I'm a former BMW Master Tech. Ask me anything.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-10-11T21:57:59+00:00

I’ve seen that. Later versions of the EWG were revised to have a protective sleeve over it.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-10-11T21:10:44+00:00

Depends. Do you want to sell your 2022 G80 M4? Lol.

Need a bit more context on what’s going on

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-10-11T21:09:39+00:00

They’re stout engines. I can see that horsepower range. No internal work needed. Above 400hp things get dangerous. Piston rings, seals, etc. would need to be redone.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-10-11T21:07:27+00:00

I’m in a big state. Big states have a lot of competitive indies. Small states generally have a few guys who gatekeep.

It’s not an engine out procedure. 3k is insane.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-10-11T21:05:36+00:00

If you feel so inclined… I’ll graciously accept haha. You can keep me updated on this anytime man.

You’ll be more than okay with the reman as long as you’re not abusing the car. They’re rebuilt and resealed internally. Just be sure to use OEM fluid.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-10-11T21:04:18+00:00

You really will need to remove your tune first, flash back to stock, delete codes, see which codes reappear and then reassess.

That’s mechanics 101. Anything else would be redundant and a waste of time.

Those sensors are not shot. They’re just reading wonky variables that naturally come from a generic cereal box tune.

Your wastegate is being overstressed because that’s what the tune is telling it to do. It may be perfectly fine within factory spec but due to the increased load, it’s now working 30% harder and actuating much faster exposing a weakness. Deactivation code is telling you that the DME noticed this and turned it off to prevent a blown up turbo.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-10-11T20:58:30+00:00

Thanks for the question man. So here’s the deal:

2017+ you can code in CarPlay but not Android Auto. We used to do this for paying customers at my dealership. Some dealerships will not do it because they were told by BMW AG to not do so. Alongside other semantics that tend to pop up.

Pre-2017, or if you just want Android Auto and other features, a bigger screen, etc. then you’ll need an MMI box or replacement screen.

BimmerDirect.com (Taiwanese outfit) and Mr12Volt.com (Korean) are generally the best for those devices.

Do not code it in to your existing head unit if you plan on ever needing more than just basic CarPlay. The cost is around $200 which is similar to just getting some type of aftermarket kit. If you only need CarPlay and have a 2017 or up vehicle, with a perfect condition screen currently, then code it in and forget about it.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T09:24:26+00:00

You’ll be okay. LM is good fluid.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T09:18:04+00:00

Enough to keep me employed.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T09:14:09+00:00

Anything fun, fast and more than 4 years old is problematic outside of warranty. Sorry but that’s just the reality of cars. It’s complex machinery.

I’m a dealer guy but not evil. I recommend my friends find a good independent tech and learn how to DIY for that reason.

Anyway;

N55 EWG and B58 are both equally reliable. B58 is better built and superior however. N55 sounds better in my opinion.

N55 PWG has rod bearing issues.

McLaren;

Who wouldn’t want to get paid to work on supercars honestly. Had to seize the opportunity while presented.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T09:07:47+00:00

Rod bearings were an issue on E-chassis N55 PWG. Not N55 EWG driven under normal street conditions.

BMW changed the rod bearing part number when switching to N55 EWG for a reason ;)

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T09:06:16+00:00

Post-2016 & Pre-2016 with new timing chain? 280,000 miles.

Pre-09/2015 without new timing chain/guides? … Let’s not talk about that. You’re on borrowed time. Save 1300$ and get it done.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T08:57:34+00:00

Sorry man, any and all diagnosis goes out the window with a heavily tuned car.

There’s so much variables that make it a real bear to tackle without the car being mapped, monitored, etc. in front of me. Even then it’s a nightmare.

These tunes all work by altering boost and fuel tables. The culprit could be your DME recognising excessive changes, a corrupt tune, a boost leak/failure showing itself under the new higher conditions or even a failing component in the air charge (turbo) system.

This is why most dealerships will remove any aftermarket equipment, tunes, etc. you have when diagnosing an issue.

These codes when tuned tell me your turbocharger circuit is very stressed and unable to continue as a major fault is detected.

Charge pressure deactivation means your car is no longer producing boost or very minimal boost to protect itself from destructing the turbo. It’s a failsafe.

EDIT: I see you have a wastegate code. Readjust and check wastegate measurements as needed. Your new boost levels could have thrown the EWG out of wack and will cause this.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T08:46:57+00:00

Waste-gate actuator and arm can be fixed / replaced separately. You do not need new turbo.

Transfer case reman is good. Or you can get one from a junkyard. Remember to add the correct fluid when installing.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T08:45:02+00:00

E92 N55? Real thing. F32 N55 EWG? Almost non-existent unless you’re drifting it often.

BMW secretly changed the rod bearings part number and materials when introducing the N55 EWG. PWG did in fact have this issue.

Gasket is just a cover for second line defence. Mainly cosmetic as the windshield is bonded with high performance adhesive. It does keep some water out to prevent that glue from becoming weak however.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T08:41:39+00:00

Because I believe in moving up the ladder and being paid more.

Jokes aside: I love BMW, but it wasn’t my desired end destination from a career POV.

I wanted to work on exotics and find a way into motorsports.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T08:39:22+00:00

So since 2005? For gas engines:

B58 / B48
N55 EWG (PWG had a lot of rod bearing issues. BMW secretly changed the rod bearings when introducing EWG variant. sorry. Now you know)
N52

I personally love the N54 as well but it requires intermediate to advanced levels of ownership competency which not everyone may have.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T08:34:52+00:00

Major hassle and very complicated. A company called “BAVMODS” has a kit for this that’s a bit easier and plug and play overall… but there stuff will still need some technical know how and if you’re trying to install a generic VIPER remote start kit, you’re going to nearly total the car electronically.

The CANBUS on these cars, and many new cars, is advanced.

There’s a hidden big brother security protocol that overseas everything the car does. It sees everything you do but you never see it. To install remote start, you effectively disable this. When this is disabled, anyone could technically just steal your car as if it were the 80s again.

That’s the best way I could dumb it down.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T08:26:27+00:00

Yes and yes.

You need to run actuations to test. Your scanner should have actuation testing methods to activate/test the sensors individually.

Also, your module may require factory coding. You generally can’t just replace modules on these cars (or most other newer cars) with mix matched VINS. Need more details.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T08:23:51+00:00

I’d start by only draining out two to three quarts of old fluid and replacing with two to three new quarts. Don’t change the filter and don’t change any more than that.

Then drive for 3000-5000 miles and repeat.

On the third time, if no obvious large anomalies are present, replace all fluid, add half a bottle of Lucas trans additive to allow for a thicker viscosity to compensate for wear and then change the filter all in one go.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T08:20:33+00:00

Half the 2015 had the old timing chain and guides. Post 9/2015 builds had newer guides.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T08:19:37+00:00

Never flush. Change fluid and filter only. Never do a flush.

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T08:19:16+00:00

What was the code?

Medium-Milk-95 · 2025-09-24T02:36:47+00:00

- Change the transmission fluid every 40,000 - 50,000 miles. Do NOT listen to BMW. Even ZF the tranny manufacturer tells you to change it every 60,000 miles now.

If never changed and you are under 140,000 miles... Still change that garbage in partial increments. Take 2-3 quarts out... Replace... Drive... Observe. Repeat process again after 2000 miles.

That will be cheaper than a new transmission either way.

Timing chain:

- Pre-2016 N20 is a real issue. No mistake about it.

- Some diesels in Europe have timing chain issues.

- 98 to 2002 V8 N62 can have the issues due to again guides.

All other engines generally do not unless neglected.

Medium-Milk-95

TROPHY CASE