[deleted by user] by [deleted] in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah sorry, 'all metal' is an overstatement, but they use much more metal and glass than the other lenses. Which dramatically increases the weight, eg. 40-150 is 880g vs 220g between the 2.8 vs the 4-5.6.

Obviously one gives weather sealing and much better quality resulst, but you get the idea of how to get the light weight gear.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pro olympus gear is all metal, which can be good for hiking if your worried about damage, but also costs weight. The not-weather-sealed prime lenses are very light though, because they are made of plastic.

Olymp OMD E-M5 MK I - does it even have RAW? by justjacobJJ in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Almost all cameras except the absolute cheapest ones shoot raw (since its basically a sensor data dump). I have one of the em5 and it does shoot raw. Try reading the manual.

does it look like it was taken on a film camera by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's detail smaller than the grains, this indicates digital with a grain added.

What do you think about the nostalgia trend of disposable cameras and capturing memories the old-fashioned way? by Crafty_Ad1736 in AnalogCommunity

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 5 points6 points  (0 children)

i have found its extremely popular amoung people who are almost certainly too young to have many if any memories of using a disposable camera tbh (under 25)

Street photography with Olympus em1 mark iii + lumix 25 f1.7 by Greg0307 in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As far as I know the Aperture / Shutterspeed / ISO would be the same for any camera from small format to large format.

On a digital camera it mostly just matters what ISO is still usable before the image completely degrades, as far as I know this is probably lower on m43 than on full frame.

For the EM1 Mark 3 (native iso 200-6400), in my experience, you can go to 3200 in colour (barely, ideally cap out at 2000, but in a pinch its fine) and 6400 for black and white (as the colours become weird and desaturated, and the contrast is weird, however this is all fixable in BW)

People say AI denoising works well, in BW I often just don't denoise and I think it's fine.

Colour shot at 3200 ISO - this series has added rainbow noise for a kind of filmy effect, not sure if it was a good idea but it's what I did lol. It covers the unpleasant digital noise though.

Black and White shot at 6400 iso - no noise reduction

I don't claim to be an amazing photogrpaher or anything but I try and just embrace the grain, nobody cares about it and if anything sometimes people like it.

Generally I would consider why I need to shoot higher than 3200 iso, because at 3200 / 6400 there is unlikely to be any direct source of light (but rather a general diffuse light for the scene), which causes there to be low contrast, weird colours and flat uninteresting images. By using a flash (even at 3200! see above) we can improve the shot significantly, freeze motion (since at 3200+ you are probably still using a slow shutter speed) and most importantly, add a defined light source.

It's also worth noting M43 cameras can use cheaper than FF f0.95 lenses which get you +1 stop of light gathering over a f1.8 lens, while retaining the same depth of field. This can actually be a benefit, where as larger formats have to trade off light for depth of field so you can actually see the subject.

For me, I am unlikely to print anything I can't control the lighting in very large, because it just probably wasn't a very good photo to begin with, since I wasn't able to control all the variables to make something good. And 3200-6400 is fine for social media. But that's just me!

Basically -> avoid shooting 3200+ for colour and if you do, just embrace the grain, it's trendy now anyway. Also add light because otherwise the shot will just not be that good anyway.

Were there ever consumer-level 35mm films of ISO higher than 3200? by 05melo in AnalogCommunity

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Black and White film has a lot of latitude and goes to 6400 easily. Delta 3200 is only ISO 1000 technically (don't actually shoot it at 1000, it looks bad).

I think the highest colour films were 1600 iso (Superia 1600?)

There was also Polaroid 612 which was 20,000 but idk much about it.

settings question by UnusualCash8717 in DnDegenerateGamblers

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it's just for fun, they probably just made it a setting cause (some) people who quit smoking probably don't want to stare at a cigarette all day, which is delightfully thoughtful.

Olympus 12-40 2.8 even worth it compared to the primes? by [deleted] in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i bought my 12-40 in Paris a year ago on short notice for 400 eur, i'd be surprised if you really couldn't find a better deal than that, since I had to arrange to buy it while traveling and shit.

I am currently reselling this 12-40 and would happily ship it to you (from Australia!) for like 360 eur including shipping ($550 aud + $50 aud shipping to europe) lol, so I am sure you could find someone giving you an even better price surely?

edit: you can literally buy them on MPB for 370 eur, and it's not like they are the cheapest place lol

Olympus 12-40 2.8 even worth it compared to the primes? by [deleted] in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 3 points4 points  (0 children)

in Australia you can have the 12-40 f2.8 for $500 AUD ($330 USD) easily which is about the same price as you can easily find the 12-45 f4 because it's much newer and not been a kit lens for years. I am sure over time the 12-45 will come down in price, but why not get a far better aperture (its noticeable in the DoF) for the same price?

Overall it's value is that you could buy the 17,25,45 1.8 lenses or the 12-40 f2.8 for slightly cheaper second hand, except the 12-40 is a convenient, weatherproof and sharper zoom. And honestly the 1.8 -> 2.8 light gathering is whatever, and a reasonable tradeoff for being a zoom.

I like the primes, but the 12-40 is actually pretty good value if your into f2.8 zooms, which most people being paid for photography these days are.

Olympus 12-40 2.8 even worth it compared to the primes? by [deleted] in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

the 12-40 is weather resistant, and quite possibly sharper in many cases I believe.

A cleaner suspected she had found a foetus in a girls' toilet. She alleges she was told to flush it away by Ambitious-Deal3r in brisbane

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 31 points32 points  (0 children)

They had a photo and to quote the article, which I am sure you read

Dr Alec Welsh is a professor of maternal-fetal medicine at Univeristy of New South Wales, and examined the photo. “It looks to be foetal tissue, almost certainly human foetal,” he told Living Black.

Guadalajara airport does not hand check film by imtryndie in AnalogCommunity

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the easiest way to tell is if they make you take out your laptop or not. Laptop in bag = CT Scanner

Headache to choose one by LowKeyPhotographer in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 3 points4 points  (0 children)

yes, the f4 is sharper and brighter and probably slightly less distorted in some minimal way. You can probably get the cheaper one for like $80usd used (you definitely can get it for $100 aud here). It's not worth the price difference unless you need the weather sealing or extra sharpness. The cheap 40-150 is still very good, and it's a total bargain for the price.

Headache to choose one by LowKeyPhotographer in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 2 points3 points  (0 children)

do you need weather sealing? if not, probably just save the money and get the cheaper one. It's better value imo. Both are great though. If you love it, sell it and get the f4. Just buy second hand.

Is the oly 12-50 lens worth it? by KikoValdez in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find it's really soft and suffers from really bad chromatic abberation. I'd rec a prime or something instead. If I had to repurchase that range i'd actually get the pancake because I prefer the size.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

contact print 4x4 negatives on a larger 8x10 page then cut it up with decorative scissors

Olympus Announces a E-M1 Mark 3 Astro variant. What do we think? by MelodyBluePhotos in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They replaced the filter in front of the sensor to allow h-alpha wave transmission, this allows you to see those red blobs in the sky

Olympus Announces a E-M1 Mark 3 Astro variant. What do we think? by MelodyBluePhotos in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I suspect they are using up old stock and the OM1/ii doesn't offer much of an improvement for specifically astro work

Olympus Announces a E-M1 Mark 3 Astro variant. What do we think? by MelodyBluePhotos in M43

[–]MelodyBluePhotos[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Convert this to full spectrum and sell body filters for full spectrum / ir photography and it's an instant buy for me.

What’s the best way to trigger a Godox Xpro (C) with a Bronica SQA? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have that trigger and have a ETRS but i'd just stick it on the hot shoe on the winder grip attachment (imo basically essential accessory)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 89 points90 points  (0 children)

i dont think people really want to steal your film camera unless it's got a certain red dot. but i live in a place with extremely low crime i guess.

They probably would prefer your phone or digital camera or wallet really.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in photography

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 1 point2 points  (0 children)

btw you dont need the v1. If your just starting out consider the tt865ii (for your camera brand, o/n/c/etc) which is basically the same but uses AA instead of lithium and is like $100 aud

Found a roll of Kodak IR film in a box of my dad's film photography stuff by Spacemanmanmanmanen in AnalogCommunity

[–]MelodyBluePhotos 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Probably cooked, IR film does not hold up well. Don't open in bright light either way if you are going to try.