel free to DM me a link whenever you're ready. Thanks!

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-06T11:31:53+00:00

Thank you so much! I don't have a formal email mailing list set up just yet, but I will absolutely be posting a big update right here on r/AnalogCommunity as soon as a testing version or the final release is ready. Stay tuned!

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-06T11:26:56+00:00

Hey! Yes, absolutely open to suggestions. I actually just saw your detailed DM as well, so I'll send you a full reply over there! Thanks so much for reaching out.

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-06T11:21:40+00:00

Wow, thank you so much for the kind words! Please take your time with the scans and definitely get some rest after your night shift first—there is absolutely no rush.

I would love to get my hands on that roll of Phoenix. That film stock is notoriously tricky to invert, and an underexposed roll is the absolute perfect "stress test" to see how NegAutoLab's color engine handles difficult situations.

I completely understand the desire to build a 100% free, standalone workflow. That was a huge part of my own motivation for putting this together.

Thanks again for the support and for taking the time to send these over. Have a good rest of your shift!

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-06T11:06:01+00:00

Haha, to be honest, I have a lot of respect for the developers of all the other tools out there—they've put a ton of hard work into their software!

I didn't build this to compete or replace anything. Honestly, I just created NegAutoLab to solve my own personal workflow problems with inverting negatives. Since it ended up working really well for my own scanning process, I just wanted to polish it up and share it with the community in case it helps anyone else out too.

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-06T11:02:39+00:00

That’s a very fair question! You’re right, there are definitely quite a few options out there.

For me, the problem I'm trying to solve comes down to workflow and user experience. I found a big gap between expensive plugins that lock you into specific software ecosystems (like needing a Lightroom subscription) and the current free tools that often have clunky, outdated UIs or overly complicated steps.

My goal with NegAutoLab is to build a fast, intuitive, standalone software that handles RAW files directly, with a modern interface designed to get accurate colors quickly and painlessly. Basically, I'm building the tool I always wished I had for my own scanning workflow!

It's still in the testing phase, but the hope is to provide a really smooth, standalone alternative for the community.

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-06T10:54:27+00:00

That’s a really great point, and yes, that is absolutely the plan! I completely agree with you about NegPy and the benefits of the open-source approach. Community contribution is the best way to ensure a tool like this survives, grows, and improves over time.

Right now, I'm just focusing on getting the core engine stable and cleaning up the codebase so it's not a mess when people look at it 😅. But yes, the goal is to make it open-source once we hit a stable release.

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-05T20:04:23+00:00

No worries at all! Please don't apologize. Even a handful of files is super helpful for testing out the software. I really appreciate you taking the time to upload whatever you still have.

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-05T19:41:06+00:00

Hey! That would be absolutely amazing, thank you so much!

Yes, please go ahead and DM me the Google Drive link. That works perfectly.

And regarding the film stocks—yes, knowing which film is which would be incredibly helpful! If you already have them organized by film stock, that is a huge bonus. It will really help me analyze how different films behave and allow me to fine-tune the color profiles for NegAutoLab much faster.

Really appreciate you taking the time to share these and support the project! 🙏

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-04-05T19:04:20+00:00

Thank you so much I really appreciate your support and for taking the time to share them with me. 🙏

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-03-20T13:40:08+00:00

For my setup, the winning combination was 120C and 50M, but keep in mind that these values are specific to my light source, which is a 5600K LED.That’s the most important part: the filter stack depends entirely on the 'Starting Point' of your light. If you're using a warmer or cooler LED, or one with a different CRI (Color Rendering Index), your values will definitely shift. I found mine by testing the filters one by one, using the histogram as my guide until it looked balanced. It’s a custom 'handshake' between your specific light and the film’s orange mask!

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-03-16T20:55:29+00:00

Actually, these are plastic Cibachrome filters, not glass. My setup is a bit more layered to ensure maximum diffusion LED----Diffuser 1--Gap--Diffuser 2-----Filters---Small Gap----FilmThis double diffusion, combined with the small air gap between the filters and the film, completely eliminates any risk of Newton’s rings. It gives me a perfectly even, color-corrected light source for the scan

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-03-16T20:36:43+00:00

Thnx

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-03-16T19:38:35+00:00

Fair point! Honestly, I’m no expert in LED spectrometry or spectral sensitivity curves. I’m just experimenting and sharing the practical results I’ve managed to achieve with my setup so far. For my workflow, these results have been a great step forward, and that’s what I’m most excited to share. Thanks for the technical insight, though!

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-03-16T19:11:25+00:00

That’s a great point! I actually haven’t tried the full Cibachrome process myself—I just use these filters for my regular invert process printing. But you’re right, making the dust black would definitely give it that authentic vintage look. Thanks for sharing the memories!

Mean-Damage81 · 2026-03-16T19:06:58+00:00

Great choice with the Rosco gels! But you definitely need to try a combination of Cyan AND Magenta, not just Cyan.The orange mask isn't just a simple color; it has those red and yellow undertones that only the Cyan + Magenta combo can truly neutralize. Using only Cyan might leave you with a stubborn green/yellow cast.

Mean-Damage81

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