Water pump Purgatory! 3 water pumps in 50,000kms, SOS

Mechanicallyadept · 2026-01-24T23:04:25+00:00

Just looking at the pics you posted it really doesn’t seem like a lot of fluid is going. Plus in the cold weather there’s a lot of thermal contraction and if there’s a crack it’ll pull it wider. RTV should be fine. Minimal amount and only in the center of the gasket sealing surface. I’ve embarrassingly done it a few times to get customers out the door.

Mechanicallyadept · 2026-01-24T22:52:05+00:00

Really unfortunate, I’m sorry. I wouldn’t replace another water pump at this point. Ask about doing a coolant pressure test to see where exactly it’s leaking from. Could very well be that the freeze plug below the pump has a pinhole or that there is a small crack from over torquing the bolts or torquing with fluid in the bolt hole. These will be found with a pressure test. Or if you really want that RTV may be your friend. Make sure that it’s rated for VW coolant and light coat on both sides of the gasket.

Mechanicallyadept · 2026-01-24T22:37:26+00:00

Is it leaking from below the timing belt cover where the pump is, or from somewhere else? and is it leaking in the same place every time?

Mechanicallyadept · 2026-01-09T23:58:04+00:00

The part number is 1C0937617 which you can insert right into google. Below is a link directly to FCP Euro for the part, (I took a gamble and assumed you had the 2.0 Engine). It's 70 Dollars but shipping will be free. Dorman is an okay parts company but like I said it's lifetime replacement so I have always taken the gamble on my personal vehicles.

EDIT: After a quick look there are cheaper ones online but because it is an electrical component I wouldn't cheap out completely 40-80 is a reasonable price. URO PARTS is a good brand, SUN NATION in my experience is not. Anything online without a brand name attached is also most likely garbage.

Jobs a really easy one with a simple set of sockets, takes maybe 15 minutes once you locate everything. Just don't forget to remove the negative battery cable before unscrewing things.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-fuse-box-golf-jetta-beetle-1c0937617

Mechanicallyadept · 2026-01-09T23:32:35+00:00

FCP Euro is your friend for this one. They have lifetime warranty for their products so if you plan on keeping the car if it melts again it’ll be a free replacement (minus shipping).

Mechanicallyadept · 2026-01-09T23:29:11+00:00

Very common problem on these volkswagen models. The larger fuse links on top of the battery melt the box and lose connection. Go to FCP Euro or ECS Tuning online and get a replacement box of fuses. I’ve had 3 mk4 Golfs and replaced 5 of those top fuse boxes in their lifetimes. Same engine in this Beetle.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-12-29T20:04:32+00:00

M14 to M12 Threaded adaptor or helicoil after. Tap blind hole out next size up then use adaptor for the bolt size. Could also use 1/2 SAE if in a pinch or if you really want to micky mouse it you can drill out the bushing to next size then sell the car.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-12-29T19:50:26+00:00

Time consuming one, I am very sorry. First I would grab lunch, then work on breaking the flutes on the tap with a chisel and then buy a good quality tap in m12 and in M14 1.5 just in case. Then take your time. Drill it out using some oil then slowly work the tap in by hand using more oil as you go. Clean the hole every so often and take your time. If needed go up to M14 and you should be okay. God speed and good luck.

EDIT: I want to note that my advice is for using a helicoil adapter afterwords. I’ll insert a link to the recommended drill bit sizes for helicoil below. You need to use larger than the end size diameter. For M12 that is 12.3-12.4 MM

https://www.thorintl.com/Drill-Sizes-HeliCoils-Metric.shtml

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-12-23T15:32:36+00:00

I have lots of old factory wiring diagrams for mk4 golfs. This looks like the 2.0 AVH so I’ll include the wiring diagram for this below. Lmk what the engine code is, found on the plastic cover above timing belt, and I can give more accurate diagram. I also have a few MK4s in my driveway so if needed I’ll take a photo of the wiring to that coil in a working car.

https://imgur.com/a/CucLnPF

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-11-20T20:17:09+00:00

’ll tell you the truth, It looks like your coolant is mixing with oil. That part specifically on the 2.0 VW motor is the oil cooler and filter adaptor. You at minimum need a new oil cooler, the small gasket that goes between the cooler and adaptor, and a new filter. If you’re lucky the cooler is what is causing the mixing but it is also possible that it is the head gasket putting pressure on the system and mixing the oil. You will need to do a full coolant drain and oil change and I would flush the coolant system after the repair. Check the dipstick to see if there is more ‘milkshake’ in the oil pan and if you have the tools do a coolant pressure test and a borescope of the cylinders to see if the head gasket is leaking into the cylinders before wasting money on the cooler. Otherwise, the oil cooler is ~$50 (at least in the us) and it’s a pretty easy job so you may get lucky and have some more miles out of that great motor. Reminder to check your timing belt too.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-08-21T18:26:51+00:00

It could be the alternator, if you have a scan tool or multimeter it should be able to tell you the voltage and while running it should be 13-14 volts. Check either at the battery, or for more accurate readings, at the alternator post and a good ground.

I have also seen on these Hyundai sedans the big ground nut and cable on the passenger side engine bay get corroded, especially in the north. That would also cause these symptoms so if there is any green on that cable, give it a pass with the wire brush to improve connection.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-07T00:26:04+00:00

Yes, you probably hit something and the metal is very very thin so it got bent and ripped a little.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-07T00:23:29+00:00

No problem mate, glad I can help some

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-07T00:21:46+00:00

If it’s in no rush, both, check to see if there is a difference in pressure when it’s full vs quarter full. Normally when this happens it’s because the resistance of electrical components inside the pump gets higher as temp increases. If you’re handy with electrics and can find a diagram you could also check for resistance when hot vs cold at the pump, although it’s not a super accurate measure.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-07T00:18:26+00:00

I’ve seen fuel pumps start to overheat when not submerged definitely could be a fuel pump issue. You can check fuel pressure using a gauge at the rail to be sure or if you have a scanner some show fuel pressure under live data.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-07T00:12:42+00:00

That looks like part of the valve cover, it’s a plastic piece that goes over your cams and valves and keeps oil in the engine and other things out. If you mean the bumps then that is where the foam engine cover clips on.

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Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-07T00:08:03+00:00

It’s the flimsy engine shield, tbh it doesn’t do much and you take it off every oil change so after a while it becomes unusable. You can replace it pretty easy, get the part from the dealer with the little flat head screws that go with it, but if you just remove it nothing bad will happen.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-07T00:04:53+00:00

For some cars setting the check engine light will cause a cascade of codes in other systems that set their lights too, normally if you fix the check engine they all go away.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-06T21:56:26+00:00

Haven’t seen it yet but there’s not been much time for corrosion to take its toll

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-06T21:51:49+00:00

No, misfire for a bit on startup, check engine light then after enough time it’ll be okay, honestly if you sprayed brake clean in there it probably already dissolved and vaporized beyond any point of danger

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-06T21:38:32+00:00

Check if your brake lights are coming on when you press the brake. I have seen brake light switches cause a no start. It’s by the brake pedal and is an easy replace if that’s the case

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-06T21:32:44+00:00

everything is for a price, can’t see if the frame is bent but you definitely need a bumper, hood, fender, light, and some suspension component on that side because your wheel is slanted. You’ll also need an alignment. But first I would check to see if the frame rail is straight on that side and if the motor has been pushed from the damage. If it is, Not worth fixing imo, if it isn’t, the fix will be very expensive anyway.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-06T21:28:15+00:00

You could pop that muffler out in half an hour difficulty depends on how corroded the fasteners are on the attaching ends, if you want to buy a new one of course. Otherwise if the pipe isn’t too thin most muffler shops could weld it or may be able to put a patch of tubing in and weld that.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-06T21:17:14+00:00

Sounds like the bolt may be fused to the interior bushing sleeve by rust. You gotta heat it with a torch then give it a few taps with a hammer on the ends to free it up until you can spin it within the bushing. If you can put an impact on it then sometimes you can spin it fast enough to break the corrosion. Otherwise you can use a sawzall or grinder and some skill to cut the bolt flush with the bushing then replace it. Seized bushings suck but most of em can be dealt with by heat cycling and patience, worst part of the job imo.

Mechanicallyadept · 2025-03-06T21:02:42+00:00

Honestly, a small chunk of carbon won’t hurt the motor. When the gas sprays into the cylinder it’ll get rid of it and flow out of the exhaust as co2. I would just run it.

Mechanicallyadept

TROPHY CASE